She said she lubed it after 2000 km, but I’m unsure if it was just during her travel through Europe or not. And I would like to know what is recommended about that.
Yes, it was during my Europe Trip. It nowadays gets way less attention.
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Does anyone here have access to this test screw?
I fancy double checking my #M0274 hub is on the clear list from the fault before I build it into a new wheel.
I have asked Florian but wondered if someone here has one - perhaps in the UK (long shot!)
Website no longer online but I took a screenshot
There’s a bit of info from years past about this topic, but I’m not sure if it applies to the latest version of the hub. Should aluminum spacers be used when installing crank arms?
Also, is there a source in the USA for purchasing replacement crank bolts?
I used 2mm spacers on my hubs and don’t regret it.
I think officially you don’t need to use a spacer but if that’s the route you opt for then you don’t want to aim to try and close the gap of the inner crank face with the on-hub pressure rings. You should just leave a gap.
But I have it on good authority from people who should know what they’re saying that using a spacer is logical and best practice.
Axle bolts - I know they’re available from UDC UK and they ship internationally.
Otherwise you’d have to order from Florian directly.
Hope this helps 
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Thanks for the info! I also went with spacers for the installation, otherwise there was a 2-3mm gap of bare splines between the crank arm and pressure ring. While it’s not directly mentioned in the instruction booklet included with the hub, there is mention that the pressure rings “guide the pressure of the cranks to the snap rings underneath and thus prevent possible damage to the ball bearing due to axial load”. I read that to mean the crank arm (or spacer, if needed) should press up against the pressure ring.
I’m about 1,500km into this hub since October and I’ve had the crank arm (right side) come loose a couple times, and now starting to get intermittent creaking/clunking and trying to figure out where it’s coming from. I hoped it wasn’t from the bearings getting bound up due to pressure from the crank arm.
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Have you tried to put a bit of Loctite? This usually helps a lot with cranks becoming loose on a Schlumpf hub.
I haven’t tried Loctite yet but that’ll be the next step if it backs out again. Bolts are coated in Phil Wood’s so I’ll need to give everything a proper cleaning before switching to threadlock.
I should have done more digging before asking a question in this topic. There is a great collection of community-posted resources related to my initial question in your topic below, including instructional videos you’ve posted. Thank you!
https://unicyclist.com/t/schlumpf-2022-build-questions
P.s. I was experiencing a significant creak/clunk coming from the hub (confirmed not from pedals). Ultimately I ended up reinstalling the crank arms without spacers. The “pressure rings” are really stuck against the bearing following my installation with spacers. I gave up trying to free them. In any case, the creak went away so I’ll probably continue riding without spacers and see how it goes.
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I have a strange thing happenning on my hub, when shifting (mostly when upshifting).
When I shift, the gear doesn’t change right away. Sometimes I can go up to 4-5, or even more rotations before it finally clicks and I can accelerate. I don’t know if I go into freewheel or if it is just that the speed takes some time before engaging.
Has anybody an idea of what could be happenning ?
I’ve had that and I believe it is due to the hub only shifting when it isn’t under any load from the cranks.
It’s why some find a quick pulse of the brake helps to force the shift, and it is probably why I find shifting when on total flat / smooth and level ground the easier and most predictable.
Uphill I think is harder as by the very nature of going up hill you’ll be torquing the cranks to climb and for a shift to go through you kind of need to gain speed to carry you up the incline and then relax off the pedalling torque.
I don’t think it is a fault of the hub or anything like that
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I agree with @mindbalance. The hub can’t shift when under load. So you’ll want to relieve a bit of pressure after having pushed the button. I have 2 tips to help you:
- Apply a brief pressure on the brake lever ;
- Quickly push your frame to the back and then pull it back in place.
The first tip is probably easier to start with, but the second is IMHO the best one as it can also help you shift at low speed (e.g. when going up hill).
Hope this help! 
BTW, if you would have gone freewheel, your butt would have known about it 
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I do both to help shifting, and it works quite well.
I’m pleased to know the problem apparently doesn’t come from my hub
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There’s a catch, though. Which type of brake do you use? Rim brake, external disc brake, inboard disc brake? The second one can prevent shifts, as it applies its force through the cranks.
I use a brakefast. The uni was originally equiped with a rim brake, and it felt really bad. Since mounted on my road uni, it has a disc brake with a good light tubeless tire, carbon rim, aero spokes (I broke 2 this week, don’t really know why). And I have done 565 km on it.
Alright then!
You may simply need more practice. There’s a simple exercise you can work on to get used to the shifting mechanism. Find a nice and quiet line. Start to ride and upshift then downshift at each half-revolution. If you repeat this exercise enough times, you should feel that you are able to shift more confidently and faster than before.
That looks SO annoying to do…
What about going on a long tour with many hills, forcing me to use both gears as much as possible and shifting often ?
The fact is that you can probably shift more times on a 5-minute session than on an 100 km hilly ride. So you’d better invest 5 minutes from time to time to progress - before your 100 km rides
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Hmmm… @Maxence’s ‘simple exercise’ is way beyond my skill level at present - in fact I thought it was a thing of myth that only gods could do! (hang on, I guess he is one of the unicycle gods…)
I wonder what proportion Schlumpf riders can shift up and down again in the course of a single rev? I’m sure I’m not the only one who can sometimes barely manage that in the course of a single ride! I must add it to my long list of skills to work towards
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Well, let’s say it is easy to describe this exercise, but it’s not easy to achieve
It’s more of the final step of a common exercise. The first step is to ride in low gear, shift to high gear when you feel it, then ride a few meters, downshift to low gear when you feel it, and repeat. I agree the first times will be hard and you won’t achieve to shift at each revolution. But you should progress pretty fast with this exercise, and the few meters between each shift should quickly be reduced
And, as I said earlier, it can just take a few minutes before each of your rides, just to warm up.
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