Stripped saddle handle nut...

I cross threaded and screwed up one of the holes for the handle on my kh saddle. I tried to fix it by running a bolt through from the other side… didn’t work.

Can I retap it? or am I hosed? I guess 3 bolts is still o.k.

How difficult the repair is kind of depends on how old the seat is. On the newer ones, the seat cover comes off fairly easily. If that’s the case, loosen the cover and pull it back, pull back the foam, and replace the nut that you have just exposed. If you epoxy it in, it may be less likely to push out when inserting the screw.
If the seat cover is stapled on, you can still do the repair, it’s just somewhat more of a hassle to remove and replace the cover.
Re-tapping would be hard, I don’t think it would work very well.
This is the fallout from trading the earlier exposed screw-and-acorn nut arrangement they used to use for the current buried-nut-and-blind-screw insertion. Less exposed hardware, but repair/maintenance is harder.
Good luck!

This is one of the newer saddles. It has the big metal chunk in it that has the 4 ‘nuts’ that connect the saddle to the seat post as well as the 4 ‘nuts’ that go to the handle. I say ‘nuts’ because they are just threaded holes through the big metal piece. If I knew how to weld I could just cut off the threaded part and tack a new nut onto it, problem solved. … but I don’t weld.

You might be able to drill it out and attach a new nut using some sort of epoxy. (maybe J B weld)

I like Shmolagin’s idea about drilling it out. For the nut you could use a Rivnut with the right threading but install it from the inside of the saddle. Rivnuts have ribbing that keeps them from spinning once they have been swaged into place. You could use a bit of epoxy on there too if you just want to be sure.

Here’s what it would look like from the underside after the rivnut is swaged:

Ah yes, the rivnut! Of course!

Didn’t know something like that existed, looks like it will work.

I took a closer look at it, and there is a nut insert that is tack welded in, I cut the welds with my dremel and it popped right out. It was a nice recessed area so I decided to go with the epoxy-a-nut-in-there method. If that doesn’t work I will look into the rivnut idea.

Now that I think about it I don’t think you can load a rivnut backwards. The force would pull it back straight.

From the way you described the base it seems like a pronged tee nut would work. You would just have to drill a hole for one of the prongs to resist turning. Then just bend or clip the other prongs. Follow that with a bit of gorilla tape to hold it together during assembly. Masking tape would probably be sufficient.

Three thoughts:

  1. Someone mentioned JB-weld. That stuff is machineable/tappable. If you filled the hole/threads leaving just a bit of good thread on the back side of the nut (if there is still good thread), then carefully drill it out and start the tapping from th eback side so the JB is only really filling the mis-threaded parts, that might work.

  2. Helicoil? If you can find the right size/threading.

  3. If the nuts look like the ones on my saddle (from your description, they do), there is enough metal that you could drill out the threads and re-tap with the next bigger size. You’d have 1 mis-matched saddle bolt, but who really cares?

Thanks for all the ideas. One of them is bound to work. Since I cut out the tee nut I’ll have to bond something in for sure. I have some super industrial strength epoxy I haven’t tried yet, supposed to be as strong as steel.

I tried using epoxy to glue a nut in, but there isn’t enough to hang onto so it comes loose. Old epoxy I think.

I’m gonna see if I can hunt down a rectangular tee nut tomorrow (basically the same part I stripped out).

I’ve been kind of wanting to learn to weld anyway, this might just be what I need to give me a little push to do it. Seems like an easy enough job. :smiley:

My Fusion Freeride only has one bolt on the rear bumper. I stripped the other one years ago. It’s on a MUni so I drop it hard all the time. No worries. The savings in the weight of that “extra” bolt helps keep my KH29 the lightest of my fleet;)

Well it’s fixed. I picked up a M6 Tee nut from the hardware store, It was a round one, so I cut it with dremel to match the bolt I cut out. Luckily my dad gave me some industrial strength steel epoxy, mixed a bit up and glued the nut in, good as new :slight_smile: