Schlumpf Spoke Tension?

Anybody have the numbers for acceptable tension?

I did a quick search and it didn’t turn up.

The hub is not the newest version, but the version just before with every other spoke hole being countersunk. That’s why it’s been relaced.

It’s in a 36" wheel. The LBS typically builds great wheels, but this is his first 36 and the tension seems abnormally low.

Thanks in advance for the help.

My Schlumpf hub is still in my muni, but my ungeared 36 that was built up at a shop several years ago is at about 90 Kgf = 900 N. The tension feels good and is still even around the wheel after a few years of (non-light) use. I’ve used this uni for 36er muni, riding down stairs, etc. so it’s holding up quite well. (This corresponds to a 22/23 on a park tool TM-1 with 14G spokes.)

Thanks Scott.

I’ve had similar experiences with my other 36" wheels. Non-Schlumpfs with the Niterider rims have liked somewhere around 20-23 on the Park TM-1. They have been no problems over thousands of miles.

I went with about 80Kgf on the Schlumpf (it was no where close to that). The wheel seems good and balanced. The difference in spoke angle due to the Schlumpf vs. regular hub leads me to believe things will be fine. It passed the check the shifting the whole way around test as described in the manual.

A couple of comments about tensioning up a 36" wheel.

The spoke will feel slack if compared with a 26" wheel. That is because they are longer. If you wind up the spoke to what it can take (this is more than you can with a shorter spoke because of the stretch). Your wheel will be weaker, not stronger. The wheel will have a tendency to tacko if twisted unless you have a super wide hub.

The schlumpf hubs need to have the bend of the spoke on the champfered side of the hole. If done on the other side the flanges have tendency to snap.

I agree with the figures on the park tension meter, 22/23 is great.


Spam bump!

Thanks Roger!

I got the wheel second hand with low miles. When I first was working on the wheel I noticed the tension was low and the spokes were in the wrong holes.

I have it to my local bike shop for a rebuild. The builder got the spokes in the proper holes and trued it, but the tension was anywhere from 7 to 14 on the Park Gauge.

Your thoughts, along with Scott’s confirm my experiences with the 1/2 dozen or so 36" wheels I’ve worked on or built. I’ve shot for even tension in that range and had no problems with them.