The Schlumpf 36er sounds great. I only got up to a 27.5 but I was just borrowing a wheelset so re-lacing into something larger wasn’t really an option.
Do you use the official Schlumpf grease? I do wonder whether my slippage problems were partly caused by the thinner oil that has been put in the hub (not by me I might add) leaking out more than normal and coating the knurled bearing. It was definitely something I was cleaning off the housing and frame more than I thought I should have been.
pierrox:
Staninless steel plates in theese places (picture)
mowcius:
Yes, I use only original grease from Florian.
My idea to use set screws just left and right of bottom center into the bearing cap, is meant only to create some additional pressure against the knurled bearing surface without penetrating it. The bearing cap is first brought up to proper torque to make sure there is no Play Between the bearing cap and the bearing. This way the set screws won’t lift the bearing off the bottom of the cap but only to provide additional pressure to prevent slippage.
Here’s an example how the set screw should work with the knurled bearing. The photos below are from one of my piano repair jigs with tubular legs that fit snugly inside aluminum blocks which are then locked in place with set screws. The set screws leave a slight indentation in the legs but just as they won’t budge once the set screws are snugged against them, my guess is they would have the same effect on the knurled bearing.
If you put steel plates there, the bearing cap wont be able to clamp down the bearing. Post pictures of your actual frame and how it’s setup. I see only 2 options, frame was defective and the lip was too thin or, it wasn’t installed properly.
Show us what you got!
I’m with Jacob. This can not happen, if everything is set up as it should be. I also have a M8xx hub and only use one of these blocks (modified QX frame, grove for this block in the middle of the upper lip, see here) and there’s no slipping at all. Also, as Pierox says, the knurled surface of the hub (steel) made the soft aluminum frame knurled too.
What you describe is wear/abrasion. That can only happen where parts move. A properly installed M8xx Schlumpf does not move. So you hub must have started to move in the frame first and thus chew off the lip. The question is: what made this movement possible?
Does the hub have 2 stopping block? It looks like the knurled bearing did not even sit in the bottom of the clamp.
Was it maybe installed upside down? Remember: the two blocks are not at 0° and 180°. Theres is one side, thad has to go into the frame and one, that has to go into the bearing cap. On the photo, I can not see marks of the knurled surface inside the frames bearing housing. Either did it not touch the ground (installed upside down?) or it was not tightened correctly.
The photo tells me, that the hub slipped by about 70° to 80° and the painting in the ground of the frames bearing housing looks fairly untouched.
No, no, this has not been installed right.
I though that would be the case. If there is 2 stoppers there is definitely a top and a bottom to the hub.
I put only one stop in mine and it works great, I’m guessing the 2 really holds it tight without being able to spin at all!
Has anyone ever tried to use a Schlumpf hub with a new Qu-ax RGB uni? Does it easily fit or do we have some modifications to do?
I’m going to build a G36 so I try to get the best parts… And the incoming RGB 36 frame seems to be the best frame to have (except Flansberrium’ frames 
)!
When I asked them about this on their Facebook page, they said it’s not tested but the caps are the right size basically so it ‘should work’ (Though there’s no frame notch for the newer hubs, so you’ll have to rely on friction). The disc tab’s on the wrong side as well apparently!
EDIT: And I definitely want to see an RGB 36er. Are they bringing out a coloured 36er rim too? 
… or just file that notch, like I did on my QX frame.
Does this mean we can’t set up a disc brake? 
I don’t have any single piece of information about this. All I know is that the RGB 36er frames will only be available in red and black.
But if you want a coloured 36er rim, you can take a Nimbus Stealth 2 one!
The only solution is to have the disc on the crank = KH Spirit on the right side
Such a simple solution. Thanks Bouin-Bouin! Anyway, that’s the only way to have a disc brake with a Schlumpf hub, isn’t it?
disc on schlumph
Nope ! Mine is attached to the hub.
But that’s a home-made setup, correct?
The 125mm Schlumpf hub that will probably never exists should have had an inboard disc!
How did you manage to do that?
Lobbybopster is a fabrication wizard 
You should check out some of his creations!