I think I am just going to open my own theme park on the moon with black jack and hookers…
… ahhh screw it all
So anyway maybe I need a Triton triple with a second 26x3.7" Surly Nate wheel build to go with my current Hand Dampf set up for all that mud
I think the problem is I am happy with what I have but I want to buy something so I have no real focus, I want a 36er but I have at least come to the conclusion that I am not fit enough to push one of those on the trials I ride, when the 29er become to easy on the hills then that will be the indicator to get a 36er.
I have emailed a few people about Triton 26/29 and Muni triple frames to see what is about (although I think the Triple replaced the 24/26 and 26/29 frames) otherwise I will wait and do some sort of custom build
I am sure you are all bored now and just want me to buy something and post some Uni porn pics
Why do you need a triple if you’re gonna use dosc brakes?
Isn’t that kinda backwards? What I mean is, a 36er is harder to ride up steep hills, but solely because it is a “taller gear”, but it’s not really an issue of being in shape to ride a 36er off road, but of having a wheel size that matches your ride.
I often take a 36er when I should probably take a 29er, but only because I like to ride the 36er on hard trails, so what ends up happening is I walk the big wheel on the steep ups; some of which I could climb on a 29er and some of which would be a walk regardless.
The reason to have a big wheel is not to replace the 29er, but to change your ride in a way that makes a boring ride harder (I suppose this is what you meant) or allows a higher rate of speed, but also to add uniqueness to your riding. there is nothing like sitting up high and rolling that big wheel.
There’s a big riding area near my house, it’s a couple hundred acres, three ridges, lots of shoreline, great for me and the dogs. So I have started hiking straight up the ridge when I am short on time, then I bomb down the other side, then take the shore trail back to my car. Lately I’ve been taking the 36er because it is so fun on the downhill and shore trail, though most folks would consider it “real muni”, I figure if it can be done on a 36er, then it should be done on a 36er.
When I’m feeling puny or tired from riding or working, I take the 29er and cruise.
You should see if there is someone local who’d let you try there 36er.
I agree with Ben, you need to try the 36". Would you like to borrow one of mine? I have the Night rider disc prototype rigged for off-road that does nothing much at the moment. It is rough and ready but will give you some idea of what a 36" rides like off road. I am coming down your way at Christmas and can throw it in the van if you would like. It looks like I am taking quite a few toys away with me at Christmas.
Thanks Roger that is ridculously kind of you, that would be a fantastic help to help clarify my wandering mind.
If we can sort something out that would be great, and not to mention being able to make you a cup of tea (if you have time) as a pathetic token of thanks for this and the part you play in the Uni comunity
Seriously this comunity is the best, out of all the sports/hobies I have done over the years I have never met a more friendly ‘agro’ free bunch of people, and being able to meet and talk to founders of the sport and companies who make our kit is just the icing on the cake!
Unrelated to this just clearing out old parts (spare 19" wheel and kh26 frame) and my new 24" has more than replaced my 19" Trials so that has been sitting unloved in an ever growing pile of unicycles
If I get a deal on selling my 19 I will sell it but I will be equally happy to keep it, if I can be bothered I may rip the mad4one 32h hub out of the spare 19" wheel and rebuild my 24" with it as it is funky and light.
And Nurse Ben, UniShark and everyone else who has weathered my ramblings and indecision and helped me on my.
The plan is to build my 36er now and my 29er next year when Dmitry is free for a custom order (why chose one Triton when you can have 2 :p)
Wheel parts ordered from Municycle
Frame will becoming from CDK
Request sent to Waltworks for a tyre
UDC will be providing all the ancilery components
And the brake wil probably come from Chain Reaction Cycles
Build is as follows
Triton 36"
Green Echo seat clamp
Green D Brake mount
Nimbus Hub
Nimbus Steath 2 rim
Green nipples
Black spokes
Waltworks 36" tyre
Impact one piece seat post
Impact Naomi seat (have some longer carrage bolts for hande / brake mount but will CF base it like my 29er at some point)
Brake seat mount
29" inner tube
rim tape
165/150 Spirit cranks
Nuke Proof Electron pedals
Hope Race 4 pot brake (black with green piston caps) - magbe green braided hose?
Floating rotor (would like green but that is hope race team only)
After all your help I know this is the right way to go.
Sounds great!
Which Nimbus hub are you using? Will the brake be mounted inside or outside the frame?
Longer term you’ll probably want to try a handlebar, but that can wait.
I was thinking about (and mentioned by Roger) about spreading the fork legs to fit a 125m hub with internal brake, it is doable (done all the time on bikes) but you need to re-angle the bearing holders to be parallel whilst keeping it all symmetrical. For the time beign I am using an ordinary 36 hole nimbus hub with a disc mounted crank. Maybe in time I will get a frame builder to mod it or just get Dmitry to make a wide one at the same time as I get the wide 29er built and sell this one (they hold value well so it won’t cost me much)
As for bars I ride two handed on the saddle handle on road and flat XC trials and have been looking at a T-bar in a short MUni setup like Kris and Terry ride so maybe I need to order two of those Although at about £900 the 36er is costing enough
I believe that was the first link you sent me when I was talking to you about 36ers
If you want to slip one into my order for free I will happily have it, in fact maybe you should give me two as the 29er will fill left out, but then there is the 24" as well…
Romain had accept my offer for his as new frame and that is all paid up so just waiting on Walt to sort my invoice out and then I can order all the remaining bits from Roger
Ti is a bit brittle, esp the welds, and because the harder tubes (6A) have more spring brake, they don’t hold a bend well. An inch (25mm) is a lot of splay and unlike bike dropouts you will have a harder time realigning the bearing holders because you need to make and sustain a bend in the tube without kinking/flattening the tube which could weaken it.
My Ti frame had a bearing holder that was slightly cockeyed and it cause premature bearing failure. I also broke the crown welds from tube splay flex. Not a huge Ti fan here, I’d just assume have my $800 back and call it quits. My frame has a lifetime warranty, but after many hours and too many emails to count, three frame builds, and the final one which lasted < six months before breaking, so yeah, it’s sitting in a box
If you go guni 36, then the Triton is a good frame, if you want to run a wide hub, get an Oracle 36" frame.
That was one of my concerns not knowing the elasticity of Ti and how it would hold a bend or two.
Should have bought a Triton
I am sure a custom Triton built for 125mm would be fine and hardly any more than buying a standard one from a shop, you should no my list of hates by now
Machined rim brake walls
External discs
Round crowns
And this build has 2 out of 3 but may spray the side walls with some acid etch primer and satin black to match the anodizing and it will give something to do whilst waiting for the tyre
Hey, I was considering painting my braking surface also, but wasn’t sure how to go about it. I’ve got all the parts for my new build, but tire won’t get to me until (at best) next week, and I’m trying to hold back from putting an old tire on it. So I’ve got the weekend to fawn over my incomplete new uni.
What is the acid etch primer?
Are you just talking about using spray paint?
edit: I should have Googled first. . . my bad. But anyhow, if you’ve got tips from experience painting aluminum, I’d love to hear them.
The acid etch primer is in a spray can and can be got from most automotive type shops, it chemically eats into the surface slightly to make it adhere really well.
Then some satin spray paint should be similar to the anodized finish, if you mask it up well the colours will be on different planes so won’t be reflecting the light the same way so you won’t notice any colour variation. You could whack some satin clear coat over it to help protect it
)
