It seems that it is much easier to rotate the cranks than the tire. (On a KH24 2007, KH29 2005 and an Onza 24" 2005.)
I was wondering if I buy the CWP-6 crank remover and rotate the cranks will they get worn or loose after lets say a dozen rotations?
Is the CWP-6 crank remover the best tool to use for KH 2007 ISIS and 2005 splined crank/hub sets?
Just and interesting bit of information. I have more wear on the left side of my tires because I always jump to the left side and I usually turn left when doing u-turns. I therefore turned my Duro 24x3" tire against the direction flow arrow. I don’t feel any difference in the quality of ride. This is probably a good way to ensure more even wear and extend the life of the tire.
By the way I was looking at footage of Kris Holm and he usually uses the Duro Wildlife Leopard for Muni. This can very clearly be seen in “defect” where he rides on the pipe in the desert of North Dakota with Justin Kohse. If Doro is good enough for Kris I am going to stick with it and not even bother trying more expensive options.
What is a lot of abuse? Would a dozen or two dozen crank rotations create problems? I figure that if I rotate the cranks every two to three months this would mean at least three years of riding until I would need a new Hub/crank set and that would be fine by me.
Rotate the tire. Besides the crank wearing away, the cranks only have about two places where the wheel would be the strongest. You should always orient cranks so that they line up with the rim seam and the tube hole. That way when you are landing you won’t land on the weak spots of the rim.
Rotating the cranks is supposed to even out the wear on the splines and the wheel. Particularly on trials wheels the tyre will wear mostly in one spot, rotating either the tyre or the cranks moves this point round to make the tyre wear mroe evenly and last longer.
So this brand-new KH20 trials has the cranks in the worst possble postion? The cranks are 90 degrees off from the valve and seam, so you’d always pogo on a seam or the valve…
no, thats wrong
that is the strongest position.
think about it, when you completely TACO a rim… it is always in line w/ the cranks. therefore, that is the weakest spot. there isn’t much sideways force on the lowest part of the rim. REALLLY think about it.
This is a false concept, sorry to say. In a reasonably-built wheel, the load is distributed through many segments of the rim. There is no weak spot at the valve or the seam. The notion simply doesn’t apply to the way the wheel works. This is essentially true even if the seam is plugged, not welded, though I would disagree with Jobst Brandt on this point for the modern unicycle wheel, where the torsional resistance of the rim is passed through the seam better with a welded rim. He treated mostly road riding and its concerns.
I’m for moving the cranks, since moving the tire hazards damage to the tube.
Thanks for all the replys but I am now more confused than ever, and I consider myself a pretty smart and handy guy!
Rotating a tire on an Alex DX32 or Kris Holm 47mm rim is not an easy task. there have been a few threads about this subject in the past. There is just not much of a “valley” in the rim to give you slack. I remember how hard it was just to get my Duro 24X3" tire on the rim!
Kris Holm just wrote to me and said, “As long as they are properly greased, you should be able to remove and replace the ISIS cranks as many times as you want without any loosening- nice thing about tapered splines.”
I don’t think that many people actually worry about the tire wear. They just buy another tire. This makes perfect sense with a $23 dollar tire like the Duro. Just put a new one on every 6 months. However I am living in Israel currently and only make it back to America once a year or so. I therefore don’t have a cheap option of purchasing new tires. Just the postage and customs to here are more expensive than the tire! Besides why not help out the environment by using the same tire for two years!
I think that maybe a poll should be done to see how many people rotate the cranks, tire or just do nothing at all.
I was kinda leaning toward U-Turn’s reasoning before I posted, but just wanted to see what people had to say. I guess it amounts to “We don’t really know for sure…”
After reading U-Turn’s post I’m inclined to go in the direction that those spots aren’t weak spots due to the wheel loads, but it seems whenever I see a rim tacoe those apparently “not weak” spots are pushed way farther in than any other part. I also don’t see why it should be that bad to keep your cranks so that they are oriented on the “strong” parts of the wheel and just rotate the tire.
If you rotate your tire properly and just remove it and put it back on in another spot then I don’t see why it should damage anything. Plus if it does I’m sure the damage is very small, so small infact that rotating the cranks would still be a worse choice.
With this said I still don’t see why rotating the cranks would be the better option.
Rotating cranks increases spline wear, and potentialy may put pressure on weak spots.
Rotating tire may potentialy cause wear to your 5 dollar tube.
I don’t know about others but it just makes sense to rotate the tire as opposed to the cranks.
