Firstly, I have to say that that crazy old man who made my bearing holders tricked me! I suppose I should’ve check at the time about the price but he gave me thwe strong impression that the cost would be $60AUS. When he rang today to tell me they’ve been done, he told me the whole thing would cost $130. That’s $60 for each bearing holder and $10 for the spacers I got him to make for my hub. When he gave me a quote he said it would usually cost $150 but since I’m young and was paying in cash I could have them for $60. I’m positive that he didn’t say $60 each and my mum said he didn’t either. Oh well, there’s not really much I could do about it.
I’m generally happy with them and they look really nice but I’m worried about two things. Firstly they weigh quite a bit. I suppose I’ll adapt to having a pretty heavy unicycle and what it lacks in light-weightness (or something like that) it makes up for in strength and beauty. I’m talking about the unicycle here and not only the bearing holders.
Also, I’m not sure about fitting the bearing holders onto the hub. As you can see in the photo I’ve attached, there are these cone-shaped things that come with the Profile hub. Do they have to fit inside the bearing holders or will they be alright on the outside? Am I right in assuming that they’re just used to keep dirt and dust out and so on? If they weren’t in the bearing holders they’d still remain stationary because there are heaps of spacers to add with the cranks.
These bearing holders remind me a lot of someone elses but I can’t remember who. Can anyone help me out? I know whoever it was posted some pictures of them here.
It’s interesting that this guy that made my bearing holders made an extra set just in case my friend (a unicyclist) wanted any. This make me think that there can’t be too much work involved in making them and that I was charged a lot and possibly too much for them. We’ll see.
It’s still looking as though I’ll have the whole thing done before Christmas. If it does get finished before then, I’m planning a muni adventure on Mt. Cootha with a few other unicyclists that I’ve recently met (that’s you Wayne).
I’m no longer eagerly waiting for Christmas but for the days before Christmas when this project of mine will hopefully be complete (it’s not a Christman present).
those look really nice.
some people use those cone-shaped spacers, personally, i d’ont. It doesn’t make that much of a difference, and i think they’re secifically for the bikes they’re intended for, just that they come with all cranks. If i were you, go put them on your wall as decoration or something, you d’ont need them.
i c’ant get over how nice those bearing holders look, it’s a shame the guy didn’t follow through on his initial pricing:(
oh well, i’m sure you’ll be happy with your end-result.
Nice. Looks like it was machined from a shaft collar. Steve Howard posted a gallery that shows him making a bearing holder from a shaft collar. Christopher posted a link to a supplier for shaft collars.
I don’t think you were ripped off. The shaft collars are about $11 USD ($20 AUS) each from the above supplier. Yah, things like that tend to be spendy unless you’re buying lots of them at a time. With the additional machining getting them for $60 AUS each is reasonable. Custom one-off machining generally isn’t cheap unless you’re Greg Harper or Steve Howard and do it yourself.
Is there a lip on one side or both side of the bearing holder?
I really like the idea of making a bearing holder from a shaft collar. Simple, effective and strong but just a tad heavy.
Sorry to rain on your unicycle parade man, but you got robbed.
I work in a machine shop as well as run machines out of my garage. from what i can see your bearing holders were machined on a lathe to create the proper ID and OD. they were then cut in half then the flats were added on a mill. all this would take any bonehead that can run a machine less than an hour. if they are made from aluminum the material cost shouldn’t have been more than twenty bucks for the pair. a hell of alot cheaper if they are steel.
i’d bitch at this guy and throw a brick through his shop window. with the money he hustled off of you he could afford to replace it, so you shouldn’t feel any guilt.
once again sorry. but that’s part of the fun in building customs. i’m personly working on a 100% aluminum 20" trials frame right now. i’m machining the seat tube and bearing holders. the rest of the frame will be constucted from a few peices of 16 guague 6061 sheet aluminum. cad program is calling for this frame to be under two pounds. Finite element analysis shows it to be very stiff everywhere. i’m making it to fit a profile hub and crankset with a monty tire mounted on one of the new arrow rims.
if all turns out well i hope to make about twenty of these and get rid of them for about two hundred bucks. i can promise a better frame than th KH20, plus it will look cool as shit and offer the option to add maguras if one so desires. i’ll probably make a twenty four inch frame as well.
to answer your questions about unicyles not having to be quite so strong…
all the force of landing drops or gaps, horizontally and vertcally are absorbed by the wheel. your uncycle only has to be strong enough to absorb the force of you butt slamming against the seat which creates a compressional force. compressional forces are the easiest to counter. (ie. it’s really hard to squeeze a cyinder or tube of any shape end to end and deform it) other then that your frames only purpose is to hold your seat to your axle. so as long as the steel can handle a force larger than the force you can apply when pulling on the seat to jump or gap then it can do it’s job.
in a regular boring two wheeled bicycle the frame must be able to support the suspended wieght of the rider between the two wheels.
That’s a relief about those spacers because the bearings fit really snugly into the holders with no room to spare. Would there be anythign wrong with just putting them on the outside instead of completely removing them? If they weren’t there wouldn’t the bearings get dirty?
We seem to have some mixed feelings here as to whether or not I was ripped off. Either way, thanks for the comments and I’m not going to whine about the cost anymore because it’s all paid for and so on now. Those frames sound good. Please post some pictures and reviews when they’re done.
Thanks for the links, they were the ones I was talking about. Are your bearing holders quite heavy?
Also, am I right in thinking that I’ll get used to a heavy unicycle?
Have you thought about collating all the posts and relevant discussions about your quest for a muni together? I’m sure loads of people have been following it from the beginning; I think it’s great to see it finally coming together, so you must be over the moon!
I’d imagine it could be an extremely useful read for anyone else who wants to get a unicycle but doesn’t want to just order it in one go, including your design decisions, the problems you had to face and how you got round them. It’d also be a quite compelling read for anyone else, too…
i can see semper uni’s point about it being cheaper to make them yourself
if u baked your own bread or made your own hamburgers…
bottom line, this guy isn’t some bonehead who can run a machine
he’s a professional and hung his board out to do stuff like this and make a living from it
naturally there must be a mark-up and as a bonehead UNable to run a machine, i’m happy to pay for it
he made a profit, sure
ripped him off? i think u r being a tad harsh
andrew, u may want to make a habit of wrapping simmilar discussions up with the question “and the final, total price will be $xyz? is that right?”
just a thought
They were very expensive BUT
Don’t forget the guy has to set-up the machines to do them, he probably has to pay buisness rates too,
then there’s the rent of the workshop
then he has to eat too.
you’re assuming the bloke didn’t have to break-down whatever it is he normally runs on the machines and then set it all up again.
He probably cut them on a horizontal mill which would take time but leave a better job than a hack-saw.
and there’s drilling, tapping and countersinking.
my bearings get a bit dirty, but i’m pretty sure they’re sealed becasue i’ve been using this set-up for a while and they still run super smooth. Also, if they do get a bit of grime on them, just run a paper towel over them, and they should be fine. all shiny. So, if you really want to run the angled spacers, go ahead, but with those nice machined spacers the guy made you, and all the spacers that they come with, i (personally) d’ont see the point. Good luck with getting the frame made up!
That sounds like a great idea to collate all the threads to do with my custom unicycle. Heaps of people have said a lot of really helpful things that could surely help out other people looking to do something similar to what I’m doing. The response to all these questions I’ve had has been great and I really am over the moon.
I’ve definately learned my lesson about asking for a final cost. I’m not too worried anymore about how much I payed and wasn’t ever really accusing him of ripping me off, I was just asking because I don’t really know how much things should cost. He really did do a good job.
Thanks for the advice. The frame should hopefully be done by the end of the week.
This morning I ordered my rim, tyre, stiffener plate, and video (now One Tire Guy because Universe was sold out in PAL format) from the nice people at unicycle.com. It’ll all be here before Christmas and because I work at the bike shop I’ll have access to all the tools (and instructions if I have any problems) I need to build my wheel, it should all be done before Christmas. It’s looking like I’ll be able to go on the muni adventure on Mt. Cootha that I’ve been talking about.