The 50% step is just perfect. No need for adjustment … 
mine did not come with a cranksetter bolt with a hole. Guess I need to email Florian to get one? No rush, I’m lovin my 150s!
Just use a standard KH crank bolt (8mm hex head) as the setter. Works perfectly.
Hi David,
I purchased the 29114 (2 Nm handle) and the 28546 (2 mm metric hex blade). It cost about $50 with shipping. I am very happy with it. I tighten up the buttons screws and there is a clear “click” when the tension is reached. It makes me feel much more comfortable adjusting the buttons myself. I would recommend it, and it is less than half the price of the Swiss torque wrench that Florian lists on his web site.
Scott
Thanks Terry! The only one UDC has in stock is of the extra long variety. Would that one work?
Thanks Scott! That is exactly the info I was looking for! I’m ordering them now.
You could put a few extra washers on it I suppose.
The extra long ones should work just fine.
The current step up is actually about 55%, not 50% as many ppl seem to think. But since you will mostly ride in high gear, the step down is really what counts. And that is only about 35%. Feeling better now?
To be precise, it’s 17/11, resulting from the number of cogs of the respective cog wheels.
Not really. I do wonder how it could be, having a smaller step up as well as a reduction (for a 36er), but I have been told that making these changes is not so easy, so for now it is what it is. I’ll likely sell mine next year, but at least now I can say that I tried it 
In reality, now that I have tried a geared hub, I find that my love for the 29" wheel is pretty much where I want to be, though having a 26er for technical terrain is pretty nice. I’m leaning now toward wider hubs and disc brakes with a frame to match, so my guni money will feed those toys 
NuVinci
DIBS!
Yes, I NEED another hub. Must have in order to survive.
We’ll see if I have the necessary um, pocket change when and if the event comes to pass.
Geoff
I am having a problem with the bearing seal on one side on my Schlumpf hub on my KH36. Turns out, my frame was rubbing on the seal without me realizing it. Grease was leaking out on that side for a couple of weeks, and when I had my wheel off to fix a flat, the bearing cover/seal flopped loose. I pushed it back in place. In a subsequent ride, the cover would occasionally fall out of place and rub for a while, and then fall back in place. I am not sure what actually holds it in place. I think I need to replace the grease that came out. Maybe new grease in there would help hold it in place.
That sucks, but I had a similar issue with leakage, so what I did was grind down the inside of the frame and caps that were touching the seals.
I only had to take of less than 1mm, and that created just enough clearance to eliminate the pressure, and stopped the leakage. Without sufficient clearance, it was also acting like a dam, trapping grease, dirt and other contaminants, which basically turned it into a nasty sludge, and that would likely start grating on the seals like sandpaper.
What i wonder is if you may have too much lube in there, causing excessive outward pressure on the seals, or at least one of them, causing it to be pushed out. Just a thought. I’m also thinking that too much lube might be as bad as too little. Too bad there’s not a "dip stick’ that could indicate the current level! :o
Andy, I had the exact same problem. If you look at the seal, it has some (four, I believe) gray/black dots on the inside where the seal was clearly glued on before. I cleaned it up a bit and used some small dabs of superglue on just those spots. I also filed down my frame. I haven’t had any problems since and this was about a month ago.
I did grind down the frame. I think before that the frame was touching the seal and it was staying with the frame and not turning with the hub at some point. I think the grease is mostly gone now, not sure how much of an issue that is, but I think I will put a small amount back in. I just need to get the seal to stay in place now. I was hoping the grease would hold it in place, but I will look into super glueing it in place. Funny, the hub on my KH36 is the new improved one, and the one that I got a year ago in my KH24 has given me zero problems, and I abuse it with lots of rough trail riding.
Hello everybody!
I’m considering buying a geared KH26, but after reading these last posts I have some doubts:
· Is this friction between Schlumpf and KH forks a major issue?
· Is a good solution to file the bottom insides of the fork? (It seems to better do it first place before it cause any damage to the hub…)
· Does it weakens the uni frame?
· How many clearance is necessary between hub and frame (1mm is enough?)
· Or better wait for a new batch of KH26 with this problem solved…? (I think Kris said there will be an additional fabrication control for this item with new unis).
· Any other concern with new Schlumpfs?
Thanks in advance!
Luis
Don’t agree, exact step is 56.25% (ring gear : 64 teeth / planet gear : 14 / sun gear : 36)
Schlumpf added new protection rings which made the hubs a little wider. So they won’t fit into common frames without grinding them (the frames) down. There was some manual being shipped with the hub providing guidance how to grind down the frame. Here you can find a copy of that manual.
With the latest batch of hubs that issue seems to be solved. The protection rings are still there, but nevertheless the hubs are smaller again. Just make sure you get a hub with serial number 500 or above.
I am running M0502 in my muni for a couple of weeks now without any issues and without grinding down the frame. I tried with a KH frame, Triton frame, and Surly frame. They all fit. And the hub came without that grind down instructions.
To answer your other questions: no issues at all. My latest Schlumpf hub is doing great (just like the other two older ones do).
Ups. Was not aware of that. 17/11 is what Florian Schlumpf told me when I visited him this year at his workshop.
From the numbers you posted, how do you calculate the resulting gear ratio?
Schlumpf hight ratio = 1 + (36/64) = 1.5625
look here : Epicyclic gearing - Wikipedia
and details (red combination is Schlumpf in high ratio, teeth values added in the chart) :
