I like the supermoto 29x2.35 , I have it on my nimbus 29er (ungeared), and by making the choice of building my geared wheel with a kh freeride rim instead of a dominator2, I know the supermoto is not an option because this rim is known to have issues with schwalbe road tires at high PSI.
But I like the Knard tyre which is not so heavy for such a big tyre and it absorbs irregularities pretty well, even at max PSI, which a supermoto or a big one can not do at max PSI.
I wonder if Florian would ever consider offering a hub that has interchangable internals like this new IGH bicycle hub? Looks really nifty. You could buy one geared hub and simply move it between your unicycles depending on what type of riding you wanted to do that day!
You just convinced me to go with a g29 instead of g36. Great comment! I need to be able to climb many hills in Colorado. Thanks for sharing.
Rob Urban
"On my new 30km daily commute the geared 36er didn’t shave any time off, compared with the 29er. That surprised me because there were certainly sections that felt like I was riding faster. These were balanced by having to slow down for changes and not being able to climb hills as fast. Perhaps because I’m not used to it enough yet. I might rebuild my hub into a 36 wheel of my own and see if I can make some improvements in my time. The 36er felt so different from anything else I’ve ridden that I’m uncertain whether I would ever feel truly relaxed on it. The speed increase would have to be reasonably significant before I would take it over a geared 29er. On the flat or downhill you can certainly go faster on the bigger wheel but I don’t live in a particularly flat city
[/QUOTE]
This is going to be a fun weekend building a wheel! Think my GUni is blue enough?
I’ve hit a bit of a weird problem, it seems like the KH frame is slightly too wide at the bearing cups for the hub to fit properly - I’ll get one bearing in then the other one will sit halfway out on the inside… am I OK to just give it a shove inwards to bend it in slightly?
Aside from that, both bearings fit the cups perfectly without any frame modification which is nice
For the first question, maybe you have a very old version which doesn’t match the kh frames.
If i’m not wrong they didn’t in the first place.
And yes you’ll probably have to modify your frame : filing the weldings on the inside, but if you really have a old not matching hub, I’m afraid this will be the last of your concerns…
I thought this was just the one before the previous generation to be honest, are these really that troublesome with new frames? I see the welds that need filing but the only other issue is the bearings being a couple mm narrow which I assumed I could just push the frame in for!
did you try to put it on your 36er just to see whether the bearing to bearing distance issue comes from the 29er frame or from the hub?
Edit: don’t try to make the hub turn while being in the qu-ax 36er frame, it’s just to see if the bearing to bearing distance matches.
The inner lips on the qu-ax will interfere with the hub.
I’ll try that when I get home, the distance was only very slightly out (basically just when one bearing is in correctly, the other one just sits slightly on the inner lip).
OK, so further to my previous message, I have a couple of photos for y’all to peruse!
I’ve put my Schlumpf in my Qu-Ax frame (Not my 36er but my 29er - same bearing width though), my Qu-Ax wheel in my KH frame, and finally the Schlumpf in the KH frame, for comparison. It’s looking more and more like all I need to do is shave these welds off the inside, but I want you all to see before I do anything (and tell me everything’s gonna be alright).
So, here’s the thing. The Schlumpf fits perfectly into the Qu-Ax frame, and the Qu-Ax wheel fits perfectly into the KH frame… So seemingly, neither the KH frame or the Schlumpf are incorrect, and it seems like the welds sticking out on the inside are to blame for causing the bearing on the Schlumpf to sit lop-sided.
EDIT!!!
The bearing cups aren’t an incorrect distance at all - the hub just sits at a slight angle, causing the second one to go in wonky (and not all the way into the cup).
Pictures here (Hopefully they’re self-explanatory!):
Schlumpf in KH frame, knurled bearing sitting right
Schlumpf in KH frame, didn’t move it from the last pic, non-knurled bearing sitting wonky
Alrighty, further to the above, I buffed the weld bumps off as mentioned and now my hub fits without issue Clearance is tight but it works. I suppose the frame is stiff enough that that shouldn’t be an issue
Thought I’d chuck an update here! The Schlumpf 29er is crazy fun and feels exactly how I wanted it to - slow and controlled in low gear, fast and, uh, not controlled in high
I’ve had a bit of a weird issue with it tonight - I’ll setup the shift buttons to about where I feel they should be (when they’re clicked in they’re flush with the crank), which is great, and is easy enough for me to thwack it to shift. There’s a little bit of play in the shift buttons either side when they’re clicked in, which apparently is needed for the gears to engage.
I’ll ride up and down the street practicing the shift (both ways), and eventually the upshift will cause a freewheel. I’ll reach down, and the (clicked in) up shifter is now solid - no inwards play at all.
I realised that tightening the little grub screws too much caused the shifter button to wiggle its way in a bit too far, so I loosened them off a quarter turn or so - this seems to give them the play they need back, BUT now when I shift around a bit (give it maybe 10 shifts in both directions) the up shifter ends up sticking a mile away from the crank!
I feel like I’m missing something dumb here in the setup, because I can’t really figure out why the shifter buttons will randomly migrate inwards or outwards, but it’s definitely happening.
As far as I know I’ve torqued the cranks up correctly (~45Nm using a torque wrench). I click the shifter in, and tighten it until its flush with the crank, THEN use the shifter grip tool thingy and tighten the grub tool until it stops turning, click the other shifter in and repeat on the other side. Is there a step I’ve missed?
I had to remove the right crank on my Schlumpf to install a disk on the crank (finally).
When I re-assembled everything, I was careful to follow every steps of the manual and used my torque wrench to tighten it to the given specs. However, I was surprised to see my hex bit end up “blocked” in the crank bolt after torquing it to the ~45Nm.
Is this bolt just softer than average ? Or is it just me not lining up properly with the center of the bolt ?
Fortunately, I did no major damage and the bolt corners are barely marked by the hex bit.
I just wanted to double-check with everyone to not make the mistake twice
Is this a new new generation hub or old?
If old do you use the same bolt to set the crank and to keep it in place or do you use the bulky hex bolt (8mm) to set the crank and the small one (6mm) to keep the crank in place?
The 6mm one can take up to 30Nm but Is weak enough to get easily rounded when putting more torque
If I recall correctly, you are to torque a normal (non-drilled out) crank bolt to spec, then replace the bolt with the Schlumpf drilled out bolt which then only needs to be tight enough to hold everything in place.
The problem with the bolt is that indeed it’s not greatly specs in the sense that the wrench has a lot of play. An option would be to shop for a different Allen bit, hoping to find a slightly bigger one - I think the Facom models are tighter, more than no-names for sure.
Florian patched this problem by offering (selling) an extra torque bolt, thicker and taking a larger Allen wrench. You install it first, torque it to specs, it brings the crank where it’s supposed to sit, then you remove it and put the original in place, torque it (it’s now easy as the crank is sitting in place) and go riding.
You can also put a bit of blue Loctite on the threads as a measure against all the stories about cranks getting loose on their own.
I actually did this on mine with a bog standard ISIS bolt and didn’t have any issues - it has a hole down the middle (though not right through) anyway so I didn’t squash the shift shaft.
Am I right in saying the new Schlumpfs come with a wider hex socket on the bolt? I wonder if these newer bolts are compatable with older hubs, surely it’s just the same thread?
You could very well be right! I don’t trust myself to drill it properly though which is why I’m suggesting to buy the bolt from the newer Schlumpf assuming the threads match up
