I just carefully put in the seatpost after cutting it (with a hacksaw), and let that action lessen the nasty edges. I won’t ever remove it again unless I need a new post, so it really doesn’t matter.
Seat post cutting
Buy two seat posts. With longer cranks and early caution your seat post may be lower and may be too short for your eventual height. As you improve and go to higher seat post settings due to developing skill and still higher due to shorter cranks, if you run out of seat post height, just have another seat post to hand. In fact there is a reasonable amount of adjustment, in any case.
Barry
I will definately keep the 114 in mind. I might even be convinced to give it a shot. 
There is some nice advice on this thread. Thanks to all.
Here is something you can try and it works…
Measure your inseam and set the height of the seat to your actual inseam. Measure from the bottom of the crank to the middle of the seat, not the top. That would be an ideal position to ride long distance. If you don’t feel comfortable, you sure have a good starting point.
Whether I’m riding my 36er long distances, or doing serious climbing during MUni, I have my saddle as high as practical to allow for near full leg extension, without my legs “locking” at the downstroke. Equals comfort, maximum efficiency and power.