not alot i bet
@ tony. I’ve seen people use the ventures (munirocks), the Qu-ax Alu cranks and the Sinz cranks (jogi) on their schlumpfs- all apparently without any problems. I’m almost thinking of changing to a 26" schlumpf with 135mm sinz cranks so i can run the Mountainuni disc brake set up. I would stay with the 24" but the sinz cranks do not go any shorter than 135 
- and thats a bit long for my liking.
Mark
The Ventures work well on my geared KH26 and I’m running the Tensiles on the KH36 with no problems. I do keep tightening the crank bolts religiously.
Spare parts
FYI, I emailed Florian Schlumpf about pricing on spare parts. In response, he updated the “price list” section for unicycle hubs to list spare shift buttons and crank bolts. See link at top right of this page.
He also wrote that shipping would be about CHF 10.
So, looks like about $50 USD to get 1 spare shift button and 1 spare crank bolt, including shipping cost.
Just a note on shifting. There was a thread recently about foot placement on pedals that led to John Foss saying “99% of the time: balls”. This sunk in, and I realized that I often ride muni closer to the arch. My next guni ride, I made sure that I was riding “balls” and hit 99% shift.
Anyone know if Florian has plans to offer the hub with a disc brake rotor?
If someone was to be “innovative” and build a rotor, could the “extra holes” be used for a rotor?
Anyone know when the patent expires?
I asked Florian a while ago but he said that there would not be enough space between the hub and the frame, to attach a disc brake rotor - at least not with the current design of the hub.
And if you attach the rotor directly to the hub, without any spacers, there would not be enough space between the spokes and the rotor, to fit the brake.
No idea about the patent.
As sensitive as the internal parts seem to be, I’d be worried about throwing a rotor on hub for a disc brake (I think there was some discussion of this in a prior thread?). While I have no idea about the forces involved, I wonder what the effect on the hub would be by braking with a conventional hydrolic rim brake compared to the rotor on the crank disk brake compared to a disc brake with the rotor attached to the hub? Is there any real difference in what forces are affecting the geared hub in these different cases?
FWIW, I don’t think I’ve ever attempted a shift (up or down) while braking so I can’t say what effect shifting while braking entails but it would be an interesting discussion about what affect these different brake systems might have on the hub in this shift-while-brake scenario.
Rob
Thanks for the disc brake feedback, that helps with my decision to buy now or wait.
So, anyone know of a used 26 guni wheel for sale?
Tony - I think it depends on what version of the isis hub you get. He did increase the width of the splines in later models and I guess this allowed other cranks to be used. I tried some nimbus cranks (not sure if they were ventures or not) 1.5-2 years ago and they definitely did not fit on the hub that I have.
I see the KH Moments as being the most versatile since you can get them dual drilled (but yeah, they are heavy as)
The change to slightly wider was at serial # 200 I think. It was only a few mm, but gives more crank clearance and was a good idea.
—Nathan
Curious, do even the latest batch of these hubs still suffer from ‘crank creeping’?
I’m getting the SINZ cranks for my KH29/Schlumpf. I have an older hub, and, as I understand, I’ll need spacers. Does anyone know if there is enough spline there to do this?
Just quoting what kb1 said in the Mountain Uni thread:
If you have a older hub with the shorter spindle I would probably go with the 6mm spacer.
Does anyone remember how much longer the latest version is than the older ISIS spindle?
Check your bearing bolts regularily
I didn’t - and landed on my butt today (ouch!)
I was riding on my 36" and the knurled bearing just slipped at the moment when I tried to reduce speed in high gear.
The uni flew away in front of me. At first I thought that the hub was broken, but later on I realized that it was my own fault - not cheking the bolts for several hundret kilometers.
I now tightened them again with 4 Nm and everything seems to be fine (except for my butt).
I did the same thing. It wasn’t from too loose bolts. I had to grind the bearing housing down just a hair so it could hold the knurled bearing snug enough.
Oh.
But that is not the problem in my case. There is still a millimeter space left between the two halfs of the housing.
Tolerance of new MountainUni.com part…
What do you guys think? I still don’t know if there is enough room for the lower bolt that will attach the disc brake caliper between the Uni-Caliper Mount and the hub shell, but this seems tight too! note the 2.85mm spacing behind the bearing and the part’s inner lip. I’m glad I’m not painting these! They are Made in USA, machined from 6061 billet!
Can you make those bearing caps quick release?
Yeah, yeah, folks poo-poo the “thneeed”, but for a disc brake set up that could use multiple wheels, it is a time saver and would prevent thread wear on the bearing holder bolts.
Seriously, I have a bunch or $$ burning a hole in my pocket, ready to pop for a guni, but I am on the fence when it comes to going disc hub or disc cranks on my exitsing rigs.
Assuming the Schlumpf is not going to be disc compatible in the near future, that makes a disc hubbed frame less appealing to me. If I could have one uni frame set and three wheels (26 x 3.8, 26 x 2.6 guni, 29 x 2.4) I’d be set.
This one thing would swing me.
I saw a design for a hinged cap on the other thread…
Quick release and the Schlumpf knurled bearing holder do not go together; the proper pressure is too specific. Too little and your high gear slips, dumping you on the ground; too much and you ruin your hub. No thanks on that one.