Suggestions

Hey,

So I’m still in the process of learning how to ride my uni, but I can feel that pretty soon I’ll be ready to move away from my learning zone and on to bigger and better things.

That’s what this post is about, my next unicycle. Currently I am riding some POS 24" that I purchased at my LBS. It is fine for learning on, but I know that once I start doing anything other than just basic riding… it’s going to fall apart on me.

It’s time for me to start looking at getting my first “real” unicycle, something that will last a while. I’m a big guy (6’4" and like… 250lbs) and bke parts have a habit of enjoying a short life span when I use them. Basically, I want something tough and beefy. Weight really isn’t an issue (I’m used to climbing hills on my downhill bke) but obviously the lighter the better.

I am still not sure whether I am going to get a 20" or a 24"… probably a 20" as I think I will enjoy riding street more than riding muni, at least at first. One of my LBS carries Kris Holm unicycles, and currently they have both a 20 and a 24 in stock. So, one of my questions is, will a KH withstand the abuse that I will be putting on it? I realize that if I am smooth and controlled, it will do fine… I just have to get smooth and controlled first.

I would really like to buy a KH if I can, as Kris is a Canadian, and I would like to support a fellow Canuck :smiley:

So yeah, will a KH be able to handle abuse? or is there something else I should be looking at? (i.e. a surly or something)

Thanks

A KH will be perfect for you, they’re extremely strong, I think the only thing that could suffer from you weight is the rim, but they’re cheap, like $40USD. Also, if you get a 24 and use if for MUni, I suggest a Surly Large Marge 24" rim, then you will rarely break anything.

Yeah, I realize that parts will bend and break. I can deal with replacing rims… I just don’t want a cracked frame, or bent cranks, etc.

cranks aren’t an issue (never heard of any breaking or bending, from people of your weight doing 10 foot drops, etc). I have only seen two cracked frames, and those are older 2005 ones that have been beat to all hell. Frame strength in a unicycle is not as important on a bike, because most forces are spread through the wheel. Welcome to the one wheeled brotherhood.

You meant to say frames not cranks right?

If so I agree, frames very rarely break, even cheap ones, your wheelset and cranks are by far the most strength important component.

ya, I meant frames, I’m tired for some reason, just one of those days. I doubt you’ll break the cranks either, they’re pretty beastly.

Ok, another quick question.

I’m still pretty new on the unicycle lingo, and as such have never heard of the term q-factor.

Is it something I need to be worried about?

Better yet, what is it?

q-factor is (how I explain it) the distance between your feet on the pedals, less Q-factor, the closer your feet, the less of a bend in the cranks. Many bicycle cranks are farther apart and have more q-factor. KH cranks have 10mm Q-factor on each crank and 100mm on the hub (as with basically all unicycles) so you have 120mm spacing in between you feet. It helps so you don’t hit you ankle on your crank. Some people like it, others don’t. I think the KH cranks are just perfect for me.
correct me if I’m wrong kington, I"m unsure.

No you’re pretty spot on, although I’m not sure about the exact measurements. Genreally a higher q-factor gives mroe control but is slower as it causes you to wobble. Conversley less q makes for a faster smoother ride. The q actually stands for ‘quack’, as in how much your feet point out like a duck.

ok, I was right, there’s a first time for everything I guess. :stuck_out_tongue: