A few pics, that might help. I added ‘danger_uni’ to my searching.
A few pics, that might help. I added ‘danger_uni’ to my searching.
Thank you very much.
Since my girlfriend and I went out this afternoon for here 3th unicycle initiation session I took my g26 set very close to what I can see on terry’s videos and also close to the pics on the first Link you gave, I actualy found this handle setting pretty good!
I also set the bar-ends closer from eachother and will have to cut left and right side of the T to prevent it from rubing my legs.
This short and low handlebar setting was also better when I was riding with my arms holding nothing. Then the feeling gets close to handlebar-free unicycle which is not really the case with longer t-bar.
I didnt expected that with such a short handlebar but going fast was easy, even on a trail with a road tire at high PSI
I’m not sure anybody with really little feet has replied - or whether those who have larger feet appreciate how much of an issue this is. I have UK size 7 feet (so just smaller than yours), and I found that with the 150s mine came with it was really tricky changing gear - even using the ankle shift method which is what I’ve always used (I have hi-top shoes, but also found soccer ankle protectors worked with lo-tops). Hence I have 140s fitted which make that a lot easier - though I still have to shift my feet back on the pedals a little compared to my normal uni riding position.
I’d like to be able to ride with 150s - because while 140s are fine for use on road which is where I use this, I’d like to mguni in the future and 150 is also my optimum length for that. But I’m not sure they will work for me.
What about trying the DIY solution I explained few post back ? (cut soap spoons attached with elastic bands to the shoes at the most accurate place.
If you manage to touch the button with a firm and round surface it will do the job.
I will add my 21mm pedal extenders the next time I ride the g26, and I will probably have to use my DIY tip if I want to shift easily (because of the pedal extenders and the 150, my shoes are EU42 UK 8, US 9).
It’s also a matter of timing, and I feel that each time I change crank size I have to learn a new timing for my ankle shiftings.
I don’t know why but I believed the knard 26x3 was about 640gm, but just realized that it’s indeed 875gm.
Nearly 900gm matches better with my feelings on my unguni 26er, so finally I probably won’t associate it with my geared wheel cause I want to keep it as light as I can.
Looking forward something like a polyvalent and light tyre for road and XC that can also handle road camber without necessary being inflated to the max PSI (to keep some flexibility/suspension even on the sidewalk).
Whether I stay in G26 or I transform it to a G29, Maxxis ikon (26x2.2 or 29x2.2) are very appealing, it exists at very low weight (120TPI): 480-540 gm for the 26x2.2 version and 540-640gm for the 29x2.2.
Do you guys use one of those ikon tires?
Does it matche with what I’m looking for?
Here are two pics of my attempt to set my g26 close to what Terry Peterson and Kris Holm have done with theirs.
T has been cut to 120mm so it doesn’t rub my legs anymore.
Also ordered the lightest Maxxis ikon 26x2.2 120TPI which weights 480gm and a latex 130 light tube (even lighter than my FOSS tube).
Will see how it goes.
Then I have done few tests on the parking after I put the 21mm pedal extenders.
I brought few things (and the DIY spoon stuff) to see how I can improve the shifting despite the use of extenders.
Here is a pic of the stuffs I have used :
you can see a malleolus guard, my shin guard that also has a malleolus guard on it, the spoon recovered by scratch tape, and the elastic scratch band.
Like you can see on the following pics, I start putting the elastic band, then I place the spoon in the trajectory of the button for my 9US/8UK/42EU shoes and 150 cranks, and I recover with the elastic band that I stretch.
The same things are used on the left foot.
It’s ugly but can bee hidden by the pants and can be ordered in black as well.
Anyway, it’s not really supposed to stay like this but only to give an idea of where to put the spoon (or anything firm and round), but after that, a good finished and removable solution can be figured out. (something else than using elastic bands to fix the stuff).
I have tried the following combination:
1-Fivetens and the shin guard (and its own malleolus guard you can’t see in the pics).
2-Fivetens + shin guard + additional malleolus guard
3-Fivetens + shin guard + spoon stuff
4-Fivetens + shin guard + additional malleolus guard + the spoon stuff.
3 and 4 were giving the best results, making the shifting pretty much easy, but the elastic bands always finish by sliding upward , and the spoon follows. This was not happening with my former shoes.
The number 2 gave pretty good results as soon as I swapped the pedals for pretty much the same pedals but in one piece.
In the first place my fivetens were stuck on the pedals because of the screwed pins and it was pretty bad, both for my articulations and my shifting ability. Didn’t like it at all.
Then I put the same pedals but with round pins (molded) that allows my feet to rotate and to slide a bit, shifting was way easier and it was so more pleasant.
The 150 cranks really give me the feeling that I can simply cruise at low/medium speed in 2nd gear without much effort and without struggling with the balance.
Going fast (15-17mph) is achievable quicker (with less distance) and with less UPD risks than with shorter cranks, at least it is what I experimented so far.
So… Unicycle to work with a car on my back, gotcha (I don’t even have a licence let alone the machine itself)
Tarp’s a good idea! I might look into that, schlumpf or not!
The 3rd option is one reason I was looking at a G29. I could probably squish that under my desk and no one would even notice
All this being said - I think I’m shelving the Guni idea for now. After doing the math, it’s looking at being FAR too expensive. I was hoping the new Schlumpfs would retro-fit into my existing frames, but it doesn’t look like that’s going to happen, and so it’d have to be a whole new uni (As if I got a Guni I’d want to sell my current uni’s, which wouldn’t really be possible if I spliced parts off them).
Maybe the Schlumpf 2020 will be a better option!
Five Ten impact High + spoon = easy ankle shifting
As I was explaining few posts above an easy way to shift with ankle when using 150’s cranks is to use something firm and round like a spoon.
I’m not the only one who has got this idea, look at this post:
Mbalmer modified his shoes to be able to put on and off a modified spoon, you can see the modifications on this pic:
I was looking at my fivetens impact high, figuring out different ways of modifying the shoes when I noticed that there is indeed a place where I could simply put the spoon in without modifying anything !
I took some pics:
Just gave a short try on the parking with and without 21mm pedal extenders, both were easy, but of course it was even easier and predictable without the pedal extenders.
Since I already have put some scratch tape on the spoons, I realized that the place where I insert it was sensitive to the scratch so once in place the spoon doesn’t move.
It’s like the shoes were made to receive the shifting spoons haha
Here’s a few photos of the new model.
Key changes include:
Axle and bearing spacer updates for compatibility with the External Disc Brake standard. Axle length is now identical to the Spirit, Moment and Nimbus hubs and (unlike the previous version) the bearings now have a spacer on the outside. So you can switch out geared or ungeared wheelsets without having to adjust the disc brake.
Improved bearing durability
Flanges are slightly thicker for more durability
Physical block (small protruding nubs - see photo) prevents possible slippage of the knurled bearing side in the bearing housing. This requires that the bottom half of the inside edge of the bearing housing does not have a lip. All KH frames have been this way since 2012. It is an easy modification on other frames - just grind it off.
Greater flange-frame clearance for compatibility with more frame types.
Axle bolt hex key now increased to 8 mm to prevent stripping. The axle is now M14 instead of M12 to accommodate this.
Going out o 8mm in the crank bolt should be up there with adding a hard stop for the knurled bearing. Bout time!
Is the 125mm version going to be available at the launch date?
Come to think of it, will the 125mm version still be KH branded?
Knard 26x3 on a geared wheel.
Those improvement are a good thing.
Made a new toy from two of my unis.
Yesterday I decided to mix my kh muni with my G26 and this is the result:
The white HS11 set will probably be replaced by the black HS33 later, didn’t have the time to shorten it.
So, basically I had to take the 2015 blue kh frame from my muni cause my grey g26 frame couldn’t fit the 3" Knard and I strongly wanted to test this big tire on a geared hub.
Yesterday I tested it on a 10 miles nocturnal (and rainy) ride in Paris streets and it was pretty cool.
I inflated the knard to its max PSI (35 PSI which indeed is the low edge of PSI ranges on most of muni tires I guess) so I was actually with a G27.5 (virtually a 42.5" in 2nd gear), and even inflated to the max recommended PSI it was absorbing pretty well the uneven floors of most of the sidewalks and roads I rode in.
In 2nd gear the knard feels a bit louder (875gm) than some of the tires I have been testing so far on a g26(I tested very few tires) but not so much and it rolls pretty well for a fat/plus tire. In any case it is lighter and much funnier than the Continental Der Baron that was on the G26 in the first place.
The cambers where noticeable, especially in 2nd gear, but the tire is forgiving enough so it was not a so big deal, excepted on very pronounced cambers.
Cruising in high gear at about 9-11 mph was pleasant and more stable than with thinner wheels, it was also possible to go faster with less UPD risks because of the knard’s ability to absorb the floor’s irregularities.
This ride made me want to test it in the woods/trails, this is where it will give the max of fun I guess.
I don’t feel anymore the urgent longing of making a g29 of it, cause it will probably take plenty of time before I’m able to reach the limits of this setting in term of speed.
The very first wheel spins with this tire makes you smile for the rest of your day and it keeps it’s ability to be fun once in 2nd gear.
Not gonna put it off before a long time I guess.
The other parts from my former two 26ers will probably go to my girlfriend who is learning unicycle (on a trial 19er) and who feels appealed by muni rides in the future.
the 125mm will come a little later, but everthing is prepared for it (i guess a month later)
the inner part is the same.
and yes: kh
Strange as there is no KH 125mm frame ! It’s made for Nimbus
Yes the 125 mm version is a KH/Schlumpf hub too.
Full credit to Roger Davies for his motivation to Florian to do this size, and for input. The more kinds of unicycles this geared hub can fit, the better as far as I am concerned. I’m sure we can expect a bunch of debate about pros/cons of either in the next few pages of this thread =)
As Turtle says it will eventually come out, maybe a month. Will see.
Once I finally get product photos the details will be up at krisholm.com (eventually for both models).
A month is like two years in Florian time.
disc on crank vs disc on hub …
I’m not sure that would make a difference for me - fundamentally with small feet you don’t hit the right place to shift when your cranks are too long without having to shift your feet back a long way (I already ride with my feet further back on the pedals than normal with 140s).
Here is my ankle - I don’t need extra sticky out bits
Well, with some pretty small feet and a centered position on the pedals I understand that no matter how big your ankle is (by Mother nature or with added stuffs) the shifting button will simply not meet it.
But, the trajectory of the buttons while you pedal still meets your feet somewhere if you have high enough shoes.
That’s where you could add round stuffs so that it makes it posible to hit the buttons even with 150 mm cranks.
In your case that won’t be on the maleollus place but one or two inches higher I guess.