I got my coker frame back from the P. coating shop and when I went to reinstall the bearings on the axles, I couldn’t remember how the spacers went on. There are two spacers for each side, but I can’t remember whether they go on BEFORE or AFTER the bearings! So I made a guess and put the bearings on first, then attached the frame…seemed ok so far. Then I put the first two spacers on the right side, then installed the corresponding crank. Again seemed ok. But when I added the remaining two spacers to the other side, and installed that crank, which didn’t seem to go on all the way initially by hand, and as I tightened the bolt, it “pushed” everything up against the hub, rendering the wheel to tight to move! What did I do wrong??? Should I have put those spacers on FIRST, before installing the bearings? And now I have to take it back to the bike shop to have the bearings pulled off…AGAIN! Another $7.50! 
Sometimes you can gently pry the bearings off. I’ve wrapped a screwdriver with electrical tape and been successful.
What kind of hub? There usualy are no spacers on square taper hubs and the bearings come off of splined hubs usualy without a puller. 
Not sure, it’s just a standard coker hub. Since my first post on this subject, I fixed the problem!
My stock coker hub has spacers between the hub and the bearings.Without them the bearing would push on the hub flanges and it would all go pear shaped. I don’t think there are any spacers between the hub and cranks - it’s a tapered axle, so you don’t need spacers to stop the cranks going on too far like you do with splined axles.
Actually if your bearings on properly on a splined you need a puller to pull them off, think you need to fix your with the paper trick.
But as for a coker not sure