the future of uni-racing

I just got back from a ride on my newly-built 700c unicycle with a high pressure (100 psi) road tyre and am truly amazed at the ease of handling and speed control.

If you’ve never ridden a 700c unicycle, I highly suggest you seek out someone in your area that has one to try it out! They’re amazing!

JFoss, I’m pleased to hear that the IUF is considering changing its races to 700c and I am looking forward to representing the contingent that would welcome this change at UNICON this summer.

Are they considering “changing to” or “adding”?


According to John Foss, In his post on the “crank length at UNICON” thread

“The intent is that 700c will eventually replace 24” for the championship races. "

you can find the thread here

Great reference; thanks hopeful!

You’re welcome. Will you be going to UNICON this summer and representing the contingent supporting 700c racing?

You probably have a much nicer 700c uni than I do, and I’m interested to see what people will be riding with tyre + crank setups

Currently, I’m using an old (read: too toasted for MUni) Schwinn hub on a really old steel raleigh england 700c rim on a 1976 Schwinn frame with a viscount saddle with only 1 bolt holding it in place and 5 inch cranks

I might build a frame before UNICON, but maybe not. I will definetley do something about the saddle (probably air conversion + epoxy to seat post) and I will buy shorter cranks.

By the way, I keep stripping the rectangular part of my spoke nipples off of the round part of the nipple due to overtightening. As I know you have the Strongest Coker Wheel in the World, do you have any suggestions of how to keep my spokes tensioned without this happening?


Make sure the spoke wrench fits snug and also use some kind of lube on the spoke threads and at the nipple/rim interface. I just built another wheel on saturday and I was going to purchase some linseed oil for the spoke lube, but I never got any, so I just ussed 3-in-1 oil like I have been doing in the past.


Mojoe’s right. Especially where the nipple meets the rim. Also be sure (for this particular wheel) that, if you strip a nipple, to replace it with a brass nipple rather than an aluminum alloy one.

The other thing to do is to make sure your spoke tension is as uniform as possible. If you are trying to do all the work with one spoke, then that spoke will be tensioned too high and more likely to strip.

No I won’t be able to make it to Unicon. Maybe to Nationals, though.

Thanks! Time to rebuild the wheel, then. Might as well, seeing how I’m reforging the frame too.

Great to hear. I’ve been considering making a cheap 700c uni for riding to uni on. :slight_smile: Do you find the bumps in the road, etc to be much more noticable with the thin, high pressure tyre? That’s my only concern as I don’t think I can afford a KH seat for it. I’m going to track down some old road bike forks, rim and tyre and go from there and a friend is doing the same.


you probably aren’t stripping the nipples due to over tightening, but not using the correct size spoke wrench.

It may ‘look’ right, but there is possibly a tighter fitting spoke wrench you should be using

Just a thought

andrew, the only problem with using old road bike forks is the bearing attachment question. how to do it? I considered buying main-cap bearing holders from and epoxying them to the frame, but then, how would I know if it was straight. still haven’t tried it yet, but maybe soon.

The bumps in the road are not very noticeable, but you’re going fast enough that it dosen’t matter much anyways. I was riding on a viscount/schwinn seat which I recently tore the cover and foam off of so I could replace the seat post bolts and will be converting it into an air saddle.

good luck with your project. we should post pics of our “recycled” unis when they are built. (i’m doing some fun stuff with an old schwinn frame. more on that later)

Sofa, I’m not “stripping” the nipples, per se, what is happening is that the square section is breaking off of the round section and leaving me with half a nipple on the spoke. Thanks for the help, though.

One way to make a unicycle frame out of a bike fork is to use the Miyata bearing holders. Flatten out the end of the fork so it fits the Miyata bearing holders. Drill and tap holes to hold the Miyata bearing holder on the fork.

Miyata bearing holder

Take a look at the Miyata frames. See how the end of the fork is flattened. Do the same to a bicycle fork and you’ve almost got a unicycle frame.

You may have to straighten out the bicycle fork.

I saw a muni made this way. I think it was at the Lake Tahoe “California” Muni Weekend.

If he doesn’t happen to jump on this thread on his own, you might ping Tellurider (Dan Wilson) on this topic. Seems I recall he’s built a number of nice unis via the straightened bike fork approach.

John, Tom… Thank you. I am much appreciative of this advice. (I was thinking about putting the Pashley bearing holders into the frame after cutting the bottom)

I kinda like the bent-style frame and the fact that it’s already got brake bosses on it. Thanks for your help.