T-bar discussion thread


I thought it might be useful to have a thread about T-bar setups, since there’s a lot of ways the stock T-bar can be adjusted, plus there’s many modifications that could be done (e.g. using alternative, custom built “T” sections).

Personally I have 3 setups on the unis I mostly use:

  1. No T-bar at all, for pure technical downhill (North Shore) riding on my 24" muni.
  2. T-bar in a low, short position, with the brake close to the saddle, for everything else offroad, on my geared 26er.
  3. T-bar in low, fully extended position for gravel and paved road riding (e.g. on my 36er)

For #2, the lower position means I can lean forward onto the handle even though it’s short, and the short position means I can keep stable and pull up hard on the handles over bumps while keeping hold of the brake. I used to wish I still had the brake lever mounted under the saddle handle for technical riding and drops, but since using this setup I actually prefer it where it is for most conditions.

I cut the T-bar width narrower (to 120 mm) so it doesn’t bump my knees in the low, short position, and the excess T-bar tubing is cut off. The slotted tube is flipped backwards (clamp towards the rear) to allow the shorter position. The T-bar is angled up, with the bar-ends slightly down, to move the bar-ends closer to the brake lever.

Attached is a photo of #2. This is in a really short position; often I might move it maybe 10 or 20 mm further forward than this. The bar-ends in the photo are Carbon and have since broken - currently I’m using the standard spec bar ends.

I don’t personally have experience with putting Tri bar style elbow rests on the T-bar, instead of bar ends, but I know some riders like that for really long distance riding.

Anyway, it would be cool to hear your thoughts and see what ways people prefer for their own setups.



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For Muni, I really like a straight bar with a slight curve to the right. With the slight curve, my brake lever is slightly angled so it’s easier to grab. I hold it with my left hand and prefer this set-up to the flimsy plastic handle even on technical terrain. There is also a slight upturn but I will take pics of the handle that Bryce welded for me and post it later.

I always thought the T-handle anchoring system could be used instead of welding it to the rail adapter but the handles Bryce makes are VERY bomber :smiley:

The T-bar is a great handle, and fully adjustable, but a while ago I modified/added to the stock kh handle, using the profile T2+ aerobars. It has made a WORLD of difference in comfort, without compromising handling at all. At first, mounting was a little trickier, but now it’s as easy as with the T-bar alone. More riding positions as well. Highly recommended! :smiley:

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I think they do affect handling. I’ve found that slow, tricky maneuvers are more difficult, or at least different, with the extra weight. It definitely is a noticeable difference to me when I have the aerobars on or off, but mainly just when I’m turning into/out of my driveway.

But I agree completely: Highly recommended! They have become essential gear for long distance rides for me.

The weight isn’t really noticeable to me, at least not as much as the rotational wheel weight, and the aerobars are actually very light, so they don’t add much. As for maneuvering, I can negotiate turns pretty much the same with out without them, or maybe I’m just used to them by now.

If the turn is tight I usually hold on the the auxiliary bar ends that are turned around on the outer end of the T-bar. I use these for mounting as well. If I was going to ride offroad or something other than smooth paved roads, I would take them off, and maybe even the KH handle as well.

i’d like a “all for one” version, i cut the thing which holds the T-bar and drilled a hole closer to the saddle , so i can reach the brake lever from the normal seat handle… (but not very easy, thats why i’m making a longer lever extender… not ready yet), but i like to ride all mountain with some cross country in it but also some real technical downhill in the same ride…

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I have several T-bars on my various unicycles. The most specific (or perhaps surprising) use is on my racing uni, i.e. my Qu-ax 26 x 1" which conforms to the IUF “standard unicycle” definition. All good race unicyclists hold their uni somehow, mostly by the front of the seat or by an integrated handle if the seat has one. I have found that this posture doesn’t work very well for me. I cannot grab the seat handle with both hands because then my hands are too ‘wide’ and get in conflict with my legs. Putting one hand on top of the other, as most racers seem to do, solves the conflict but didn’t work very well either, because the grip is not firm enough. So for the last Unicon I mounted a T-bar, adjusted such that the two bars are as close to the seat as possible (for a firm contact), but just without the hand/handlebar/leg conflict. The adjustability of this thing is very nice!

Here is a picture of my set up.
funny thing is i didnt take the picture. someone from school took the picture and through mututal friends on facebook, i was connected to it. i thought it was kind of cool. you can see it but it is ulocked to the bars. = ]

My T-bar is set up on my Coker Big One with a 2010 KH Street saddle.

I just extended the length of my T-bar by using a straight “T” from a Nimbus Shadow handlebar (the “T” alone is $20 at UDC US). This extended the handlebar out about 4.5" or 115mm longer than the longest setting for the standard KH T-bar. I’m tall with long arms, and found the extra length to feel very natural and comfortable. I didn’t perceive any lack of stiffness from the extra length. Note this is with a 2009 T-bar; the 2011 is going to be ~70 mm longer. Good move, Kris. Even so, someone who wants maximum extension could still gain some length by switching out with the Nimbus “T”.

The Nimbus bar is also a little wider than the KH. I’ve run the KH short before on my 29er for trails, and found that it’s too wide, because you hit your legs on it in UPD’s (I like Kris’s setup cut narrower, and will probably do this for my 29). However, when stretched out far from the saddle on a 36, hitting your legs on UPD’s seems to be less of a risk, at least for me. I’m liking the handle a little wider for two reasons: I think it’s helping my stability when holding with both hands; and the extra width gives me enough room to mount two headlights and a bell (on the KH I could only fit one light and the bell).

Although I’m liking the add-on of the Nimbus “T” in the KH T-bar base on my 36 setup, I still like the KH T-bar overall better than the Shadow handle (although I admit I have not tried one). The adjustability of the T-bar just can’t be beat.

Forgot a couple comments: For rougher dirt rides, I might still swap out for the shorter T. However, today’s ride had lots of bumpy ice, mud, and deep muddy icy puddles (fun!). I intentionally held onto the long handle through some of the tougher conditions, and was surprised to find I didn’t have any problem with it.

Here are my two setups, one short for muni and one long for 36ering:

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Maybe I should add some explanations to my picture:

I replaced the stock bar ends for round ones on both setups so I could put some grips on them.

On the 26er I got straight ones that are about 2 cm shorter than the grips, so in a upd there’s some suspension before the actual metal parts hit the ground. For the same reason my brake lever is mounted further back and pretty loose.
So in a upd I don’t have to worry about my uni that much anymore.
I also shortened the boom of the T-bar, by the way.
When going downhill I usually grab the T-section part of the bar (which I covered with foam grips) with my right hand and use the middle and ring finger for braking with the spooner. My left hand sometimes flails around when going through difficult terrain or it holds onto the left bar end for some addad stability.
This setup has been going strong for quite a while now, so I can really recommend it. It may be a bit narrow for people with bigger or thicker hands, though.

On the 36er it’s pretty much the same except that I use the longer bar ends that bend inwards. They’re not too tight so in a bad upd they can turn and absorb the shock somewhat. I think I pulled the bar out as far as possible on this one and it could still be a tad longer for my taste.

I have a T-bar on my 24" muni (with brakes)
position is low and rather extended. why that: because I feel more comfortable in a chimpanzee position:p (specially when going down I have my arms in a very low position in front of me). I don’t feel comfortable grabbing my saddle (I have a long torso).
this said when things get technical I don’t grab the handle any more (too much arm waving in front of me: still in a “chimp” position).

my solution:

an other option:

Hey turtle! Your above setup looks really great to me!!!

Quick question: did you design and make the grey extender yourself, or did you find it off-the-shelf?
[EDIT] You said earlier on: “i’m making a longer lever extender”… I guess this is the one shown above, right?

Also, did you keep this setup, or did you give it up after a few weeks/months?

Cheers, MadC.

perfect timing, yesterday i posted in another thread my prototype (second pic is how i used the kh T-bar the last months which worked perfect!



it looks very interesting but what about jumping ? the first solution seems better (?)



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Yeah, jumping is no problem, well that is unless you land poorly :roll_eyes:

I’m just not into the double hand position for muni, a single hand works best for me when I need extra control/power. I can ride ambidexterous, but what I find is that if the trail is easy enough for two handed riding, then I can ride no hands :slight_smile: