Is there or has there ever been a steel t handle available that is compatible with the shadow base?
Or am I stuck welding my own? (great except 7/8 tubing seems to be hard to come by round these parts).
Thanks!
Is there or has there ever been a steel t handle available that is compatible with the shadow base?
Or am I stuck welding my own? (great except 7/8 tubing seems to be hard to come by round these parts).
Thanks!
I’ve seen pics of people making them from old “razor” scooter handles. Not sure if they’re 7/8" or not, but you could check.
Online Metals or Aircraft Spruce. Gotta pay shipping but you get a choice of wall thickness and better metal than than the grotty stock at the home improvement superstore, even if they had the diameter you wanted.
Also, 22.2 mm seat posts are available up to 700 mm long. That’s 7/8". But no point if you’re just gonna cut off the seat bracket.
Those are aluminum, aren’t they? All the ones I’ve seen at least.
I thought the standard T handle that comes with the Shadow base was steel. It is certainly strong enough for the job. In my experience, the base itself is more likely to break than the T handle part.
Ask bike frame builders. They allways have rest pieces of theese diameters. I got a tube from a framebuilder with 25.4mm OD and 22.2mm ID which was nearly impossible to get from any steel seller.
T handles on my Shadow set are definitely aluminum, and I’d agree plenty strong.
I’m looking to weld up a rear rack using some 7/8" tubing that’ll slide into my shadow base, and have some kind of grating on the top that I can strap junk to.
Old MTB flat bars were available in lightweight CrMo. I have a specialized bar that you are welcome to if you want it. This one is 22.2 all the way, with no bulge in the middle. It does have some sweep, but that might work for you.
Unfortunately I just bit the bullet and bought a bunch of stock off ebay. Everything I needed for 25 bucks. The only potential issue I came across is that the thickest walled steel tubing I could find in 7/8 for cheap was .095. I did see Corbin post in an old thread that he was using .06-something so hopefully it’ll be all good.
If my sub-par welding skills come through, this thing is going to be sick.
+1… make that 2 (base replacements to date) i drop my KH36G hard and often.
I was gonna suggest playing the “I’m 19 and trying to learn about…” card. Half the time they’ll dig around and just give you something. Then I noticed that you can’t use it any more. Hope you had a good one.
Buying extra stock “just in case” seems to usually wipe out the savings of doing it yourself, doesn’t it? But it’s more fun having some stuff around in case you need it.
That’s pretty chunky if you’re talking tubing and not plumbing pipe. Plug it into the formulas and you can see that the ultimate limit, solid 7/8" rod, would only be 50% stiffer but would weigh three times as much. That’ll work if it’s going to work.
Have fun!
I practiced on a piece of tubing I found at work today while we weren’t doing anything. Reminded myself why I’m not a welder. It looked pretty good until I wacked it with a hammer and it broke right off. Of course this stuff was half the thickness of what I’ll be using for the final product, but still.
I’ll have to play around with it tomorrow and try to turn my welder up without blowing through the pipe (my biggest issue today).
I know I’m a bastard but I couldn’t resist.
I like it!
Just looked and the picture I took sucks. It’s a milk crate hose clamped to my t.
Are you… the Moonicycle Milk Man…?
Could you please post a more detailled picture of your t-bar?
I ended up taking the milk crate off. It was just too big and was driving me nuts.
This is the most detailed pic I have at the moment.