The other worldwide shops however do keep them in stock
When I was buying, I was planning to buy from UDC UK but at the time they were out of stock
So instead bought from municycle.com the German site
Although shipping was more. Being delivered outside of EU the 19 or 20% sales tax is removed, so actually worked out ok
However depends on any import duty where you are
The upshot is although UDC (US)don’t carry them you can get a new hub pretty quickly if you shop around. I ordered, wheel built in Germany. Then shipped to Hong Kong all within 2 weeks
I went with the 26x2.4 with 137mm cranks. Think that is my ideal setup but might try the 125s to see how it feels. I was using 137s with my 29" and that worked well for me so maybe the 125s on a 26" might work for me? Hmmm…
Very true. I just wanted to point out the following: if you ship an ISIS-hub to Florian Schlumpf you do not need to proof it is within warranty period. Until 2015 either it is, or the recall applies.
Of course the situation is different for square tapered cranks. So it would be interesting to see how Florian deals with defective square tapered cranks when warranty has expired. Did anyone have the chance to gain respective experience?
I need help from the riders who own the new generation of Schlumpf KH hub with the dust shields!
I wanted to put my geared wheel back on my Muni because I exploded my second Double Wide rim on my un-geared setup, and the dust shield on the grey side of the hub, the same problem I had, but now it fell off completely. Florian never replied my email. I tried to check if anything looked cracked but everything seems right. Has this ever happenned to anyone else?
Thanks. I can post pictures once I find my camera.
I just found out what was the problem. I took the crank off, then I managed to take the disk (dust sheild) off. I looked on it and there was some kind of glue holding it, I took all the old glue off of the disk, and all the glue that was still on the hub, I washed everything, put some glue on the hub and put the disk back.
I’m pretty sure what happened was that when I first used the hub, there was too much material on the frame and it broke the glue that was holding the disk. I’m really really really happy that it was just a small problem that was easy to fix. I’ve been riding my Schlumpf for only a month!
Exact same thing happened to me. Then I saw the same as you and put a very small amount of glue on where the shield had been glued on in the first place.
Here’s a video of me riding my G26er, shot this morning at OC’s “Fullerton Loop”. Mtber buddy charlie filmed me while riding with my gopro set up on his bike. Gives a nice sense of flow and movement, compared to static tripod shots.
Nice Terry, that’s a really good example of how a guni is better than a fixed hub, nice mixed use, some smooth trails, asphalt, places where you can go fast if you have the gearing.
So, I saw your note about doing this same loop on a 29er, but how about a 36er?
Thanks. Yeah I’ve done this trail on a 36er, and it’s ok for the flats and the not-so-steep ups, but there are a LOT of steep climbs, many of which are rutted, where you would likely end up walking a 36er, especially “Heart attack hill”. I barely did it on my Guni, mostly due to the excess hub weight. And pushing a wheel with a 3 foot diameter up these hills is brutal and a losing battle.
I think that because of the many steep sections, albeit not really long sections, the super light kh 29er would be ideal. There just aren’t enough consistently long stretches where you can do sustained speed runs on a GUni. The only other possible option would be doing the trail in a counter-clockwise direction, where there would be more dh than ups. But the vast majority of mtbers go clockwise. And I like the climbs anyway!
So glad you stopped the music during the big rock segment so we could hear the snap-crackle-pop of rubber cutting it’s path. Wish you would do that more often. There is something about the sounds of nature disrupted by b*cycle noises (brakes squeaking, shocks rattling) that makes me feel like I’m on-the-trail. Nice of your buddy to film for us. He was good and quiet for the most part. Can’t blame a guy for breathing heavy. Indicates severity of incline (which is really hard to convey in pictures and video) to the viewer. Not to be a film critic, just telling you what works and doesn’t work for me. I do like your use of subtitles to draw us in and let us know where you are at. Give us lots of that and the sounds of nature.
Big fan of the ttt8699 channel but I’m not sure this fits in the Schlumpf hub general discussion thread. Then again, I am always anxious to talk about riding geared unicycles. What a hoot!
Funniest part was the first climb where you said “that will get the cobwebs out” because I feel that way on the climb to get a 36er out of my neighborhood. Climbing keeps my attention and makes me focus when it comes time to use high gear for the descent.
So maybe I’m crazy(er), but is climbing not as much fun as desending?
Seriously, I will go out of my way for a good climb esp if it has a corresponding descent.
The other day, after a long ride, I had the choice of finishing on flowing single track along the lake or riding up and over the ridge; I chose the ridge and it was amazing, completed the “Rainbow” with no UPD’s for the first time ever on my new 26er
The trail I rode yesterday has many short but steep climbs, and I rode my G26er. Worked well on the flatter singletrack but I found myself having to downshift a lot due to so many hills, and the climbs were very taxing but doable.
So my question is, do you think the climbs, in general, would be easier with my kh 29er (wtb stout)? I thought maybe this would be a more practical choice for this particular trail, and still give me decent speed. The way the trail is laid out, there just aren’t enough stretches of trail where I can do sustained speeds in high, without having to downshift for steep climbs.
I was very curious to see what the weight difference was between the Schlumpf wheelset and the 29er wheelset, and was surprised to find that the 29er wheelset was only about a 1lb lighter! I realize that it’s mostly the rotational weight that affects climbing difficulty, but I’m now thinking that the 1lb weight savings on the 29er would pretty much be offset by the 3" larger diameter wheel. Thoughts?
I had hoped that by switching from ungeared 29 to 26 guni, it would increase my climbing ability with the smaller wheel, while increasing speed with the high gear. While top speed certainly went up with the guni, if anything I think I climb better with the 29, and overall I like the 29 better, although I found just the action of switching gears in itself to be really fun. Maybe 24 guni would be the way to go, but the 24 wheel feels really small to me.
A 29er is a fine climber; you go 10% further with each pedal rev than on a 26, and the effort is less than 10% greater. (In fact it’s probably less if you have a typical 29er tire vs. a full-on MUni tire on the 26").
I recently changed from a Geared 24" set up to a lighter weight G26er (130mm cranks). I found that the larger wheel helps quieten trail chatter and is actually better for rolling in steep technical sections. All in all the change has been a good one.
Riding an unguarded 29er on moderate trails is always going to be easier (and for a lot of people faster) than riding a geared 26er. Getting the most out of a geared unicycle is difficult- it takes much more skill and strength, but the payoff once you can harness the potential is immense. Thinking that having gears will automatically make you a faster rider is a misnomer that lots of people have about GMunis. It gives you the potential, you still need to put in the hard work to be able to harness it. After 2 years of solid Gmuni riding I find that i am still learning and adding to my shifting/riding technique. It is true that for the first 6 months or so- i would have still been faster on a 29er than my geared 24". However, the type of riding i do now, and the speed at which I can do it, would be completely impossible on a 29er (Ken Looi and Jamey Mossengren can attest to that)
I just got back from a hill climb comparison between my G26er and my stock kh 29er. I found a fairly steep (maybe 15% grade) grassy hill and my first climb was with the 29er. The last top half of the climb took the most work but it felt pretty good. I waited a few minutes and then I did the same climb on the G26er (in 1:1 of course) and was surprised that it was very noticeably easier! No question about it.
I’m not sure whether it’s just because I’m so used to the G26er, and haven’t ridden the 29er in many months or, that it’s simply physics; The larger 29er wheel weighs only slightly less than the G26er wheel, but the Larger wheel requires more force/leg strength to turn then a smaller wheel. Makes sense to me.
My bottom line: The G26er is an awesome MUni machine, great for a wide variety of terrain, from XC to moderately technical, handles pretty much like a normal 26er in 1:1, and is a virtual 39er in disguise!
