Seat handle idea

Hey everyone, i’m honoured to make my contribution to the big wide, slightly eccentric world of the unicyclist.com message board. Anyway, back 2 the point.
I’m new to unicycling, and recently bought a 20"Pashley muni from unicycle.uk.com about 2 weeks ago. I ride muni and trials at the moment, and me and a unicycle friend r currently trying to emmulate Kris Holm with our slightly smaller (ahhhemmm) drop offs and wall rides.
So, all the hopping and stuff that i’ve been doing has lead to a very tired arm and painful aching fingers as a result of grasping the front of my viscount seat. I was concerned that my fingers, (which hurt for a number of days after a decent muni session), risked serious damage in the future eg arthirits etc. So, i tried cutting away some of the plastic bumper on the front of the seat, so that i would be able to fit 2 or three gloved fingers in the space. However, this proved insufficient, and the next day i was still suffering serious discomfort. Bear in mind that i have never had problems with my hands before, and have done ‘finger intensive’ sports alot before, eg Mountain biking, BMX, Street hockey, a bit of climbing etc.
So, what to do? get a miyata saddle?, no such luck, as everywhere seems sold out.
So, i think i need some kind of handle for the front of my seat, and having seen one for sale which bolted under the saddle, i become excited. However, i can only get it from the US, and it costs 40USD.
So i decide to make my own. Picture this if you will-

    An L bend bar end from a mountain bike, clamped to an aheadset stem which can be found on your decent modern mountain bike. 

The bar end is fastened to the stem via a piece of metal tubing, which i a cut off from a bicycle seat post.
The Aheadset stem is then fastened to the seat post of my Pashley, via the clamp on the stem which would normally hold some handlebars
The crucial link in this assembly is the cut off bicycle seat post. You will need to get one of the old stlye ones which tapers off towards the top to allow a saddle clamp on it. The overall length of this piece of metal is around 2 or 3 inches. 2/3rds of this should be from the larger diameter section of the post, and roughly1/3rd should be the tapered section, once it is all cut down. These sizes will vary depending on, well, everything really, bar end clamp size, stem clamp size etc.
You will need to experiment with all the components in the assembly, as the size of them is pivotal to their fitting together. Using a long aheadset stem, and a reasonable length bar end is important, as the bar end must protrude beyond the front of the saddle so that u can grip it.
The angles of this assembly are very adjustable, however, you will need to be precise if u r fitting it under a narrow saddle, eg. Viscount.
Maybe other people all know this already, or have better ideas of their own. I’ve only just built mine, using just a hacksaw and some allen keys, so i can’t testify yet to its durability, but in the garage it feels very solid providing you assemble and tighten it all properly.
If anyone else has any good ideas, or tries mine and has any comments, i’d love to hear from u.
If u dont understand any of my instructions, please reply too, and i’ll try to make things clearer. I’ll try to get a picture or something out to help you

And while ure getting to know me, a message to Skunker- I worship Jesus too

I like your idea for using an old fashioned seatpost - anyone with a
pre-Viscount-equipped Pashley will have one knocking around. I used a bit
of handlbar tube and a shim. I had a 130mm stem and it could have done
with being longer. I haven’t yet stolen the adjustable length Stoker’s
stem off our Tandem yet but that would be ideal if you could get one
cheap. Leo White

I’m having a bit of difficulty picturing this. a picture would be nice.
-David Kaplan

I can’t really picture this. Have you looked at
http://www.public.iastate.edu/~gbarnes/ I have one of George’s handles
on my muni and can thoroughly recommend it. It can be fitted to a
Viscount base and is much better than a Miyata front bumper for grip.
Obviously YMMV.

Arnold the Aardvark

“Arnold the Aardvark” <aardvark@NOTTHIStubulidentata.demon.co.uk> wrote in
message news:1010407963.2064.0.nnrp-10.c246aeec@news.demon.co.uk
> I can’t really picture this.

Alan, You tried out one like it at BMW3 but your saddle was too long. Leo

I made my own seat handle today at work. I took an exhaust pipe hanger, cut off the metal bar, then used quick steel to attach the handle style part underneath the seat. I then covered it in a thin layer of duct tape. So far it’s working real nice, I’ll try and get some pictures… still waiting for my Miyata.

> You tried out one like it at BMW3 but your saddle was too long.

Aha! Thanks.

“Leo White” <leo.white@tesco.net> wrote in message
news:rC0_7.3810$w71.374358@news1.cableinet.net
> I like your idea for using an old fashioned seatpost - anyone with a
> pre-Viscount-equipped Pashley will have one knocking around. I used a
> bit of handlbar tube and a shim. I had a 130mm stem and it could have
> done with being longer. I haven’t yet stolen the adjustable length
> Stoker’s stem off our Tandem
yet
> but that would be ideal if you could get one cheap. Leo White

How about if you were to use a long I think it’s a quill stem a la the
first one of these http://www.angelfire.com/ab3/malkmus13/stems.html

handlebar bit attaches to seatpost, giving you a long pointy bit sticking
out of the seatpost by 25cm, onto which you can clamp a bar end.

This would rely on bar ends having the right sized clampy bit, but
would save getting bits of seatpost or handlebar tube and screwing
around with them?

I don’t have a saddle here to measure if 25cm is long enough though oh and
I don’t know how easy a stem like that is to get hold of?

Joe