If I recall correctly Nurse Ben said a 32 would fit in an oregon frame but I could be wrong on that (it’s been a while). Maybe someone who’s running a knard in their 29 frame could tell you what the outside diameter of it is and you could compare that to your 32.
My only two data points are a 26" Nimbus muni frame and a 29" Qu-Ax something. (It has flame decals on it but nowhere near as bitchin’ as yours. :)) I was surprised to see out how little the difference was in tire clearance between the two. I swapped the wheels between them just because I liked the colors better that way.
So based on that I’d say not with all of them–probably not with a lighter duty “XC” 29" uni, better chance with one designed for fat tires like Shmolagin says.
And yes, you should enter it in a hot rod show. Absolutely!
Just FYI, yes, 4mm x 6mm is the size of the shift button set screw, so now thanks to McMaster-Carr (box of 25 for $5), I now have 24 more than I need. If anyone needs one or two of these, send me a PM and I’ll send you a couple in the mail. I have never used these before, so I will never use up all of these in my forseeable lifetime. (Hey, they even have a little thread-locking patch on them!)
I just measured my round crown 29" Nimbus MUni frame and it’s 385mm’s from the center of the crank spindle to the bottom of the crown. For reference my 32" wheel is 395mm’s from the center of the spindle to the outside of the tire. So it is a no go by about a centimeter.
It may be possible to grind the frame to give some room, and to shim out the bearing holder to add some more space. The shim would be a bit complicated since you can’t just add some sheet metal without reducing the bearing seat diameter. I don’t know if you could get the full clearance needed with just grinding the frame.
Still, the brakes would end up in the wrong place. I don’t think you’d have enough adjustment with the Maggies.
Thanks for the detailed reply, jtrops. So it looks like we stick to the 36r frames until purpose-built 32s come along. Cool.
Could you use your CAD/CAM resources to do some “poor man’s frame extenders” along the lines of what Saskatchewanian did here?:
That’s a really cool idea. But it is also uglier than your current setup. 
I’m guessing, by evidence of his Schlumpf spoke adapter rings, that Lance could come up with something that served the same purpose but looked a lot more trick, if he wanted to go that way.
That’s actually a pretty cool idea (Saskatchewanian is full of those). I’ll get right on that with thinking…
Ha, those frame extenders worked quite well as a temporary solution but I definitely wouldn’t want to do that long term, and yes they are ugly.
My 2007 KH29 frame has a 391mm crown height, so also a no-go for the 32. I think that the crowns have been lowered since then but might have been raised again on the newest frames to accommodate the new Surly tires. I haven’t been paying that much attention to the new frame changes the last couple years. I believe the 29x3" Knard is around 31" diameter.
Machinist needed
This conversation made me think of my mc handlebar risers.
Fairly hollowed out pieces like that might work.
That would do it!
First ride
I finished fabricating the brake mount adapters today and installed them. They turned out pretty nice, the brakes fit to the wheel perfectly, and there is still adjustability up and down, and in and out.
There was still some daylight left, so I took it for a ride. My opinion so far: I love it! It has the maneuverability of the 26", maybe even more, since it’s got a narrower street tire, vs the 3" Duro I have on the 26. I’m guessing the ride is like a street 29r, but that’s just a guess because I haven’t ridden one. It mounts easily. In general it resembles the smaller wheel more than the 36r.
For comparison, I rode it over to a nearby parking lot that has a pretty steep hill that I often use for practice. I can make it up on the 26 easily, even multiple times, but I can only make it up about 1/2 way on the 36. I made it up fairly well on the 32. Not as easily as the 26, but not that hard. I think the 26 has the advantage there because of the longer muni cranks (165mm). I opted to start out with 150s on the 32 because I wasn’t sure how well I would deal with the Schlumpf.
The Schlumpf, on the other hand, will take some getting used to. I managed to ride it around the neighborhood a bit in high gear, but it is definitely a different experience. I can’t shift on-the-fly yet, but I’ll work on it. Like pretty much everything else unicycle-related, it will take some practice.
Overall, I’m pretty happy, and glad I made the decisions I made on the project. I’m looking forward to taking some long rides in high gear, hopefully keeping pace with my wife on her bicycle. (I could do it on the 36r, but I would be pretty much pedaling at top speed all the time.)
So if you’re thinking about a 32, I recommend it, although it takes some work to implement.
I’m having a hard time visualizing your brake adapters. Maybe a photo is in order?
I haven’t really been interested in a geared uni hub in practice, but in theory they have always intrigued me. Your uni is making me rethink that. 32" may be just the right size for a geared uni even with the large step. Hmm… Too bad it’s 48 hole rime and a 36 hole hub. If only the Schlumpf was 32h. Maybe it’s coming down the pike.
Here’s a photo. Disclaimer: I’m not a machinist, and my apologies to any on the forum that are. This would look a lot better if done by someone who was good at it. I will disassemble them this week and paint them black, I think that will make them look OK. I would have done that already, but I wanted to test the fit and functionality first. As a point of interest (and for the benefit of anyone thinking about doing something similar), this is the second version of the design. The first one fit OK, but I realized when I installed them that I should have compensated for the width of the wheel. This wheel is narrower than the wheel the frame was designed for (I’m not sure exactly what that width is, but I think muni wheels tend to be wider than road wheels). When I first made the adapters, I lined up the new mounting holes directly beneath the original locations. The result was that the brake pad, when extended, barely reached the wheel’s braking surface. So I went back and put in an offset. (This means there’s a right and a left, which is slightly less desirable than one that works for either side, but that’s life.) Now they fit fine, grip tight, and have room to be adjusted in and out. (I’ll post a picture of the 3D model when I get back to my work computer tomorrow. That shows the detail much better.)
Here’s a view of the whole thing, too. I posted it earlier (before I finished the brake adapters), but I just wanted to point out that the red ring around the hub is a 36-to-48 hole adapter. That’s one way of dealing with the spoke number mis-match. Others have simply laced up the wheel while skipping every third spoke hole in the wheel. I’m sure it works fine, but I’m the obsessive/compulsive type.
What is your brake line wrapped in?
It’s a silicone tape I picked up at a car show. It doesn’t have any adhesive, but when you stretch it and overlap it, it sticks to itself like crazy. It becomes like it’s all one piece. They were selling it as an emergency repair tape for hoses, and stuff like that. Works pretty good for this use, also.
I’m wondering if you could get the same effect with regular electrical tape, or if that’d start peeling pretty quickly.
I like the idea of adding color to your brake lines. 
I imagine you could get pretty much the same effect to start with, but I don’t know if it would last very long in the elements. One thing I’ll say for this silicone stuff, it is tough!
I just looked it up, you can get it on the internet (like pretty much everything else on the planet). It’s a little pricey, but it performs as advertised.
Thanks for the link Lance. Looking for something a bit brighter.