its not BENT yet, the seat is about 2" to the side at 1’ or so away from the frame
I beat the crap out of it though, if you did what I do to my uni… you would expect worse. (I kicked it down a 21 set once… on accident)
i bet my rolling hops arent good for it either
if I got it done it would be for free, and even then, your seatpost tube has to have a clearance of almost nothing to work correctly, and the weld may interfere with that.
im sure, im not sure how to make it visible in a picture.
the seatpost tube is getting tweaked to the side, leaning, and I MAY be able to twist ita tiny little bit.
true true
but on the idea of the design… the reinforcer ring thingy creates lots of friction and it actually may not break out of the frame when the weld breaks for several reasons. The weld will not break cleanly when it breaks. it will have jagged edges and not come out instantly, and depending on what trick you do, it may or may not come out the instant that weld bends straight or breaks off. it will be caught in the reinforcer tube. Then you can anhillate your torker!
If I understand this stuff right (which I don’t, that’s why I’m in college), the reason the older frames snapped is because they weren’t very solid where the seatpost tube connects to the frame. Since the tube was only welded to the top of the frame, it could go under more stress when being used than a frame that was made properly (tube goes through the frame and is welded to the bottom as well as the top). This stress, over time, caused fatigue in the joint which eventually cracked and snapped off. Right? (someone knowlegeable please correct me)
I think if your tube is bent you just bonked it out of strait and it may still be strong enough to last a long time. If the joint is as solid as it looks in that cut-away picture then it shouldn’t fatigue nearly as quickly. Does it have any cracks?