Schlumpf hubs: general discussion

Sorry for the double post, but I thought it was a good idea to give you a complete review about my hubs I rode since April 2009.

April 2009 to April 2010 :
I received a 36", the wheel built by unicycle.ca, from a batch of 4 hubs which 3 of those had the big bearing problem, mine was the good one :stuck_out_tongue: After 1 week of riding one of the shifting button broke. The customer’s service between municycle, Florian and I was a mess. It took 2 months to get the button. Anyway, I rode ~ 4200 km of complete hapiness and felt in love with my hub!! Over this time I broke 20 spokes before I sent this hub back for repair. Once again the customer’s service wasnt effective. Florian told me this hub was gonna be repaired very fast, so I shipped the hub by express post (that was expensive). It took 3 months for the repair :(. I bought another hub at the same time, so I received 2 instead of 1 :D.

July 2010 :

Now I have my repaired hub and installed it on my 24" muni. The new one goes on my 36". Three weeks later the repaired hub had the same problem I sent it back 3 month earlier for :angry: . I tried to contact Florian by emails without answers, so I came on this forum and someone told me to repair it with locktite. This is what I did. Since the repair I rode my 24" for long distances and alot of muni/xc, for a total of 2500 km, and the locktite repair is still good. Also 1000 km out of these 2500 were in Quebec winter’s conditions, that means salt all over the roads and -20°c and below. There I realised that this hub is something strong! The only problem I had was in very low temperature (-30), the gear froze when downshifting, but after a very short moment (within a second) it released and was alright, without bail. And salt = rust. The hub went rusty on the steel side. The black side has no rust at all. I cleaned it up last month, and had to clean my bearings too, 'cause the rust came inside both bearings (the big and the small one).
About the 36" hub, it was perfect untill today, it has the same problem than the other hub had. This won’t be a problem to repair it by myself, and anyway I had to rebuild my wheel because 8 spokes broke since July. I rode a total of 2500 km with this new hub before the first minor problem appear, not bad :slight_smile:

As Kris said, we need to do some maintenance over the hub and this include taking care of the shifting buttons. There can be rust/dust in it, so you need to screw and unscrew the shifting button’ inside lock totaly to avoid it to be stuck (and add some grease). It happened to my friend and now both button’s lock are stripped. Yesterday he lost one of his buttons in a ride. I dont know what is the worse part : loosing a part of the hub, or knowing there’s no way to get a schlumpf’s spare piece quickly.

Also I found out that riding with a loose crank will eat up the crank’s spindle (hopefully this is the crank, not the isis axe. The axe seams stronger than the cranks). You will see that everytime you tight up the crank’s screw, the crank come closer to the frame. There’s a point where the crank’s screw is tighten to the max and the crank is still loose and touch the frame. When it happens you must switch your crank left to right or buy another crank set. I had this problem twice, and cost 100$ each time.

I’ll conclude with 2 tips. First one is about building the wheel. The first times I built up my schlumpf wheels I held the hub on my legs while lacing the spokes. But it is much easier to use the unicycle’s frame upside down, and use it to support the hub. Second tip is about shifting. Since 2007 I use ankle brace protection, and it allow me to shift easily and without pain at the malleolus. Also it saved my ankle in a very bad bail (dropping a quarterpipe at high speed on my 24"). I broke my fibula in 3 parts, and riped off a ligament on the otherside of the ankle. The ankle brace held my bones together, when taking it off my ankle flipped to the left (that hurts !!). 5 months later I was riding New-Zealand’s mountains after Unicon :smiley:

With a good maintenance and care, the Schlumpf hub can last for many, many thousands kilometers! And I want more !! :smiley:

Jean

What about sewing?

Shoe Goo is the official substance of ridiculous footwear-related hack jobs.

I was discussing shifting with our group in Auburn this weekend, and one thing I was reflecting on was the the guys who are totally fluid with shifting (like Corbin and Beau) also do a lot of one foot riding (or no-foot, in their cases). So one thing that can probably make a lot of difference in shifting success is working on one-foot skills, so you’re more comfortable moving your foot around on the pedal.

This seems like a major design flaw to me. Why can’t you use spacers, like we have on non-geared isis hubs?

Look at this pic and see why spacers should not be used…

Not sure what you are you referring to. The retaining clip? Or because the axle is too short to accommodate spacers, and therefore the cranks would not go on far enough and the shift buttons would then not be sticking out far enough?

Still seems like a fundamental design flaw that would cause the cranks to start contacting/rubbing against the frame, after tightening the cranks a number of times. And then after a certain point, as mentioned in an earlier post, the cranks would become loose after a time, because you could not tighten them any further, and would most likely require replacing.

As I understand it Jogi is using spacers (maybe just one) with his Triton to make the guni hub work with a disc brake. I intend to try using a spacer with my Schlumpf also, this time on my KH, for the disc brake as well.

Why do you think it won’t work? The button can be adjusted in or out, so that shouldn’t pose a problem.

I don’t think its a shift button issue. . . . . From what I can tell from my KH Schlumpf hub and the pic posted by Hugo, the regular KH ISIS spacers would bear directly aganst that circlip and are likely damage it or the groove it lives in - I don’t think many circlips in that size range that are designed to be loaded/pressed from the side- without bending/breaking and damaging the bearings held behind it.

Other thoughts out there???

Bryce

why isn’t a spacer made that could fit the splines and bottom out at the end of the splines to lessen the pressure against the hub. Well, it’s expensive to spline stuff, but Schlumpf could make it. What if a softer carbon spacer is used?

So is this a game-ender? How do Jogi and Turtle run 6mm spacers in their gunis?

How about a custom made spacer that has an I.D. that would clear the clip, and have a “C” shape, where the opening would allow the circlip ends not to be contacted by it?

spacer.jpg

The real solution is a crank stop as is required by the ISIS specification.

http://www.isisdrive.com/isisdrive/faq.htm

The bolded isn’t true of any of our ostensibly ISIS cranks. And on the Schlumpf, there isn’t even a crank stop (even if the spacers used on other uni “ISIS” setups count as crank stops, which is questionable).

The Sinz cranks have a ring shape at the bottom of the spline, where they would sit against the hub, or in this case, the C-clip. The 6mm spacer which I rcvd from UDC has the exact same shape and diameter as the ring of metal on the Sinz crank.

From a quick inspection of the KH cranks, they have the same shape where they come into contact with the hub as well. Tomorrow, when I take the cranks off my hub, I’ll know for sure.

Hi all,
Regarding “crank creep” – I think it is from too high of a torque spec. I believe I’m using 25 ft-lbs of torque for my cranks, along with blue lock tight on the bolt. They don’t come loose.

I have lots and lots of miles on my three hubs. One is a generation 1 hub in a geared 36 with the old bearings and has some “side to side” play, but I still ride it. The bearing play somewhat affects really steep hill climbing, but other than that it is working strong. This hub had the internal gears upgraded after RTL when chuck had broke his hub. I probably have ~3000 geared 36 miles, although some are on a different hub and in a modified nimbus frame. The hub is currently in a geared 36, which I won during RTL and have been riding since.

My second hub is a second gen one and is in a geared KH 24. The frame broke before the hub, and I’m waiting to get a new frame.

My third hub is in a geared KH 26. I don’t have as many miles on this hub, but it is running strong.

The current generation hub seems to have the 1st generation issues worked out. The bearings are solid, and the hub is solid.

I won’t ever go back to riding an ungeared 36.

corbin

Ok, what if a spacer was used on the right side, to position the crank precisely, and only 25 ft/lbs was the torque applied to set the crank and blue locktite was used on the crank bolt… that should keep the cranks and hub happy while locating the disc consistently.

For steep and rocky technical trails you would. But then again, most “sane” people wouldn’t ride a 36er on trails like that in the first place, haha! :o (But I never claimed to be sane! :D)

broken shift shaft

I was happily Schlumpfing along and while up shifting I heard a snap followed by the right button flying off the uni. This happened on Friday on my commute to work. I was able to continue in 1:1. I e-mailed Florian but haven’t gotten any response yet. I expect the turn around to be several months. I am back on the trusty Nimbus Nightrider. I sure do miss the Schlumpf. It only had 50 miles on it. I just got used to shifting. I haven’t had the usual Schlumpf problems though. Cranks have remained tight, no bearing problems, and no shift buttons unscrewing. I will be glad to get back to Schlumpfing. Unfortunately it will be a long time before enjoying the hub again.

Yes, that was my thought. But: Somebody may send an email to Florian and ask, then we’ll know.

HAve you tried contacting Bronson Silva to see if he has any buttons available? He’s the US distributor for Schlumpf, and if he does have them, you won’t have to wait for months! You have mentioned that you haven’t had any issues, like the “buttons unscrewing”. If that’s the case, how did the button come off? Did it actually break off? Were you able to go back and find it?

The title was “broken shift shaft”, so it broke and did not unscrew.