I want to put the Viscount that came on my Summit, which now has a Miyata courtesy of a Stealth Torker, on the Stealth Torker which lost it’s seat to the Summit. Obviously, the Summit post won’t fit on the Black Torker frame, but I have a Chrome Torker post which will fit the Black Torker (with a shim).
I know I could buy a shim to make it fit, but who wants to spend money on that. Not I. The only option (that I know of) is to soda can shim it. I have never done this before, so I want your input. What kind of can, how wide a shim, etc.
Also, I was wondering what you think about the United Saddles. I won’t be using it, but I was going to lend out a few of my uni’s once I get seats on them. Unicycle.com has the Uniteds at 3 for $19.
The quality might vary a bit. On my first cheapy uni, which now has been used to teach three people to ride, the bumpers are still on. A lot of wear but they are still well attached. On my second uni there also was a united saddle, but I changed it to KH a while ago. The seat didn’t take as much bashing as the other and it also holds up well.
I think they are great saddles for beginners. They are comfy enough and durable. But don’t consider riding longer distances than two miles on these.
That 3 for 19$ seems to be a really good offer. So, if you need the saddles just buy them.
Sorry to bring this thread back up, but I still want to know the answer to the question about the soda can shim.
To recap my problem, I want to put my extra Viscount seat on my seatless black Torker 2003 LX. My only extra seatpost that will fit the Black Torker frame is one from a chrome Torker.
I want to save a few squid, so I’m planning to use a soda can shim. Will a soda can shim work? If so, what width do I cut the shim and are there any tips to installing it?
Soda can shims don’t work well at all once you have to use two or three or more layers of soda cans to fill the gap. Soda can shims can work OK when the gap is small enough that you need just one layer of soda can material.
In your case you need to shim up a 22.2 mm seatpost in a 25.4 mm frame. That requires a thick shim. It would be at least 6 layers of soda cans (probably more). There is no way that 6 layers of soda can material will hold a seat post from slipping.
Spend the $10 for a proper 22.2 mm to 25.4 mm seatpost shim.
Thanks for the quick answer JC. I will look into getting the right shim. It’s either that or get a GB4 universal. What do you think I should do? This particular cycle isn’t going to see much use (by me at least). It’s more or less a loaner.
Using a shim can make the seatpost more likely to twist if you don’t have a good seatpost clamp. If you have a good seatpost clamp then go with the shim solution – it is the least expensive option. If you have a wimpy seatpost clamp then go with the GB4 seatpost solution – the GB4 seatpost with no shim will be less likely to twist or slip. With a good seatpost clamp the shim solution will be plenty secure and should not slip.
when i first read that, i couldn’t help but think of a sitcom plot-line
it seems like john sorted u out on your original query
i’ll add my two cents just for the hell of it
i use a sodacanshim (sounds like an alternative girlband, doesn’t it?) on the seat post of my giraffe
the seat posts they ship those things with are waaay too short so a friend of mine hacked it off and welded a piece of pipe on
he used the same pipe on his and it fit perfectly
mine didn’t touch sides
so, commando style, we smacked the frame around to close it around the pipe and finally gor a snuggish fit using a sodacanshim
we tore a strip about an inch wide and slipped it in
i’m not sure if it’s because of the extra force on a raffie seat but the shim is taking some strain and parts of it have actually worn thru
at some stage i’m thinking about replacing either the shim or the post