Sealed Bearing Muni Pedal Recommendation? And 2 other questions.

All,

I have 3 questions but the main one is this:

  1. sealed bearing muni pedals:

I’ve been riding off-road a bit with Chris recently and after one particularly muddy excursion, my unicycle (Hunter with Profile setup) was making some horrible sound. I don’t mean the Profile creak. Anyway, I discovered it was the bearings on the pedals. I had Primo Super Tenderizers on there, and the bearing had apparently become exposed and there was no lubrication in one and almost none in the other. I think one had rust. :slight_smile: Oops? I guess I should be more careful.

So I switched out the pedals to something cheap and plastic I had laying around and they are OK but I want to get some sealed bearing type pedals that would be suitable.

I’m planning to order from Unicycle.Com and at first glace the sealed bearing pedals I notice up there are these:

PrimoPro Pedals:
http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=515

Shimano MX30 Lightweight Platform Pedals:
http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=504

I am leaning towards the PrimoPro because they come in black which matches my unicycle, and they are cheaper.

HOWEVER, if there are some pedals that unicycle.com doesnt have that you really want to recommend, go for it.

So, what sealed bearing off-road pedal do you recommend?

  1. profile hub love and care:

Any tips on making sure my profile hub and cranks dont suffer from mud and water? What cleaning tips do you have? So far I havent seen any rust or problems with them but I’ve been a bit lazy recently and basking in the mud plastered on my Muni. Perhaps not a good idea.

  1. decent street cycle cranks:

What would be a good very strong set of black street cranks for a united trainer with a standard hub? I need new cranks for my street cycle, and new pedals too but I can go with plastic cheapies for the pedals. But what about nice cranks? Any recommendations there, while I’m at it?

Thanks for any replies!

Lewis

Are your current pedals sealed or unsealed? If they’re sealed you can just get new cartridge bearings and the pedals will be back in working order.

The Primo Pro pedals can take a beating. But they are not very grippy when things get muddy. If you plan to keep riding in the mud I’d go for pedals with more pins (especially in the center of the pedal) and something with more aggressive pins (the pins in the Primo Pro are kind of tame and smooth).

The Shimano pedals are very good, but if you’re going to spend $95 on pedals I’d go for the Atomlab Aircorps. I have a review of the Aircorps in the review section
<http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=21477>
The Aircorps are very grippy when things get muddy.

Just remember that sealed pedals need maintenance too. If you’re going to ride in the mud you’re going to need to clean and care for your pedals.

John,

I presume my old pedals ( http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=215 ) were unsealed because the close-up doesnt mention they were sealed. Those were the Primo Super-Tenderizers.

I have no idea what the cheap plastic ones are that are on my Hunter now (just temps until I order).

As for pedals, I’m hesitant to spend $95 on pedals, but I will consider the ones you said.

My old Primo Super-Tenderizers were plenty grippy for me. I have found that I dislike pedals with more sticky pins, I’d rather have milder behavior, because I’m at the skill level where when I want to come off the pedal in a hurry, with pins that are too grippy, I can’t do it. I’m not at the point where I can really leverage the extra grip from the pedal you recommend.

Hmm.

So, you say that I will have to maintain a sealed bearing pedal too. What exactly would I need to do? Would it be enough to hose them down and dry the pedals after a ride?

Lewis

Re: Sealed Bearing Muni Pedal Recommendation? And 2 other questions.

Keep the splines lubed with copper anti-seize. Put anti-seize along the entire spindle (even under the spacers) to protect from rust. Put anti-seize on the threads of the retainting bolt. The anti-seize on the retainting bolt threads makes it easier to get the retaining bolt really tight.

Keep the retainting bolts really tight. Keeping them really tight will help keep the cranks from squeaking. When tightening up the retaining bolts don’t tighten up one side really tight before tightening up the other side. If you tighten one side up really tight first you can literally pull the axle through the hub so it’s no longer centered. So get one side snug, then get the other side snug, then, and only then, you can start getting the retaining bolts really tight.

And there is nothing wrong with mud on the outside of a muni. There is nothing more pitiful than a perfectly clean muni pampered like it’s a show car.

You need to make sure the spindle stays greased. Riding through mud and water will wash out the grease. To grease the spindle you pull the pedal body off the slpindle, apply grease, and put the pedal body back on.

In the winter the spindle may need greasing every month or two. In the summer you can go longer.

You also need to make sure the end cap stays snug. The end cap is what keeps the pedal on the spindle and is also what keeps the sealed bearings snug in the pedal. If the end cap gets loose the pedal will slide back and forth on the spindle, and the bearings will get some side loads that they are not designed to take (the bearing can actually fall apart).

Other maintenance is replacing the o-rings if you start to get too much freespin in the pedals (the pedals spinning too much on their own when your foot is off the pedal).

It’s best not to wash mud off the pedals with a hose. The water can get inside and dilute or wash away the grease. I use a stiff bristle brush to get rid of any chunks of dirt that cling to my pedals and other muni parts. I never wash it down with a hose after a ride (well sometimes I’ll hose off the tire).

John,

Thanks for the tips!

Others,

Feel free to reply to my original 3 questions if ya wanna. :slight_smile:

Lewis