4) Greater security against slippage of the knurled bearing.
There is now a physical block (small protruding nub) on the bearing that prevents possible slippage of the knurled bearing side in the bearing housing. This requires that the bottom half of the inside edge of the bearing housing does not have a lip. All KH frames produced since 2012 are compatible. Minor modification may be required for other frame bearing housings.
To be clear my understanding is these nubs have to go on the edge as per the photo and then the caps clamp down and grip and squish then into the frame corner and cap. There shouldnāt be any notch else where.
Yes, your understanding is right (or at least my understanding of what you said ) the nub is keyed into the notch in the lip of the bearing housing.
From your photo it looks like you had the nub about 90 deg rotated from where it was supposed to be at one point which has caused the indent beside the weld, likewise there looks to be another indent about 10 deg round from the split in the bearing housing. The paint in the knurl is probably caused by the top-cap not seating properly given the bearing wasnāt sitting right rather than slippage ā that would be my guess anyway.
It should be fine once you put the bearing in with the correct orientation, if need be you can clean the notch up a little with a file.
I tried to find a picture of a KH frame with those edge notches but failed. Anyways I tend to believe those indents in the middle are caused by the mispositioned nubs. The curious distribution of them might be because there are some positions the bearing is more ācomfortableā to sit on, despite still being wrong positions.
I reinstalled the wheel to put the nubs into the edge notches. Interestingly, the nubs do not both sit in the notches at the same time, there is like a 5 degrees freedom for the bearing to rotate, until a nub is stopped by a notch.
Oh I must give it a check! Any idea why this is important? The hub design does not seem quite fool proofingā¦
By the way Iāll definitely look into the brakefast mechanism, it looks promising. But since I still havenāt gave up the thoughts of employing a titanium frame, which might be prone to disc rubs, plus I donāt actually use brakes on the road quite often (but I do appreciate them while muni-ing), I might go brakeless on this build.
No idea at all, and I agree it isnāt fool proof. This is probably why Iāve overly scrutinised the photos and posts and tried to absorb as much as possible so that its logic calmly sits in my mind. I think the UP position may simple be a way to ensure that the two nubs are at 3 and 9 oāclock and resting on the edges of the bearing mountsā lips.
This might be down to how theyāve been installed before or from a slipā¦ not sure, but my gut says in a fresh frame, youād have hard metal to engage with and thereād be no play or degree of moment possible.
Perhaps you can find a small chunk of aluminium that you could cut to fill the gap and glue in place?
Thatās if you stay with the same frame. New frame = no issues!
Going brakeless on unicycles probably should be more often promoted as while I obsess over all of this, my actual skill of using a brake is minimal at best.
Is it just me and my uni OCD that feels a unicycle doesnāt look complete without a brake?!?
However if you did invest the effort and money into a BrakeFast set up, thereās no requirement to run a brake straightaway. I just wonder if thereād come the day when you really wish you had it, and then rebuilding again would be a royal pain!
Going with brake on unicycles probably should be more often promoted
Honestly, I find you fool to ride a geared uni without a brake. IMHO, you give up a lot of responsiveness, some speed and a lot of fun. I consider the brake as a must-have. In particular, an inboard brake. Even if you donāt feel comfy with a brake, you should mount one so that you can train and get confident with it. Once youāll be confident, you wonāt be able to ride without it!
Iām thinking brakeless because I find myself spending way more time tuning the brake rather than using it. My OCD is the disc must not rub. From the information Iāve collected, this could be a nightmare on a titanium frame - or not, may be Iāll give it a try. Then again since there is still the disc mount on the crank, I might still want to install the brake!
Itās true I need to practice using a brake, and Iām doing it - with my muni. Until Iām confident with one, Iām more of using anticipation and precaution to keep me and my surroundings safe. Yes most of the time I ride rather slow, slow enough to make a Schlumpf unworthy, and only faster when Iām 100% sure itās safe to do so. Also considering Iām mostly riding in a plain city, I think brake is much less than a must in my case. Then again, I might still install one. Or not. Just thinkingā¦
Thatās a common argument I 100% disagree with.
IMHO, city riding is one of the most important use cases for a brake. It helps stop at traffic lights and stop signs and decelerate faster when thereās any danger. Of course, youāll steed have to anticipate and be cautious, but thatās a powerful safety equipment I wouldnāt ignore.
Sure. I tend to be in the āIām an experienced riderā point of view, so what I say may apply when youāre sufficiently trained (clipless goes brrrr)
Itās not the best photo Iāve ever taken, but the frame is totally fine. This is the only photo that shows the front of this frame in my album. I donāt have a chance to take a decent photo for it recently, and I dont want to keep @Unikev waiting
The frame was custom made, with dual brake tabs and cable holders. Titanium seat post and collar are also included. Itās actually a 31" frame so I can install a tire up to 29x3.5".
The pic in the 29th post is a 36" frame. It was lended to me to test if itās Schlumpf compatible (which is). The latest image is the custom 29"(31") frame I ordered. Both are with a 26" wheel as Iām still waiting for my 29" rim.
) the nub is keyed into the notch in the lip of the bearing housing.
