UDC NZ has some!
Steve, I have the same thing. I think I can see/feel the play happening in the large bearing (the one that was changed for a larger size in the recent redesign) on the side of the hub body. My rim knocks from side to side a couple of mm when holding the frame still.
Corbin - I think you said you had had the same thing, and saw mine do it at UNICON. I don’t remember if you got it fixed or worried about it? Roger thinks it may be a tolerance issue with the bearing size and could be fixed with a very fine shim, but that would require disassembling the hub.
Practically though, this may have been happening for most of the time I have had it and I’ve ridden this hub for a good 3000km. I’m not expecting it to fail suddenly on this.
Sam
40 ft-lbs is too high. I use 30 with blue locktight. Occasionally I’ll have to retighten them, but not very frequently.
Yeah, my KH36 with the older style hub has this problem too; the wheel knocks side to side. I think it is the bearings that have the slop in them that cause it. I’ll take a closer look and make sure it isn’t the bearing moving in the housing – that could be shimmed.
corbin
That’s really weird – are you sure you are pushing the shaft in before you tightening the bolt? Not doing that can easily cause one to strip the end.
I haven’t stripped any of my bolts, and we have three hubs.
-corbin
When you use locktite, you should not retight the bolts. You basically break the glued connection between the axle and the crank when you do that. I never touched my bolts since the cranks were mounted 800 km ago.
Also, when the wheel has play in the large bearings, they may have the old known problem although you don’t see it. The bearing has an outer and an inner plastic cap, to protect it from dirt. When I had the problem, the outer plastic ring popped out and I could see the balls and the destroyed bearing cage (or what was left over from it).
But if the black ring is still in place, the cage may be destroyed anyway with the result that the balls float around in a lose order, causing the play of the wheel as they may all be on just one side. It is possible to pop out the black ring manually, very carfully, and not fully, to have a look behind it. But of course on your own risk. But I think it is the only method to get a clear answer whether the bearing is OK or not.
I also did that on my new generation replacement hub, just to confirm that it was OK. I did that with a strong needle. As I said: VERY carefuly.
Hey,
I also agree that about 40 Nm (30 ft lbs) seems about right for tightening the axle bolts. Definitely it is highly recommended to use a proper torque wrench and not just wing it unless you have to (e.g. mid ride).
My personal preference (in general for maintenance, not just with this hub) is not to use loctite but rather to inspect regularly. However, without loctite the axle does come slowly looser and should be checked regularly. I usually check after a hard all-day ride or after every few more moderate rides. If you’d rather not check frequently, then loctite is recommended.
It would be ideal if the hex size could be larger and it’s something we are brainstorming about. It is difficult to do though, given that an M12 standard is needed for the bolt. M15 was tried early on and the axle was not strong enough with this bolt standard.
Kris
Different topic:
It is just frustrating when you have a new hub, a 36" uni but no spokes with correct length.
I hope I’ll get the spokes soon. For the time being I ride my 36" with the original hub 
Nice photos! Can you not get the spokes for a non-geared hub? As they are longer than those required for the KH/Schlumpf hub, any bikeshop with a spoke cutter should be able to cut them to the correct length.
Kris
Yeah the rod is pushed in. I had issues with beginning to round out the bolts when I used a hex key and a hex adapter for a socket wrench although I never received the hex adapter that florian started to send with the newer hubs.
Of course I do have the old spokes from the non-geared hub - which I currently ride. But I want to keep them, just in case my hub needs to make “holidays” in Switzerland. I’ve spoken to some people who waited ages until their hubs got repaired or replaced. This would then allow me to build a non-geared wheel to continue riding 36".
I don’t ride my unicycle for anything other than hopping it with the seat-out. But, for those that do so many miles on theirs with a whopper-priced hub, are you all complimenting it with double butted spokes? Say, by DT Swiss?
Just one measure to lengthen the life of an already super expensive hub. Flange breakage/snappage is much less of a risk with DB spokes, even though it might not be an issue on these hubs for now. But, it’s good to be on the safe side… and save some rotational (dynamic) weight for fairly cheap!
I don’t want to save any rotational weight on my 36". The heavier, the more comfortable on long distance.
You must not ride up mountains 
The unlucky-lucky-unlucky-lucky man story…
Hi there!
At last, I could build up my new (and first ever) Guni this week-end, after a pretty painful period of time where I had all the parts ready but no time at all to assemble them.
For those of you who are interested by the hardware mix:
My Guni is a KH26 with KH handlebar, Magura brake, and a KH/Schlumpf hub (#M0265 :)).
For now, I’ve put a Marathon Plus tire, because on Friday I will ride up to L’Alpe d’Huez (a famous sloppy road in the Alps) with it - but my goal is to fit the standard offroad KH26 tire after that.
I decided to start with 167mm long cranks, but am already pretty convinced that moving down to 150 will be a good deal overall.
I actually did my first test ride on Sunday morning… first time ever that I was riding a Guni - if you read this post, I’m sure you can imagine my emotion!
The feeling is just great - absolutely different from a non-geared 26" or non-geared 36" uni. I’m not saying better, because I really love non-geared unis as well - but different. I love how this Guni becomes versatile, and I can’t wait putting it into the plane this Summer, instead of taking my non-geared 29" uni as I used to do.
I rode for a few kilometers in the valley, from home and mainly across the city, in high gear - and then decided to stop (yes… I did not practice yet the on-the-fly change of gears! :o) in order to switch down to the lower gear, as I had reached the start of a long climbing road (good for my training!).
Here, I realized that my left (silver) button was… missing! 
I decided to walk back on the very same itinerary, carefully looking for my beloved silver button… and (guess what?) I found it after around 20 minutes of walking: it was here laying on the ground waiting for me!
I figured out that probably I should have put one drop of threadlock, in order to secure the 2 buttons in place - but had not done that and did not have any threadlock in my backpack anyway. I decided to continue my ride, but I would of course very carefully look at the buttons from time to time, and screw them in anytime either would tend to unscrew.
Because I rode my way up in low gear, I will not extend too much on this topic, and will directly jump to… the next day, which is… yesterday Monday.
As every morning, I picked up my uni to commute to work, but this day was of course unusual, since I replaced my usual ungeared KH36 with… the Guni of course! I’m actually just a few kilometers away from my work, and it was a pleasure to ride through the city on a Guni (perhaps I will not say that with 150’s cranks… but at least with 167’s, I found it pretty easy to control).
I parked my Guni, and when my working day was over, I went back to it… to discover that my (more beloved than ever) silver button was missing again!!! 
I was pretty clear the button had left home again, but this time it was more hopeless to find it, with all the traffic, also the fact that quite a few hours had already spinned since I lost the part, etc.
Without surprise, I did not find the button yesterday - and this morning again I searched for it but failed to find it.
Call me the unlucky-lucky-unlucky-lucky man!
Lucky to be the happy owner of a Guni.
Unlucky to have lost the silver button during my first ride.
Lucky to have found it back on the road.
Unlucky to have lost it again during my 2nd ride.
Bottom line to this: I guess the use of a threadlock is almost required, right, to hold the Schlumpf buttons into position?
I have reached this morning Florian, in order to try buying from him a pair of Silver buttons and a pair of Gold buttons (just in case…), but his autoreply saying that they might not be very responsive these days does not give me too much hope that my Guni will be equipped with a Silver button soon…
I hope the same -bit ridiculous- story will not happen to one of you.
Cheers, MadC.
Did you tighten the little set screw in the middle of each button? By doing that, you fix the button to the shifting shaft that runs through the hub. It should stay there without thread lock. If you don’t, the button can easily unscrew due to riding vibrations and then fall of without notice.
Oh, and welcome to Guni world!
Hi Klaas Bil
I am very pleased to hear what you are saying… because I never done anything like that for sure!
I have most probably been a victim of my over-over-enthusiasm in building my first Guni, and probably I just skipped the last instructions in the manual. 
Shame on me - but the end of the story is pretty nice I think: at least, the hardware is not guilty!
Many thanks for your fast reply.
Cheers, MadC.
This is the actual part of the manual which my eyes did not read:
Use a 2.0mm Allen wrench to firmly tighten the gear shift buttons. Use the little wrench that comes with every hub to hold the button against rotation. Check to make sure you cannot loosen the buttons by hand.
I will then not order a pair of Silver and a pair of Gold buttons, now that I know that they can be locked - but I’ll have to order at least 1x Silver button to replace the one I lost.
I love the ridiculous side of all this story… but I would still have lived without it I guess! 
Cheers, MadC.
Now you are double lucky because you have both: you know that you have to fix those buttons, AND you still have your over-over-enthusiasm (I trust).
I do. If weight was a problem the geared hub would be in the garage.
You could take a couple ounces of water out of the hydration pack and the heavier spokes are balanced out. … or leave one gel pack home. … or not drink the last inch of beer in the last bottle last night.
I agree…the weight of the geared hub does not matter, but the weight of spokes, rim, and tire does. When climbing - minimizing not maximizing rotational weight helps. My comment was directed towards this quote
as having more rotational weight does not make a climb more comfortable.