I remember having read about the mud guard rings on the KH24 that
sometimes have to be turned inside out but I can’t find it back, so
here’s a story and then a question.
Recently I have experienced main cap problems on the KH24 (2003 model,
I think). The bolts that hold the main caps would come loose
repeatedly, so I had to carry an Allen wrench on the ride to tighten
them again. I would tighten them to the extent that the wheel still
turns freely, which wasn’t very tight.
Yesterday I had the cranks and the rings off the hub. (With rings I
mean shiny metal disks, not quite flat, that go around the splined
part of the hub. I think they act as a barrier to mud getting to the
bearings.) I then tightened the main cap bolts and found that I could
tighten them much further before the wheel would bind. Hey, this way
they would come loose I think! Then I put the rings on, as well as the
cranks. Surprise: the wheel had a LOT of friction. It turned out that
the cranks had pushed the rings ‘into’ the bearing holders, but the
rings were slightly too large so they rubbed.
Is this the problem to which the solution is to mount these rings
inside out? Yeah, they might then run outside the bearing holders, but
they would act as mud CATCHERS rather than mud guards - not nice. It
seems to me that this is a design error in the rings, and that it
would best be resolved by grinding a little bit of material off the
outside of the rings.
Comments please.
Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict
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Normally they sit with the flat side innermost, and they should just sit outside the bearing houses. Make sure that the to spacers that are fitted are the rigth way round, because one is thick and one is thin, if you have removed them. The other thing is that the early frames have no kind of lip or edge on the bearing holders, this means that if the clamps are loose the legs can splay out and come in to contact with the ‘flying saucer’ as it is usually known, resulting in the grinding as described. The thing to do in this case is to loosen the clamp bolts, push the fork legs in together until they are poperly located and then tighten them to hold them in place. Get some locktite on those clamp bolts and they’ll hold in place much better.
On Sun, 30 Oct 2005 04:38:44 -0600, kington99 wrote:
>Make sure that the to spacers that are
>fitted are the rigth way round, because one is thick and one is thin,
>if you have removed them.
I have indeed removed them, and never checked for a difference. Are
they really different? With the whole thing put together, they look
the same.
>The other thing is that the early frames have
>no kind of lip or edge on the bearing holders
Mine have.
>Get some locktite on those clamp
>bolts and they’ll hold in place much better.
That wouldn’t hurt anyways.
==>> Could someone comment on my suggested solution to grind the
flying saucers a little bit smaller??
Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict
“dit dit diddle diddle dit dit did-it, dit dit diddle diddle dit dit did-it, dit diddle dit dit dit diddle dit dit, diddle-diddle-diddle-diddle-dit dit diddle diddle dit dit did-it,… - Spudman”
Oh they most certainly are different, not by much i grant you, but enough to cause serious problems. I rebuilt my Nimbus Muni with a KH hub a couple of years ago and spent ages getting them the right way round. I can’t remeber which way they’re meant to be, but obviously there’s only two ways, so swap them and see, you might well have the thin ones on the outisde instead of the thick ones. The thickness difference is only really apparent if you lay them side by side on a flat surface, just holding them they look pretty much the same.
On Mon, 31 Oct 2005 07:42:24 -0600, kington99 wrote:
>thin ones on the outisde instead of the thick ones.
Hey wait a minute… Am I supposed to have four of these things, i.e.
two on each side? I thought I had only one per side, at any rate I’m
quite sure I only removed one per side. And so I understood from what
you said that they were different left versus right. If there are two
per side, then probably the small one goes inside and runs within the
bearing holder, whereas the larger one runs outside it. But I’ll have
to check what exactly I have, two or four.
Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict
“dit dit diddle diddle dit dit did-it, dit dit diddle diddle dit dit did-it, dit diddle dit dit dit diddle dit dit, diddle-diddle-diddle-diddle-dit dit diddle diddle dit dit did-it,… - Spudman”
There are two per side, the threading sequence goes spacer, bearing, spacer, flying saucer, crank. If you removed the crank while the wheel was built in to the frame then the bearings and the spacers behind them would have been held captive, and thus you would only have removed the outside spacer from each side, so you can’t have got them wrong.