Ive picked out a Yuni 24 X 3.0 muni w/ a kris holm saddle off of unicycle.com


the only characteristic that people have recommended which isnt on this uni is splined hub/cranks

can anyone explain the advantages of splined hub/cranks and wut difference a splined hub/crank would make compared to one without it

its my first muni and i plan on eventually buying a new one, but not for atleast five years

Re: splined?

Splined is much much stronger and those cranks probably wont stay straight very long. But i wouldnt worry about it since it is your first real muni and you can always buy some new cranks. I’d suggest the bike euros for cranks, they are cheap and effective.

I’m going to respond because no-one else has, not because I’m the most qualified. To keep it simple, splined are like five times as strong as cotterless. There are, however a ton of variables that can impact this decision. I’ve been riding 3 years, and own the 24" Yuni. I’m just getting good enough to threaten it’s health. But I only weigh 160 lbs. and am not all that brave. I’ve bent cranks but not damaged a spindle yet. I keep my drops under 2 feet so far. I think I could drop further without too much trouble, but am worried about damage so will wait until I can afford a splined rig. My advice would be to enjoy your yuni as-is for awhile. Learn skills besides the typical hop/drop fare such as idling, backward riding, various mounts etc. and take it out on the trails a lot. Someday soon you’ll likely find yourself changing priorities and saving for your dream rig:D Welcome to a wonderful new world!

I’m 5’8", about 150 lbs, and do a lot of MUni. I’ve been riding for 10 years or so, and still don’t have a splined crankset. So far, no problems on my MUni (I think my Schwinn has bent cranks or a hub, but I still road ride with it).
I agree with Elmer’s assessment that splined cranksets are 5 times as strong, but do you need a top of the line computer if you are just going to check e-mail? Stick with tapered for now. You can upgrade later. The best riders in the world rode MUni for years on cotterless (and even cottered!) cranks before splined hubs became available.


If these are your stats, a square tapered hub will be fine until you start working on trials.

Re: splined?

This really does come down to a simple issue, are you likely in the next couple of years to be doing high drops, loads of extreme hopping etc; or are you going to be mainly riding around, with the odd small drop.

Plenty of posters here don’t use splined equipment, they don’t need the extra strength.

Check out this recent four page thread ( Splines vs. square tapers) : -


i’m 60 pounds heavier than the original poster, 185, and had rediculouse problems with the alloy crank arms. i support the steel euro crank arms, had less problems but can’t do anything over 2 feet. i quickly realized that i want to ride much harder than this muni can offer me and went for splined.

i agree with the others that you probably made the right decision given your weight and your level.

make sure you keep the crank arms and pedals tight and you will avoid problems. check them frequently and enjoy.


Consider banking $100 and going with this one:


It’s pretty similar to the Yuni (Nimbus2 and Yuni are the same frame).

There are some very good muni riders who ride non-splined mounts. There aren’t that many opportunities to break a hub on an actual trial. The hub gets broken on the 6’ rock next to the trail, or the concrete loading dock in the parking lot, etc.

I also own the aforementioned Nimbus.:smiley: It is a great machine for the money. I intend to spring for Kooka cranks soon. I am betting that with that upgrade it will take me as far as I have the cojones to go. But there IS a difference between that Nimbus and the Yuni frame sold on the U.S. unicycle.com site. The Yuni frame has smaller diameter tubing and may be less rigid, according to people who should know.