Schlumpf hubs: general discussion

I measured the space between the disc and the spokes and it comes just under half an inch. Which is too little to fit a current caliper as everyone has switched to dual pistons. Lobbybopster dealt with this problem using a Coda caliper - single piston. I’m trying to find one, but no luck yet. Anyone can point me to a single piston model still in production, that would be great. I’m also looking at the second hand market.

Another option would be a cable operated disc caliper, they seem thinner but I have yet to find dimensions on the web. Looks like the Shimano CX77 could be a good candidate -single side- or the TRP Spyre but the dual side operation could make it too thick.

I read somewhere that calipers for trial bikes are narrower, but then again can’t quite find dimensions out there.

I can also gain a couple of mm by bringing the disc closer to the frame, won’t be enough for a regular hydraulic caliper though.

I measure a minimum space needed between the disk and spokes on my TRP Spyre mechanical caliper as 11/16". Looks like it would be too thick.

Thanks Jim!
I might order a Shimano then, just to be able to measure it! And I can always send it back.

Anyone here has a spare Coda or other single piston caliper, I’m taking it! Even better if you’re located in Europe.

Does Schlumpf innovations ever respond to emails?

I have been trying to get parts for a broken schlumpf hub for 3 months.

Sent him a list of what was needed March 1st, said they would ship it a week later, never heard from them again and wont reply to any emails.

I was pretty successful communicating with Schlumpf through the office manager. Not sure it’s appropriate to copy her email into this thread, but PM me if you need it.

Retro Triton Schlumpf Build with 32h Rim

I’m taking this thread back 10 years with my recent retro Schulmpf Triton 29er build:

Build highlights:

Triton Frame purchased from Sidd here on the forums

WTB Ranger Tough 29 x 3.0 tubeless tire

KH One Saddle and KH bars with brake bash guard.

Milled out KH Moment cranks

Magura Rim Brake with custom handle attachment made from a Magura mount and washers

Schlumpf hub #083 (acquired from Corbin) Laced to a 32h Surly Rabbit Hole rim (great lightweight 50mm wide tubeless rim). I had to do some special spoke lacing, but it works fine so far.

I chose this odd wheel setup because this rim was the only rim brake compatible rim that also allowed for a good tubeless wheel. I prefer rim brakes and my hub is too old for disc. The hub is also likely out of any warranty.

Note - since taking the pics I had to sand the anodization off of the rim sidewalls to reduce brake squeal.

Spoke lacing notes:
Lacing a 32h rim to a 36h hub involves skipping a hole on opposite sides of each hub flange. I decided to skip holes directly across from each other, and to match the hole skipped on both hub flanges in order to even out tension on the rim as well as possible. I chose the most damaged looking spoke hole to skip and the other on the opposite side. I also had to bevel the spoke holes on both sides ( older hub had only 1 side beveled) since skipping a hole causes 1/2 of the spokes to be oriented backwards coming out of the hub.

With the Schlumpf hub and the Rabbit hole rim, Spoke lengths for a 3x 32h pattern were 293mm, and a 36h 3x pattern were 287mm.

I had to buy spokes that varied in length between the 2 patterns (and even had to buy 8 spokes longer than the 32h length). The spokes angling back over the skipped hole (2 holes away from the skipped holes) had to be 295mm. There were 8 of these. The next spokes angling over the skipped holes (4 holes away from the skipped holes) were 291mm. The next set of 8 (proceeding out from the skipped holes again) should be 289mm long (I used 291mm and ground the ends down). The final set of 8 should be 287mm long (I used 289mm and ground the ends down). I chose 16mm long spoke nipples to maximize the threaded length (in case my spoke lengths were too short). The picture of the hub and spokes shows How the angle of the spokes gets more perpendicular to the hub/rim as the spokes crossing over the skipped holes get farther from them.

NOTE - the hub pic has a few optical illusions: None of the spokes touch the hub flanges even though it looks that way in the hub pic. Also, one of the spokes looks damaged in the hub pic, but its not.

This wheel was a little more difficult to true (had a bit of a hop), but now that its done, it seems just as solid as any other uni wheel I’ve built. Time will tell I guess.

Triton Schlumpf Build - Brake Pics

Just in case anyone was curious about the brake adapter in the prev post. The rusty washers are actually quite comfortable for braking. :thinking:

That’s half a Magura holder? Neat!

Yes - a 1/2 Magura holder. The shape is good as it clears the central bar and puts the washers closer to the fingers.

It doesn’t really look that outdated to me. The saddle certainly isn’t.

Looks nice, assuming you are ambidextrous for braking. I would be slightly concerned that the handle wouldn’t run smoothly with the asymmetric force, or that it’s pivoting axle would wear out because of it.

You described it very well, it would work as a refererence for someone doing the same thing.

I couldn’t spot it.

Good job all in all, and nice muni!

This sounds like the best argument for running a rim brake instead of a disc brake since it transmits zero stress to the gearing and uses the entire diameter of the wheel for its braking force.

Yeah wearing out the gears prematurely on my £1300 hub doesn’t sound like something I want, but I also don’t want to grind my sexy rim down :frowning: The sooner they make an internal disk Schlumpf the better (Or make those adaptors shown above!)

use all the spokes.

Use a disc mounted to the hub, pretty much no stress on the gears.


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Soon more pictures as it’s getting ready!

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Can you send infos about the making process? I’m willing to have one too!

Thanks for the kind words above.

I’ve ridden this setup intensely for the past few weeks and the wheel has stayed true. I have not noticed any signs of extra stress on the hub.

Yes, my build is sort of half-retro. I really like the KH Zero/One saddle, and the newer tubeless rims/tires (I ride in the thorn capital of the world I think)

The brake handle operates smoothly, but I’ve had other, older Magura handles break on the thin part underneath the bolt mounting the handle to the lever. Its possible my custom brake could’ve caused the break, but the handles were also 30 years old so that didn’t help.

If anyone is interested in more details on 32h rim >>> 36h Schlumpf lacing I’d be happy to discuss in more detail , and/or provide pics. Just PM me.

Schlumpf grease type question

Hi All,

I ran out of Schlumpf’s grease and I wanted to know if the following type of grease is the current one used by Florian: Shell Gadus S2 V220 2
I found the “2” is related to NLGI consistency but wasn’t sure if it matters or not (since there is “0” type as well).

Thanks for the help!

I do not remember the exact reference. However, several riders (including Pierrox) found some equivalent grease that were cheap (in the case of Pierrox it is some transmission grease).

Let’s hope one of them can chime in :slight_smile:

Land Rover swivel grease!

Thanks!