Hi ya’ll,
Try to make a small thin piece of high tensile steel/or CRES to go as a thin band along side of the flange. Match the hole to hole distance and diameter of the holes to the front and back of the broken hole, drill them in the piece. Then use a non broken set of three holes to find the middle hole in the piece and drill it. Then lace the just in front and just behind spoke through the plate and hub and if you like, put a small washer on the spoke with the broken hole to take up the thickness difference, and lace it up, a dutch lap repaired hub flange. Real old school!
Update on this: when I first installed the Spirit cranks (using a torque wrench), the right side had perhaps 1cm of clearance on my 2009 KH 29er frame. After my third ride with the new cranks, the right crank was loose. I reinstalled it, again with the torque wrench. About three rides later, it came loose again, and I again reinstalled it with the torque wrench. With each reinstallation, the crank crept closer to the frame on the axle; after the second one, it was completely flush, to the point where the uni was unrideable; I had to push it up and down my block until it had ground off enough metal that the wheel could spin. I hope I don’t have to tighten it again.
This is why ISIS cranks need a crank stop. 1cm of creep on the axle is a pretty serious issue.
Totally agree. It’s understandable given simple trigonometry (1 degree taper = no creaking, but noticeable lateral movement given extremely slight change in tightness). Until the KH/Schlumpf hub / disc setup is updated, disc compatibility will take some work / frame mods to make it work, for sure.
So. With our version of Isis with no hard stop there is this tendency for the cranks to sit further and further on the hub
Forgive me I’m no engineer so if these are stupid questions or statements
My understanding was the newer harder aluminum alloy in spirit cranks was less prone to this. However I on re tightening my crank bolts on my newest uni (after about 10km) found my crank bolts rubbing the frame
I’ve done the same fis as my first, grinding more of the outside of the frame, putting blue locktite on the crank bolt.
And tightening it as little as possible. I’m super close at just 28nm
Is it retightening that is the problem ( so avoid too many proceedures involving removing the bolt) or is it just time
Are ther other things that might help. When I changed from moments to spirits on my first schlumpf ( my first ever crank change) I found there was
Loctite on the Isis splines from the original build
Would this help to reduce or delay the cranks creep up the 1 degree taper?
Everything works right now but keen to keep things that way
It’s true that the Spirit cranks are made from a tough and hard (7050) alloy. They’re not prone to migration on the splines under normal circumstances - for example the EDB (External Disk Brake) Standard functions exactly as intended on a Standard hub with the spacer between bearing housing and crank.
However, intentionally under-torquing the install bolt to keep the cranks slightly further out on the axle (to increase clearance), as is being done here to help improve compatibility with the KH/Schlumpf hub means that there’s still room for migration simply because it’s not tight. Occasional crank removal and re-install won’t be an issue, but I could see how extremely frequent crank changes might cause some wear and tear over time. If it’s working it may be best not to touch it =).
I’ve finally got myself a set of 140 cranks for my first generation Schlumpf Post Your Current Projects Here - a definite improvement in shifting over the 152.5s it came with, I can now shift with my feet in my preferred riding position. I suspect at some point I’ll try it with some 125s, though alu ones of those are at least readily available unlike 140s - for now I reckon I still need the extra control and torque.
I’ve been considering getting a Schlumpf hub and giving the whole geared thing a try. I must say that with all the talk about clearance issues and cranks coming loose etc. i have to think that it might just be a better idea to run a rim brake as opposed to a crank mounted disk brake. I have a few of the crank mounted disk brakes and like them but sure would like to avoid as many issues as possible if i decide to go with a Schlumpf. Anyone have any thoughts on the rim versus disk brake on the geared hub? Also, i apologize in advance if I’ve posted this in the wrong section as i know some folks get worked up about that.
I’m running a Magura HS-33 hydraulic rim brake on a Hunter 36 with a Schlumpf. At this point it’s mostly seen road and gravel road use. The short answer: it seems fine and I’m happy (and the Hunter frame may not be easily disc compatible).
When I switched my KH 29 from rim to disc (non-Schlumpf) I noticed a huge difference, but the 29er ends up in a lot of muck. The 36 doesn’t (yet).
I don’t mind the rim brake on the 36. I’m running 150s, so the cranks aren’t too short. I use the brake, but with the longer cranks I have a bit more control before things get crazy and I need to rely mostly on the brake to stop in a hurry.
I’ve wondered about the braking forces through the gearing system too with rim vs disc. I know it’s cleared by Kris and Florian, but I think the rim brake still puts less stress on the gearing system as the brake stops the tire almost directly via the rim. The disc stops the tire via transmitting the force through the gearing system with effectively a long lever acting against the disc.
Once again, things are given the OK from the designers so it must be good. I just think back to the early days of disc brakes on bikes when some frames got destroyed by seatstays getting subjected to forces they weren’t designed for.
All this being said, since the hub does have the OK for disc use, if I end up with a Schlumpf in a muni someday it will be disc. The stopping smoothness with a disc in the muck is so much better than a rim brake.
My g26 I initially set up with a rim brake
I was getting on reasonably well with it
But I upgraded to spirit cranks and a disc as soon as they were available. They were a bit tricky to set up initially but now working, no more difficult to maintain than the rim brakes
Im very sure were my technique better, and were I more confident in keeping my wheel completely true ( I’m worried I’m going to mess up my wheel build if I start messing with the nipples - so I get it tired by LBS every now and again) I’d be very happy with the rim brakes
I however found modulating braking to be very difficult. Again I’m sure this is mostly my poor technique
With disc brakes modulating the brake is smooth and feels very natural. As a consequence I use the brake much much more
Yes the setup was a chore, but I would do it again (and did). Much easier second time
I learnt a few lessons, go for a monolithic disc, not a floating disc. And get some shorter bolts for the caliper ( I hate cutting bolts and messing up the threads)
I’m using a hope ‘saw’ 183mm floating rotor
Chosen as it was on sale and the gold center piece looks awesome next to the gold schlumpf button
Problem was the centre portion of the disc and especially the rivets joining the outer disc part were rubbing on the post to IS adaptor
Just the upper part
Switched out the adaptor (a few times)
I found least rub with the hope adaptor bought from chain reaction
But still needed a fair bit of filing to get it to clear
So end of the day it’s a really nice rotor, and looks awesome. I had to do quite a lot of filing in other places - inside bearing housing, outside bearing housing plus the brake adaptor. It’s just finding this out and fixing it meant breaking down and rebelling this many many times
Second time just got roger at UDC to put it all together for me
Clarks 180mm rotor has a longer steel legs before they join the ali carrier so the rivets don’t foul, I have an Aztec 2 piece and knew it would rub but literally 2 minutes with a file and all is well with loads of clearance. I have had to do that will a few rotors and takes less time to do than screwing the rotor onto the hub/crank :).
Crank mount discs and some hub set ups are not a quick fit anyway with alignment issues needing facing of caliper and or mounts, washers, disck truing etc so you should expect fetteling and filing when doing any brake to get it working well without rubbing, squealing etc but once done they are awesome and you would never go back to rim brakes
When I was in need of Schlumpf grease I contacted Florian directly and he sold me 1 liter (= 1000ml = 200 syringes!) for 30 Euros (about US$ 40). I kept my share and spread that rest among German unicyclists. Doing it that way would be much cheaper than spending big money on small syringes.
Those of us on this side of the pond don’t have the option to run down to Florian’s shop so I buy all my grease from MuniOrBust. I rather appreciate the no-mess feature of his syringe system. No more often than I use a pack of 5, it’s more than worth it to me. Keep up the good work MuniOrBust!
I’m on the same side of the “pond” as Yeti, and really not sure how to get as good a deal as he did - I suspect it will be far easier and cheaper (at least in the short term) to buy some from MuniOrBust.
The question is, did the 30 Euros you’re quoting include shipping and taxes (I’m assuming shipping 1l of grease from Switzerland even to the UK wouldn’t be cheap)? I’m happy to hear instructions on how to do it that way.
I just called Florian and everything was very informal. Florian has a cooperation with some German manufacturer. So he sent the grease from Germany. Shipping was free. No taxes.
Maybe shipping to UK is a little more expensive. But as Germany as well as UK is part of EU, there should be no toll.
