Hey.
I have wanted to put a tilt on my MUni saddle for ages. I was going to buy the rails and do it the right way, but I curtain Roger Daviestold me about hitting it with a hammer!
So I did!
It worked really well… I think:
More pics can be found at the bottom of this page
joe,
you can also take the seat off and bend the Miyata seat post holes down in the back and up in the front,or is that what you did only with a hammer?
(edit) oh i see that is what you did.hit the holes in the back,down a couple of times for even more tilt.
By far the best way (but not the cheapest) is to buy a GB4 seatpost. The post itself is much stronger than the Miyata ones, which tend to crease. The weld, too, is much stronger. The adapter sits at an angle of about 15 degrees.
Thomson seat tilt
That’s an inventive way to tilt your seat Joe. I recently installed a Thomson seatpost with a Kinport rails adapter onto my Unicycle. It is an awesome seatpost and I do not regret buying it. I am curious about the tilting aspect, because bicycle seatposts are designed to have the seat tilted forwards, since the seatpost is often angled backwards due to the triangle shape of a bike frame.
I installed mine backwards on purpose, to achieve a backwards tilt to see what all the fuss is about. Initially I installed it forwards, and the most it would tilt was zero degrees, unless tilted forwards. The clearly labelled “front” is now at the back, and I was wondering if other Thomson seatpost users also install theirs backwards. I am curious if it might make the setup any weaker, or if it will make no difference to the strength. I have it tilted up at about 6 degrees, and I am not yet sure about what an ideal angle for me is.
You would need a heavy duty pipe cutter to make it all the way through a Thomson post. The sidewalls are 2mm thick, and the front and back are 7mm thick, making an oval shaped hole in the middle. My pipe cutter had no trouble making it through the 2mm walls, but it had no chance of defeating the thick ends. A trusty hacksaw was much more efficient at hacking through for me.
That’s a really nice looking seatpost clamp you’ve got there. Have you got any closeups of it in any of your other photos? I can’t quite picture some aspects of it.
Cheers,
Andrew
I did this accidentally, by riding on it lots and having some big crashes, until it was permanently angled up like that. The only problem is that this weakens the already weak miyata seatpost, which in my case snapped at the top bit almost exactly where you’re hitting it. If your miyata seatpost dies, you can’t buy a replacement in the UK any more, so you have to either weld it up or get a rail adaptor if you want to still use the miyata, which is a bit annoying.
Joe
Whos?
Joe,
Yes, I relised that it didnt looks awfully strong.
If it does break, I shall buy a GB seatpost, or some rails.
Tomorrow i will take it for a nice long ride… see what its like 
Joe,
Yours Joe!
I agree with Andrew, it does look nice.
Why thank you! 
It is just a blue double seat clamp from Unicycle.Uk.Com
I had never thought about it before. Its just always been there! I was going to change it to a black one, as i have black rim, pedals, cranks, etc but i think it looks good, and stands out a bit…
Joe,
Cheers Rowan. Unless the neck of the frame is also cut on an angle how does that clamp properly?
Andrew
I think the angle is done just to look cool, and I doubt it aids in the clamping. Just because the top and the bottom of the tube part is sloped, does not mean that inside is sloped too.
I am guessing that this means there is a horizontal shoulder inside the clamp, which rests on the lip of the seat tube. I don’t really know annything about it, I am just speculating.
I’m not entirely sure whether I like that kind of seat clamp. I’ve got one on my muni, and I’m concerned that because of the inner lip it only sits on the very top 1 1/2 cm or so of the frame. I’d prefer it to be a bit longer… the normal clamp on the other uni covers a good 4cm or so, so doesn’t crush the frame in as much.
Phil
I like these clamps. I think they work really well.
i have drawn a pic to try and show you what it is like.
Hope you can understand it!
I like the way it holds the frame and Spost. I find it much better than any other bolt type seat clamp, especially the standard ones which come/came with the UDC Trials and the old Onzas (not sure about the new ones)
Thanks for the picture.
I may be mechanically challenged, but what’s the use of the top bolt? If the clamp isn’t making contact with the frame up there, wouldn’t it just serve to pinch the top part of the clamp? Or is the clamp supposed to touch the seatpost?
Good questinon.
Looking at it, it does look like it is usless, but it grips the seat post.
I have done another drawing. Hope this helps! 
Joe,
Thanks Joe (and Rowan), that’s exactly what I was wondering. I just assumed that it wouldn’t also clamp the seatpost and would therefore not be very effective in stopping spinning. This a very nice clamp you’ve got there.
Andrew
I’ve got one of those clamps, they’re great. If you set them up right then your seat post won’t suffer from twisting.
Recently went riding on my muni with a quick release clamp to test different seat heights, really made me appreciate the double clamp!
Re: Saddle Tilt
So Did I. I did it yesterday. Don’ t know why it didn’t occure to me before. I noticed an improvement with my viscount. I may even hit the mount plate again to get another couple degrees out of it. Joe, thanks to you and Roger for the tip.
-Cubby
Test Ride
WOW!
My saddle is SO cool.
I cna now understand why people do tilt their saddle.
I found such a difference!!!
It is great.
i didnt suffer any saddle sorness, or have to change how i was sitting (further up, further down, or without saddle at all).
I would recommend this to anyone wanting to try tilting their saddle, as it correct it, only costs the price of the SP.
NOTE: A spare seat post would be a good idea when hammering you one to be tilted - just in case!!! :()
Joe,