Thanks Idlux, that answers my question on slippage.
Hello Jtrops, I agree that there should be a feature where the lower bearing cups offer more grip to the bearings.
Maybe bearings with a toothed section on their outer edge which would engage with grooved lower bearing cups⌠just a thoughtâŚ
Itâs really just the mock bearing on the one side that brings up my confusion. I have worked on geared bicycle hubs for decades, and they all need to have a fixed point of resistance for the hub to torque against. On bikes itâs usually anti-rotation washers that fit into the dropouts and fit against flats on the axle. The Schlumpf method seems to be an extension of this sort of anti rotation idea, but my question is why. Why not just bolt a flange directly to the upper bearing housing on the frame? It would be simple, effective, and repeatable. In fact installation would be no more work than installing a standard uni hub. Plus, it would never, ever slip.
Maybe they are worried about the extra torque on the frame.
Not sure if this is quite what you mean, but I always thought itâd be good if they had an arm coming out that went up into your frame, sort of like old-timey lollipop bearings. Then you can put your bearing cups on and tighten it in. Then itâd basically fit on any frame, with the right width/cup size 
Just FYI, there was a video posted a while back by Terry âUnigeezerâ Peterson that suggested putting a piece of aluminum foil tape in the bearing cup on the knurled bearing side of the Schlumpf hub. This gives the knurling something to âbiteâ into, and the adhesive side of the tape helps prevent spinning in the bearing cup. I happened to have a roll of this on hand, and tried it when I was assembling my G32. So far I havenât had any freewheel or slipping problems.
Thatâs an interesting idea. Iâll bear that in mind. Thanks Lance.
Donât focus on the slipping issue, the KH frame is already compatible with future Schlumpf hub modification (knurled area width will be larger on the bearing cap than on the frame side)
Hello B.B. Do you mean that the knurl on the bearing will be more pronounced on the bearing cap side thus giving increased grip 
No, something like this
Thanks B.B. I understand now what you mean. 
âA picture paints a thousand wordsâ
sorry im late,
i second Ldlux. Well said. Great thread. specially for those who not yet to enjoy a geard hub as yet. hope you do if you wish someday.
i wish they were more affordable specially in my profession. But save up they wont probably ever get cheaper and they are well build if im allowed to say that.
multiple ratios
It would be nice if there were a range of ratios to chose from and even have a service exchange system so you could have you ration changed. It cant be that hard to do.
I am looking forward to a 125mm version so I can build and oracle G36 with internal brake as I donât like the external break I have on my G32
Iâd love to see 1:2!
terry⌠i expect no less from you 
That would be for your 36er of course???
Wow that would be painful to crank up riding, or painful to require to conduct a upd at even 30% cadence. wouldnt be for my faint heartedness.
1:1.33 id be happier for the muni.
The 1.3 would be perfect for the 36⌠1.5 is too big a jump, for me at least 
I never rode with a schlumpf but I think that shifting from 1 to 2 on a 36er would be a big jump causing lots of inertia even with long cranks (150mm).
I reckon that you would have to slow down considerably before changing back down to 1, otherwise you would have to pedal madly in 1 to prevent a sudden braking effect.
If I could chose only one ratio option I would choose the existing schlumpf ratio but I think there would be a small market out there for a 1: 1.33+ ratio especially in the 36er community.
P.S. I consider cranks an important part of the equation and so I tend to think of the schlumpfs two settings and the crank length as a three point ratio.
Just to clarify⌠in my last post Iâm commenting on riding a schlumpf with a 1:2 gear ratio.
The 1.5 jump is very big and it gets proportionally worse the bigger wheel you have. Sometimes it doesnât catch for about 30 degrees and is a hell of a long way on a 36 ⌠it nearly caught me out today on my G32.
So is your uni in free wheel mode while youâre waiting for the gear shift to engage. 
Iâm thinking of learning to ride a freewheel uni with that scenario in mind so Iâve begun watching Waalrusâ freewheel videos .
If theyâre anything like planetary bike hubs (which I have used - while never having used a Schlumpf, so take my words as they are), then thereâs a tiny amount of freewheel before the gear change engages. According to the Schlumpf instructions, a way to check if itâs set up right is to change gear, pedal forward (with your hands, as the tyre is on the floor/stand still!) till engagement, and repeat until youâve done a full revolution, which should take 24 clicks. So 360/24=how much slack you have in which to soil your pants 
There is also apparently a way to sort of hold the button slightly short of full shifting, which allows you to hold it in a freewheel, if you so choose.