Stripped cranks & isis hub

Like a fool I took off the cranks of an isis hub wheel and forced it back in with a hammer, then tighting with the bolt.
Problem I see metal shaving everytime I clean the cranks. Are they slowly stripping? Can I do something. How much is a 29er wheel complete with hub and cranks. :angry: :o

Sorry for the threadjack but is it possible to strip moments. Also do they sell replacement inserts for them.

What hub and crank set are you using? Are they Aluminum cranks, like I am picturing?

Here is my view on aluminum cranks - some facts, some speculation. They can be pretty solid and strong when made to be, tho you still have aluminum splines. Whenever you tighten the aluminum cranks onto your steel hub the aluminum fatigues first. The more you take them on and off the more mashing around you are doing to those (soft) aluminum splines.

Now say you are out on a ride and your crank is a little bit loose, just enough you don’t notice for a bit, or worse don’t have a tool with you. Those aluminum splines are taking quite a beating and eventually the shape of the splines will be ever so slightly different from the shape of your hub.

This is not a huge issue as the ISIS design is tapered so the cranks will just have to get tightened a micro amount further and it will be tight again. However without the original fit of those splines it is going to loosen up again much quicker this time. This will continue to happen more and more until they loosen every ride.

The same thing can happen with steel cranks, but it is much more subtle and can be fixed by over tightening(in my case).

I think everyone is pretty happy with the Moment cranks, tho I know there are a few out there that are starting to experience the downside to aluminum splines in general. The fact is for people who ride a lot and cant always get to their tool the exact moment they feel movement in there cranks are going to experience less than perfect results in the long run. Whether this a big issue to them or not is personal preference.

Why do you clean your cranks ?

Giving tapered cranks a few good thumps with a hammer, before putting on the bolt, is a good idea. It distorts the two parts to have a much larger area of metal contact, otherwise, tiny high spots will hold the metals apart.

Assembled with grease, they should stay on unless you need to change them. Properly installed, there is no movement or wear, no need to disassemble and re grease etc.

Rotating cranks may help the rim last longer, so that you are not always dropping on the same spot. But a price will be paid in spline wear. The splines will last forever if it’s put on right, and left there.

Hey, I was riding recently when I noticed a slight click(not audible) on my left crank when riding, which I accounted to a messed up pedal. Later that day I broke my pedal and switched pedals and still found that I had a click on my left side. My friends dad told me that my click was from a stripped crank, which I found was true. So he then told me to rotate my cranks and that that should take care of the problem and it has taken care of the problem so far. My question for you is there anything else I should do to help aleviate this problem and keep it from reoccuring?

I don’t have moments,

But what tool do I need to tighten my cranks to my hub. I’ve never known to do that. I haven’t felt my cranks come loose, but I have stripped them before.

If you’re using this Isis bolt then you need an allen wrench.
Your cranks should be fine if you have never taken them off or if they have never come loose.

I’ve only ever taken them off to get new ones.

Also, will that allen wrench tight the crank? I thought I might have to use a tool similar to a crank puller.

That ‘this’ is not an isis bolt, this is isis. I made that mistake 2 days ago. Luckily, I caught my mistake just after placing the order and UDC corrected things for me.

ISIS Cranks Striping

I was wondering weather to do tire rotations or cranck rotations to solve the problem of tire wear in one spot. I actually wrote to Kris about this issue. This is what he had to say.

“As long as you put a little grease on the splines and line them up strait and don’t over tighten them you should be able to take them off and put them back on hundreds of times without a problem.”

I rotate the Moment cranks on my KH20 2007 and KH24 2007 every two months (I have owned the 24 for almost 2 years and the 20 for a year and a half) and I see no wear on the splines. The 24x3 Duro is almost completely bald by now but with very even wear due to the rotations. All my fellow riders laugh at how bald the tire is. I will change it to the new Arrow Wide bite 224x3 a couple weeks before ELSBET. Many times new splines will have some shavings left on them from the manufacturing process. This does not mean that you have stripped them. I use the ISIS crank puller to remove the cranks and only tighten it up with the Allen wrench until it is snugg and then maybe an extra eight of a turn. If you over tighten or give the crank a few thumps with a hammer you runt he risk of “squishing” the splines.


Wohoo :smiley: cant wait till youre here and we will rock the trails!

off topic (sorry):

wow, we’ll be really international this time? that pushes us even more to make a great event… :astonished: :smiley:

I had to do this to put my crank back on before… K1 140mm (Aluminium). I used the hammer approach and just smashed up the thread inside so I can no longer take it off with my crank extractor. Not good.

Ok, so my cranks still stripped(rotating only helped for awhile). Soooo… is there anything short of shimming that I can do to fix it?
Could I also get a link to a good tutorila on shimming?

I’ve heard of putting solder between the gaps. I know nothing about it, so do some research, it might work.

Is it possible to deflate my tire and rotate it while it is still on the wheel. I really dont feel like taking it off. Its so annoying. Everytime I take the tire off I scratch paint off the rim.

Just use these. Their plastic so they won’t scratch the rim or you could remove the cranks and rotate them.

Plastic will rip through a few coats of spray paint too. lol

Its easy to deflate the wheel and twist the tire. Just hold the valve so the tube stays in place. Fill it up just a little bit so you can reposition the tube first, then pump it up to your usual pressure.

Thanks both of yall. Those tools look handy and jerrick ill try what you said.

Stripped at pedals?

Hey, I have kind of a follow up to this:

I have a Nimbus 29’er, basic aluminum ISIS cranks. I got it back in September and have been riding it about 5 days a week to work since then.

For the past several weeks, the right pedal has been loosening up as I ride it. I’ve taken to carrying the appropriately sized wrench in my backpack so I can tighten it up whenever it loosens.

Two days ago, the left pedal started doing the same thing. I tightened it back up, got about another 20 feet, and felt it pop. I walked it home, took it apart, and the threads in the crank arm have totally stripped.

Anyone else heard of or had this problem? The guy I asked at the store where I bought the uni said it is a common problem when people put the seat on backwards, so that’s the first thing I’m going to check when I get home tonight (had to drive to work, grr). Any other thoughts? Should I shy away from buying the same cranks again? I’d think about getting something more heavy-duty, but I’m on a tight budget.