The great Giraffe Project: Part Two

Attached is an image consisting of the giraffe with it’s proposed powdercoating color, as well as images of the hardware i’m slapping on this bad boy.

2 Bulletproof Chain Tensioners ($20)
Maxxis Hookworm ($16)
Odyssey PC pedals ($11)
Velo Freestyle saddle ($48)
Lasco Crank Arms, Black, 170mm ($25)
Odyssey Seat Post Clamp ($5)

Total price is going to be upwards $125 for all the goods (really it’s that saddle that’s killing me, but what can you do).

Anyway, i wanted to ask if this is a good idea. I’m not sure if the Crank arms are going to work out… I’m not sure how the sprocket connects to the crank arm. Do you think that a crank set from those torker giraffes would fit on this? I’m going for an all black with green frame thing going on.

Thanks for any feedback!

Re: The great Giraffe Project: Part Two

that is one fine looking machine
i would say something about envy but i think the metaphor would be instantly belaboured…


your selection of crank arms will not work. the top sprocket is welded onto the cranks. it might be a better bet to have the cranks that come with the giraffe painted or powdercoated black.

a KH standard (with handle) sure helps when doing (and learning) running mounts as I have found over the last few weeks…

sweet machine. just be sure to keep the tensioners tight and the tire full.

I don’t think the Bulletproof chain tensioners are going to work very well. They’re designed for fat beefy BMX dropouts. The tensioning bolts will slip right off the skinny dropouts on a giraffe.

A traditional chain tensioner design similar to the stock chain tensioners will work better.

Or maybe, just maybe, the Redline chain tensioner from It looks like it has a cradle on the back side to keep the tensioner bolt from slipping off the skinny dropout. You’d have to take a look at one to see if it would work well or not. I also don’t know if it is designed to fit a 14mm axle or a 3/8" axle. Unicycles are usually the 3/8" size.

ive been scouring the earth for a set of pedals like that. (usa) seems to be the only place in the world that you can get them.

you cant get them in scotland, germany, england, monreal or torronto.

and i realy dont want to have to pay the import duty on a set.

and your going to put them on a …girrafe?

some people dont know their born.

p.s, if anyone actualy knows where i can get a set in the u.k. i’d realy like to know where.


looking for some place like this?

i’ve got bulletproofs on both of my giraffes, and they work great. I also thought that they might not work due to the skinny dropouts, but surprisingly enough, they do (and a lot better than those crap lollypop type that come stock)

the hookworm tire is really sweet though, what type of tube are you going to use (i reccomend a thorn-resistant) ?

I have the Bulletproof tensioner on my mini giraffe and they don’t work so well. The bolts keep slipping off the skinny dropout. I’m gong to switch to some other chain tensioner one of these days.

I have never had any problems with the basic lollipop style chain tensioners on my Schwinn giraffe. They stay tight. They never slip. I don’t see how the lollipop style tensioner can go wrong. The only thing “wrong” with the lollipop style tensioner is that they don’t have much style.

Ok… Since i know that this Crank arm thing won’t work out… i had another idea but i’m nor sure if it will work. Help me out Giraffe Experts…

Would it be possible to buy a new Crankset , intended for a bicycle, and put that in my giraffe?

Example: Would this crank set, along with this chain wheel, be able to fit inside a savage frame? If not, What are the specifications to what will or will not go in there.

Not only is this an alternative to just painting the stock crankset, but it’s even ultra-pimpin’.

yep, a bicycle crankset will go on a giraffe. you don’t need the new axle though, just the crank arms and chain wheel. you probably wouldn’t want to use THAT particular chain wheel as it has 36 teeth and the chain wheel on the wheelset only has 28 (it’d be WAY fast)

you’ll also need a crank puller to pull the stock cranks off and then put the new cranks on the same axle.

(a torque wrench also helps putting the new ones on, but isn’t necessary and some loctite is always a good thing to have around)

John Childs, I have bent those lollipop tensioners so badly that they wouldn’t work anymore and stripped the threads off because I like to keep my chain REALLY tight so that I don’t have any slack. If you’ve never had any problems with them, more power to you, but i’ll stick with my bulletproofs

btw, what kind of mini-giraffe do you have?

A couple things go take into consideration with using a different crankset.

First is sprocket size, the top and bottom sprockets should be within a couple teeth of each other. In fact, having a minor difference in tooth count is a good thing because the tire will self rotate and you won’t end up with un even wear.

The other is probably a minor concern but make sure the chain line works out.

You would need a new axle only if you converted from square taper to splined.

Thanks alot, guys. You’ve all helped me out more than you can imagine.

I hope that sometime in January you’ll see “The Giraffe Project: Part three” with pictures of the final product. (ooh! I’ll be the Envy of all the forums! :D)

I have a red
Fleet mini giraffe

It’s a fun little novelty unicycle.

I have a MUni giraffe that is about 5.5 ft high. It started out as a Savage 6 ft uni but that was a long time ago. The MUni giraffe is equipped with 175mm Primo cranks and has a 38-tooth sprocket up top and a 39-tooth bottom gear made from an aluminum GT sprocket. The tire is 26 x 2.3 Tioga knobby. In the beginning, the chain tensioners got bent when hopping. Now I have a set of BMX type Primo tensioners on there that are about 3x as thick as the stock ones.

Advice for the Lasco cranks, don’t count on them. Under stess, they will break.

I just had my MUni giraffe upgraded by Rick Hunter and then powder coated yellow. I’ll try to post some pics when I get my camera fixed.

Have fun up there.

There are two different bottom bracket size standards. There is an European size that is a smaller diameter and a larger diameter size that has a name that I can’t recall at the moment. Anyways, there are two standard sizes out there and you can’t fit a big bottom bracket in a frame designed for a European size. I don’t know what size bottom bracket is on a Savage giraffe. So… I don’t know if that crankset will fit on your giraffe. Depends on the size of the bottom bracket.

Are you planning on gearing up your giraffe? The chainwheel that you linked to is kind of big which would result in gearing up your giraffe to a larger effective wheel size. How many teeth are on the cog on your giraffe? How many teeth are on the chainring?

Some of the BMX folks are now starting to use smaller chainwheels for flatland and for street. The smaller chainring gives them more clearance. They’re using chainwheels with around 25 teeth along with rear cogs with 9, 10, or 11 teeth. That combo gives them a similar gear ratio as the more common larger chainwheels and larger cogs. The good news is that we can now get smaller high quality chainwheels ranging from 23 to 30 teeth. Cool!

Links to some of the smaller chainrings:
This one has sizes from 23T, 24T, 25T, 26T, 27T

This one has 25T, 28T, 30T, or 33T

This one has 25T, 28T, 30T, or 33T

In addition to looking cool, these chainwheels will be nice and round so you won’t get slack spots in the chain (assuming that the cog is also nice and round). Chainwheels that aren’t perfectly round suck on a giraffe or on a singlespeed bike like a BMX bike.

You may have to use a chainwheel adapter to get the BMX chainwheels to fit on the giraffes crank spindle.

You will have to find out what size chain is on your giraffe. There is fat chain and skinny chain (I don’t know the exact sizes so I’ll just call them fat and skinny). Some of the chainwheels will only work with the fat chain because the chainwheel is so thick. You’ll need to find out what size chain is on your giraffe and make sure it will work with the new chainwheel.

And then there will be the issue of making sure the chainwheel and cog stay in alignment with the new stuff. If the chainline is off then things are not going to work well. This could be tricky. It may be possible to adjust the chainline up at the bottom bracket. Depends on the design of the bottom bracket.

Your best bet is to take your giraffe to a local bike shop that knows their BMX gear and have them upgrade it for you. They’ll know what parts are going to work and what won’t. They’ll know if you need a different bottom bracket to keep the chainline in line. If they know their BMX parts they should know what they need to know to get your tricked up giraffe to work. It will be more expensive than if you bought all of the parts mail order, but it all should work in the end. There are a lot of details that you need to know to make sure that everything will fit and work together.

Oh, and the Profile Imperial chainwheel is also available in sizes from 24T through 46T in one tooth increments. It’s available in black anodize or high polish silver.

DansComp link
ProfileRacing link