What kind of PSI do some of you guys run in your tubeless 36ers on the road?
I was riding 55 PSI with a tube, but don’t want to blow my tire off the rim now that I’m tubeless. I have it at something like 45 right now, but may need to take that down to the 40 PSI max that Stans recommends.
Have any of you run higher PSI’s in tubeless setups?
Thanks!
Anybody? Dropped my PSI to 36, will put it up to 40 for a ride tomorrow I guess. I don’t wanna blow my bead off my rim. 
I’m running 45 psi with Caffelatex tubeless on a Todd 36". That’s the same pressure I preferred prior to going tubeless. I had it up to 65 psi at first while sealing the tire for a 12 mile ride. Then the next day I dropped the pressure to 45 psi for normal road riding.
JM
I run much lower pressures in my Todd (18-20psi), but I only ride muni; maybe the risk of tire roll off is higher at low pressures?? In any case, other than the occassional burps, tubeless has been easy.
I don’t know that being tubeless changes anything in regards to the tire being at risk of “blowing off the rim” at high pressures.
Back when tires were more fragile, the “clincher” tire and rim were designed to prevent that problem and allow for higher pressures. Prior to clinchers, high pressures were managed using “sew ups”, where the tube was encased in the tire and sewn in place, then the tiretube was glued onto the rim.
Pretty much all tires and tubes are “clinchers” now, though some tires and tubes hold better than other by design, improved rim hooks and tired beads.
I think your risk of a catastrophic failure on a 36er are higher with a tube than tubeless due to tube blow out issues. The Todd is not as “beefy” as a nightrider, so in theory the sidewall could tear more easilly, but in my experience using the Todd off road, it is a pretty tough tire as tires go.
Does anybody ride the TA tubeless? Is it even doable? Does it make much difference?
Any tire/rim can be made tubeless, some are easier, but they can all be made to seal “in time”.
The greatest benefits are in the rotational weight savings and blow out safety. After riding my 36er tubeless I am so satisfied that I will never run a tube in a 36er again. I do carry a spare Foss tube in case of emergencies, but it’s just collecting dust 
You need a valve: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=46838
and some tape: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=38829
You can try a ghetto set up using a 29er tube, but I don’t know how much I would trust overstretching a “filleted” tube…
Ah, thanks a lot!
I think you could safely run 50 psi but just watch the bead for movement
I’ve been running 45 and it’s been fine. The lower rolling resistance means I can run a lower psi and get the same feel.
Ben, I supsect that a ghetto setup may actually be easier to set up. I had to add sealant a week or so ago, and nearly threw my 36er out the window trying to get the beads to seat again. The beads sit in the center of the rim, and don’t like to pop into the bead hooks. If you run a ghetto setup, the thicker rubber would keep the beads a bit higher on the rim, and perhaps help them seat a bit better.
Tubeless is great, but I have a hell of a time setting it up. I spent 4 hours trying to reseat that 36 and got pretty frustrated (I know now to just go through the valve, though I still lose a bead doing that).
Sometimes, I think that if I ever get a new tire or whatever, I’d run a tube with Stans in it. Is the loss in weight of going tubeless, worth the effort to set it up? I think that’s a question everyone needs to decide on their own.
Ummm Killian, did you break the seated bead to add fluid?
You’re supposed to pull the valve core and add the fluid through the valve 
Yeah, I wouldn’t break the bead on a 36er, it’s too hard to seat those big tires, so once it’s seated I leave it alone.
It may also be that some tires are easier to seat and stay seated when adding fluid. I have added fluid twice to my Todd and the bead stayed seated just fine when completely deflated.
How often do you need to add sealant to a tubeless setup? I assume (now) that it should be part of the standard maintenance.
I had a 29" tubeless, but it eventually dried out and unsealed. I got frustrated and switched back to a tube.
Scott
It depends on the humidity where you live, so in the Tennessee Valley where we have extremely high humidity, I have gone a year on my 36er before adding sealant. That said, I store them inside where it’s air conditioned…
In Calif, you probably need to add some every few months.
Sealnt does dry up, leaves a latex “paint like” residue, not a bad thing, you just need to add sealant more often if you’re drying out.
Thank’s Ben.
When the 29" failed it was completely dry. Perhaps I will try tubeless again sometime, but this time I will maintain it better.
Scott
Ben,
Does the Schraeder valve you list above work in a 36" nimbus rim?
Scott
It should be the same diameter as a Schraeder tube valve. For some reason they are hard to find in the USA 
Apparently that link is to a valve that has been discontinued, so here’s one that it’s stock:
I didn’t want to wait for a valve when I went tubeless on my Nimbus D2, so I had to enlarge the valve hole in the rim to fit an auto style valve.
The bike specific valve is the one you want, the threaded section is longer than an auto valve, and should fit without enlarging the hole.
My other tubeless uni was presta, so it was easy to find a valve.
Ben, at first I tried breaking the bead (bad idea, I know) because the nozzle on my bottle of Stans at the time was a bit to big to fit into my valve stem without leaking. Once I got my beads reseated, I whittled on the end with my knife to get the nozzle to fit and went through the valve. I cut the nozzle on my new bottle so it’ll fit right this time.
Even if I remove the valve core though, one of my beads will pop off. They’ll both hold for about 10-30 sec. and then I’ll hear the pop.