Oh yes, I remember the first time getting up on my KH36 and riding around a field with a hard grassy surface. Was hooked from that moment.
From my experience with “hard” upd’s on 29” and 36” onto the road, I found that with the 29”, I had less (no) time to react and went down onto elbow knee and wrist. With 36” being higher, I have always landed on feet then fallen forward onto knees and hands (with kneepads and wrist guards), a more controlled upd.
Are there people here who are planning to build up a new schlumpf hub (32h) with the 36” Braus rim?
Meaning 100mm width but using the new hub design?
I have a feeling / recall from threads and other discussions that the BrakeFast 32h adapter built up a better, stronger wheel due to flange spacing being wider(?)… and the new hubs for a 36” wheel on the 32h/100mm option being seen as likely a weaker option for this size wheel.
Or is it the case that with the BrakeFast being an add on adapter with its own weaknesses - would the strength advantage from the BF (if there is one) spoke angle / wheel build wise, be in effect cancelled out by the BF’s inherent adapter weakness?
That’s a faffy way of me trying to ask:
Old Hub + BF adapter + Braus rim
New 32h 100mm hub + Braus rim
Is the BF option still the stronger wheel build route?
I am now using elastic spokes in my 36er 100mm hub. I’ve solved months of issues having spokes elongatin in such a crazy setup with almost vertical spokes using an inner disc hub… a good built wheel with steel spokes is a lot easier than mine. No way a steel spoke wheel is weak if it is well built. So don’t mind 100mm inner disc hub: they work great if the wheel is well build. A symmetric wheel is a must only if you can’t get a good strong wheel… a symmetric hub will make it easier to achieve an average built wheel
I also wear size 40 and i can shift on 150s with my ankle wearing five ten impact high shoes.
Have you actually seen a clever solution to this somewhere? I cant see anything from a quick search and I cant imagine how that would be possible?
Here is a photo but I don’t find where it came from. (I added the notes)
Wow they are both impressive innovations! Maybe something to consider for my flikflok
Thanks for your reply and input.
I do get that a good wheel build is key to any wheel running true.
I guess I’m still wondering if those aiming for a Braus 36” Schlumpf if they’d prefer:
A) A brand new OldSkool hub (2015 version) with BrakeFast adapter- which gives slightly better spoke angles (I think)
B) 2022/23 32h 100mm hub laced directly to the Braus rim - with slightly narrower flange measurements and possibly weaker spoke angles.
I guess it could be much of a muchness - and the BrakeFast is an additional component being bolted into the mix which isn’t as secure has a new hubs drilled at 32h natively.
My second guess is - BrakeFast now solely serves the purpose of upgrading older hubs to use discs so people can still make sure of them - but that is would never be classed as “better” than the new 32h 2022/23 100mm hubs.
Choice B seems better to me. At least for the argument of the assembly and disassembly of the brakefast which is tedious. You have to consider that the maintenance of the hub is necessary at some point, at which point you have to disassemble the BF.
About the spoke tension, I’m waiting to see… I hope it’s not so bad…
Indeed, I planned to mount a 36" braus rim with the new schlumpf hub (disc and 32h).
At first, I thought to mount this hub with a 29" rim, but I revised my plans with the delay of delivery of the new hubs.
I am planning to mount a 36" Braus rim on a new hub. We’ll see how it works - and I hope spokes will break less often than with a BrakeFast!
*I have run a search on this but nothing has come back, so please let me know if I need to check somewhere else on the site.
I have a new KH 36", a 600 series Schlumpf hub was just installed, and we are having an issue with the disk brake mounting. It looks like the screws holding the disk to the crank arm stick out to the point that a spacer is needed, but with the spacer from the Spirit hub the crank arm is sticking too far out to completely grip the ISIS threads. My bike shop is saying (also based on their interpretation of the paperwork included with the unicycle, that I would need to sand down the sides where the frame holds the hub by about 5mm. Is this correct? Just before I completely void the warranty, I know someone has had to have run into this issue. Image included in case I did a poor job explaining the part that I would be lowering.
To fit a disc brake on a #600 Schlumpf hub, you’ll need either to sand down the frame or use spacers. The second solution is rarely the one that is used as the spacers have to endure a lot of stress so they tend to break.
If you want to run a disc brake on a Schlumpf hub without any modification, you need at least a #800. Please see this topic to know more about changes from a hub generation and the next one.
I think this video shows the filing down that was needed.
I am sorry to be the person to say this - but if I was using hub that was even technically compatible with the KH spirit cranks - I wouldn’t. It seems to me too risky - and I’d opt for maguras or BrakeFast.
Hope you get it sorted
I agree with you. External disc brake on a Schlumpf hub is pretty nasty.
Thanks for the feedback. To clarify (in simpleton terms), are you saying I should install a rim brake instead of disk?
Rim brake if your frame and wheel rim allow. It’s just simpler and you’re still grabbing the main rotating force.
Or rebuild the wheel with the BrakeFast - but this is more ghetto and complexities abound.
But if you want a disk this is it for all the symmetrical hubs.
In all honestly I get that the external system can work, but I wince when I see it as it feels like asking for premature hub failure.
Perfect. Looking at frame, it looks like there is a mount for the rim brake, and I am all for less modifications. I’m also up for advice, as while this is something I have dreamed about for 10 years, I by no means have a solid understanding of the process. I will pivot to the rim brake for now. Thanks for the quick feedback! I super appreciate it.
Just so you’re 100% sure. Your frame will need sometimes that looks like this for Magura and your rim will basically need to be a Dominator2/Stealth Nimbus rim so there’s somewhere for the brake to land its pads.
Not exactly that, but I will check with my bike shop. They would know better than I would.