Schlumpf hubs: general discussion

ISIS bolt was getting loose too, so it would be good to put some loctite there. The problem is I had none there in the fields and it seems to be too late now.
The caliper clearance is also the problem when the crank sits so deeply, but it seems that some grinding on caliper adapter should help. I’ll keep you posted.

You will get some clearance out of grinding the caliper adapter, but it’s limited. I got my setup to work with 30 nM of force and loctite with minimal frame grinding by by grinding the caliper adapter. Keep the adapter surface as flush as possible when doing so.

If it turns out it doesn’t work, you may be able to still use the cranks on an ungeared uni. Machining the cranks sounds like a lot of work.

Make sure you use only blue thread locker, and nothing stronger, and especially not RED!

Not being a big fan in general of threadlock, I normally use purple (Loctite 222) when I feel I have to use some - just reassembled the back of my b*ke using that. That should be sufficiently strong to prevent bolts unscrewing due to vibration etc. in any normal use.

So are you hitting the caliper, caliper mounting adaptor, or D Brake/frame?

Machining the adaptor is a good idea, I assume you mean the D’ Brake right?

You could also try the Mountain Uni cranks, Sinz, they may have a different fit, but you’d need the Mountain Uni rotor as well.

Part of your problem is due to the cranks loosening, then being ridden, which probably enlarged the crank side splines just slightly, so now they are borderline for use on the low tolerance Schlumpf.

I’m hopeful the 2014 hub redesign will resolve this problems, with a longer spline and a crank stop…

A 2011 hub sold today on ebay Australia for a low $592 AUD. My phone fell asleep as I was waiting til the last seconds to place my final bid and I missed out. Oh well. Is the lucky duck here among us? Enjoy your hub :slight_smile:

The rotor bolts are hitting the frame (both fork/bearing cap weld and lower bearing cap) and the crank is hitting the caliper now.
My LBS idea was to machine the crank at rotor bolt nests, so that rotor fits against the frame, and then to machine the IS/PM adaptor, so that caliper fits or search for narrower adaptor as they are not all the same.

Wow, that was a good deal.

I saw that too and am pissed that I didn’t bid on it.

And the seller should be pissed he didn’t advertise it here.

There might have been something wrong with it to be selling at almost $1,200 less than a new one! ($592 AUD = $545 USD) Did the seller offer a return option if the item was found to be defective in any way?

I bought that 2011 hub on ebay!!!

Its is A1, arrived 2 days ago and the guy Roger who sold it on ebay said he imported it direct from Switzerland into Victoria.

It cost him $1700AUD to buy then customs later slapped a $500 import duties Tax on the poor guy.

He did have a buy now price on it buy i was too late for that. About 4 bidders on the scene and i got it posted to my door for a tickle under $630AUD

Its like he said low km, a wipe over and one would say its new. not a mark even on the bearing outters. A smear of oil on one bearing side and the rest was clean as a whistle. Jealous yet?

I must say a am very very pleased. If it had been the bearing protected model i would have been even more very lucky but i think given the condition and price i am lucky enough to own a second Schlumpf!

Roger did not expect to fetch more than hes buy now price which i think he said was $696. He is happy its going out to another rider who can make better use of it. He found 29 geared up not very inviting and scary fast and didnt wish to pursue building it into a smaller wheel.

It will in the near future be put into a 2012 KH36 fitted with XO brake, Hs1 200mm disc, and vision aero bars on a KH touring bar. Maybe a flatfish too!!!

I am a very lucky Duck to have got this hub.

Sorry to all those who missed out, fell to sleep or are away. Didnt mean to rain on anyone’s parade…

I am glad it was a genuine sale. I havent riden it obviously although i can put a tyre on to test it under load on the weekend… I think it apears fine and the seller is genuine from my conversations with him. I rang him soon and i found the auction and he called me back.

Wonderful nice genuine people in the Unicycle World. You guys are the best. Specially ones who sell near new geared hubs for peanuts. That opportunity must be so rare.

If you are looking for a geared hub i hope too one comes your way soon weather it finds you or you save precious pennies like i did with my first one and buy a brand new fresh one. Satisfaction guaranteed.

Or as rumors grow perhaps wait for a 1:1.3 ratio to appear on the market which could be sooner than we think

Glad to hear of your good fortune there Tas!

Yes, you are one very lucky duck! We are all appropriately envious.
It’s great to see that it went to a member of this forum.
(Funny, when I try to look for “Schlumpf” on ebay, the returns I get are mostly for Smurfs. I don’t think these show up very often.)

very cool, sincere congrats on a great deal.

LanceB

Thanks guys,

And it is far better than any Smurf you can find on Ebay thats for sure lol :smiley:

Happy Geared Trails,
Darren

[B]Static “toe” & “hand” shifting while still standing on my G26er. Plus fun single track riding mostly in high.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttSEO8mjqW8[/B]

Static “toe” & “hand” shifting while still standing on my G26er. Plus fun single track riding mostly in high.

Nice! The ending was rather abrupt though.

Beautiful flow Terry. Nice short video

Still waiting for the announcement of a movie length feature film in the near future… :slight_smile:

I’m sorry if the answer is somewhere else in the thread, I didn’t read all 1232 posts. Are we allowed or not to use crankstops on a Schlumpf hub? Like the latest generation. I’m tired of grinding my diskbrake adapter, when I use my geared wheel, the disk rubs on the adapter, when I use a normal wheel, I have to put 8 spacers between the adapter and the frame.

Every single time I take my cranks off and put the back on it comes even closer to the frame, now my left crank is nearly sitting on the bearing, and there’s roughly like 2mm between my right crank and the bearing. When I welded my tab on my frame, I had the crank on my wheel and the brake on the disk to make sure I had the perfect distance, now I have to grind my adapter once again.

Sorry for the pictures.