So to clarify. When I get my Schlumph, should I buy new cranks from Florian? I cannot use the cranks I already have? I have several KH Moments now. If the hub has problems and I need to send it in, will I have to use different cranks on my spare (non-GUni) wheel set-up?
The Isis hub is meant to be used with KH cranks. The Schlumpf cranks are all square taper as far as I know. So your Moments should be fine (assuming your getting the muni isis hub).
Thanks. That’s what I thought, but some of the above problems have me wondering.
I will denfinately consider getting one when I have the $$. What was this about a new broken hub, they are pretty expensive and that would be the last thing I would want. Also, how new are these, because lately there have been many threads about them.
The brand new broken Schlumpf story was a bearing problem that affected lots if not all of the previous generation of KH/Schlumpf hubs after only a few kilometers of riding. Schlumpf is still in the process of replacing all the broken hubs. I’m still waiting for my second one. So far it seems the newer model with beefed up bearings is much more reliable than its predecessor. I haven’t had any problems with mine since I got it end of last year. You will probably have to wait a while for yours.
I have some good tech questions regarding Schlumpf Hubs and a disk brake mounted to the AXLE. I have no experience with the hubs as of yet and wonder if anyone here could clarify on this thread or on the thread below:
One suggestion on geared hubs. If you brake through(attached to crank) the gearing, it puts a lot of stress on the gears,you would be using the gears to take up all the braking weight. If you brake at the hub it stops the wheel no gearing involved, and at the price of a geared hub, more undue stress through the gearing could have expensive/catastrophic results.
-Lobbybopster
im just wondering with the disc mounted to the Schlumpf axle wouldn’t there be a little bit of backlash when using the brakes?
if you stop the axle the hub would still have play within the gears and would cause a slight slipping feel,with a HS33 you wouldn’t feel this as bad,because the rim is slowed down.
any input to this?
-filotr14lsdude
If you use a drag brake, what additional strain does it place on the gears that your legs don’t when slowing down?
-KB1JKI
In my opinion it won´t stress the hub more than you can do by your leg power. the hubs are designed to withstand drops up to 5 feet, and even droping 2 or three feet with landing power on back leg will put more energie into the hub than any brake can do.
http://blog.ridetriton.com/__oneclick_uploads/2010/02/arne-schlumpf-3.jpg
I am not quite sure but for example, rolling down stairs with or without using magura brake I feel not the play within the gears
I guess smooth downhill braking is much better for the hub than changing leg brake power at each revolution.
Thank you Jogi, I am very reassured by your comments. They seem very reasoned, and insightful coming from someone with so much experience with the Schlumpf and other similar hubs!
“Hard spots” on the knurled bearing => NORMAL with brand new hubs
Hi guys!
As a follow-up to this message from me which I probably hosted in the “not-exactly-right” thread.
Good news!
I just received the following reply from Florian regarding the “rocky” feeling of the knurled bearing:
I hope Florian will forgive me for quoting his words without his upfront approval. This is not something I like to do much - but in this case I thought it would be worth, rather than uselessly trying to rephrase his words.
Cheers, MadC.
I have a question for those using the KH Schlumpf hub with the KH frame. The problem I have is that even after torquing the bearing bolts to 6Nm I still experience slipping. For example, while riding in high gear trying to slow down on a steep downhill I applied a heavy amount of back pressure and it broke loose. I took a look at the inside of the bearing cap and saw that a small amount of the paint had stripped off. I was wondering if anyone has had this problem. I’m thinking of striping the paint off the inside of the bearing to see if it will hold at the required spec of 5-6Nm. What I’m looking for here is some feedback.
By the way you that ride these things are in great shape. I have had my hub for just one week and I find riding in high gear is taking me into a whole new level of fitness.
I hear you about fitness - it is great. The other day I rode 12 miles on an ungeared 36 - first time in months and months. It felt so slow and easy and like I couldn’t push anywhere near hard enough to get any exercise.
On the 6nM - that’s what I use and it has been working with no slipping. Less on the other side. Not sure what to try. You don’t want to go much tighter or you risk premature bearing death. Maybe 7nM would be ok? Maybe shoot Florian an email. And post about what happens.
Good luck!
I used 5nM on both sides and it has not slipped so far (about 100km). But a small amount of paint has been stripped off too.
I had mine slip today, when I shifted up after a lot of MUni riding in low gear. (Wound up on the ground, of course). There is a lot of force on those parts, so part of it may be that your 6Nm torque didn’t remain at 6Nm; mine had definitely loosened since I last checked/tightened it.
Blue loctite on the bolts could improve their ability to stay at recommended torque.
It could also be helpful to clean any crap off the bearings and the bearing holders; when it slips, it strips out the powder coating, which then sits on the knurled surface and probably messes up the fit.
My new precious arrived today, just waiting for the frame to arrive:
(click to embiggen)
I’m riding with 4 Nm since 600 km now and it has not slipped (at least I did not notice). And I did never check the bolts again after mounting the wheel. Maybe I should check them before I ride the Marathon in Düsseldorf. On the other hand: Never touch a running system!
That’s the most beautiful picture of a unicycle part I have ever seen. It looks so royally 
Do you have to lube the shift button mechanism?
I’m assuming that the internal oil/grease does not get to the shift mechanism (or it would be leaking everywhere??) so should I be lubing under the shift buttons? If so just general machine oil?
I don’t think you have to lube under the shift buttons or it would have been included in the general maintenance instructions. Most of the shifting mechanism is integrated with the rest of the hub internals, and thus lubricated by the oil that you insert through the normal lube screw opening. The buttons themselves need no oil. How the oil is contained and not coming out of the same whole as the shift shaft, I don’t know. Maybe by gravity and the layout of the hub shell?
If you still doubt, shoot Florian an email.
In fact the hub is leaking through the bearing on one side but I agree with Klaas Bil that there is no need to lube the buttons. If you use oil with lower viscosity than the Schlumpf grease it’s leaking more of course. I use sewing machine oil and/or Schlumpf grease (whichever I find faster 
) and I have not had any problems.