I have a 26er and have tried a few crank lengths…and yes, of course, what’s fastest depends upon application. I find 125s really good for cross-country, that kind of thing; longer cranks might be good for anything really technical but not for going faster than you could walk anyway (ok, maybe I exaggerate. Maybe!). However, they take a while to get you anywhere as on-road transport…110s make a really nice hybrid machine, and are probably my favourite overall; ideal for somewhat bumpy footpaths, easy trails, etc. But they’re longer than you really want for riding on smooth roads. I’ve tried 90s, and found the lack of control (in particular, braking distance!) meant that in practice my speed was no greater than with the 110s; if you had a brake they might be worth a go, but really I’d recommend 100s - they feel really smooth, and can go decently fast without being uncontrollable.
A good tyre really helps tho - I’d not want to try riding 100s with a 26*3" off-road tyre. FWIW I really like the Halo Twin Rail…
Currently I’ve got dual-hole cranks: 100 and 125. This is pretty awesome: ride fast to trail-head, then convert to XC mode, ride round, convert back again. (If only it didn’t take so long to change length!) However, there are times when 110s would still be better/faster - i.e. there is substantial terrain (here, anyway - Cambridge, UK - mostly bike paths) that falls inbetween what either length is really good for… I do really like those 110s!!
Acl, you’ve got me thinking. I’ve got 125’s on my 26" and have been thinking about getting longer cranks for muni, but considering your testimony, I could see myself enjoying even shorter cranks for road usage. Where did you get the 125/100 dual-hole cranks? They’re not the new Moment cranks are they? Those are only 150/125, right?
Indeed they are - though if you’re thinking you fancy some technical muni, those could be just what you are looking for! (I’d say better on a 29er tho).
My cranks were professionally “shortened” - I’ve got a Koxx ISIS hub, and started off by having a pair shortened down to 90mm (then discovering this was too short for me); then I kinda thought, well hang on, these cranks are so massively overbuilt, that if any cranks can take having two sets of holes, surely these can. Hence, I got a pair of 125s shortened down to 100mm, but told 'em not to cut the length down, just drill the hole…
Having a bit of extra crank on the end can’t make the short holes any weaker, of course, so in hindsight there was no point in experimenting with (properly-)shortened cranks before going for the dual-hole ones…
This was done by highpath engineering: www.highpath.net for about 40ukp.
A couple words of warning tho: firstly, the cranks (as do the KH ones) come with cromo ‘pedal inserts’; the extra holes I’ve added don’t have these, and in fact highpath (with years of shortening bicycle cranks) said they didn’t really understand why they were there: they regularly drill new (insert-less) holes in solid alu. cranks that are made of weaker alloys than the 7005 Koxx ones. And given the non-technical usage I’ll make of the 100mm length I’m hoping this is fine.
Secondly, the cranks are of course weaker than previously in the 125 position. However, highpath said tho that they thought if there was any weakness, it’d be for side-on impacts into hard surfaces (like tarmac), and I thought that wasn’t likely to happen with the pedals in the 125 holes (as for riding on tarmac I’ll be using the 100mm holes anyway).
I’ll try and upload a picture in the next couple days…
Got the UDC hub and a couple sets of cranks by UPS today. Sat down to get started on the wheel build this evening, which went swimmingly. I was feeling pretty good about it, and brought the uni in to use as a truing stand. Well, turns out that the new UDC hub is wider than when I bought my Nimbus. Darn thing won’t fit on there.
So I guess until I figure something else out (where to get a slimmer hub…?), I’ll just stick the shorter cranks on the fat tire and go with what I’ve got.
Wow…just went for the first ride with those 127 mm cranks (though as mentioned in previous post had to stick with fat muni tire). It’s definitely more of a work-out, but plenty of fun, too. I was pleasantly surprised when I headed through the woods – they handled bumps and whatnot just fine. I’m still not really used to them, though, so there was an uphill that I couldn’t make, and had trouble riding of of a hop. I ordered some 102’s at the same time, but will wait awhile before giving them a go. With any luck, I’ll be able to get a hub to fit this frame and use the 102’s on a street tire.
You are probably most seriously looking at the 102, 114, or 125 length. If you are a decent rider…go with the 114s from Quax. They are a quality product and you will find you have the leverage you need for control and the smaller and more comfortable spin you need for speed. I put these on my 24 before I got a 29 (which I ride with 125s). The 125s would be decent and you might be able to use them for some rougher trails than with 114s, but I’d think the 102s might a bit of a large jump from 165s for a 26".
(ok, maybe I exaggerate. Maybe!). However, they take a while to get you anywhere as on-road transport…110s make a really nice hybrid machine, and are probably my favourite overall; ideal for somewhat bumpy footpaths, easy trails, etc. But they’re longer than you really want for riding on smooth roads. I’ve tried 90s, and found the lack of control (in particular, braking distance!) meant that in practice my speed was no greater than with the 110s; if you had a brake they might be worth a go, but really I’d recommend 100s - they feel really smooth, and can go decently fast without being uncontrollable.