Riding geared through water and 36er karma

So I decided to have my geared hub put into a 29er again instead of the 36er I was running. I got my wheel built yesterday and set up the uni last night, so I was excited to ride to work with it, unfortunately it was raining this morning and I took the usual route to work down the bike path that follows a creek. Little did I know (since I am new to Denver in the spring) that the creek trail floods like crazy! I found myself riding through over a foot of water and getting my shoes soaked. I saw another biker ride and then turn back after seeing the flooded trail, but I pushed on because I’m stupid.

Anyway, I think that this is karma for taking apart my geared 36er, because I would have been higher up off the ground and may have possibly not got my shoes wet if I was still on the geared 36er.

I’ve never really soaked a uni before, but should I worry about drying off some of the components when I get home? As in…taking off my cranks and frame and making sure there is no water in there? Lucky for me I still havent added my schlumpf oil to the hub, I was planning on doing that tonight, so I’m not really worried about that. Just more curious if I should worry about the crank/isis axle connection and if it is worth taking off cranks to dry/regrease that connection?

Interesting ride in for sure, going to walk around the office without shoes for the rest of the day.

I envy you for having a geared hub. Never seen one myself, but I would have filled it with oil like the OEM said before riding it.

The OEM surely greased the cranks before putting them on. I write OEM because spelling Shlumpf-KH is something we should short hand.

Even in my salty tropical riding area, corrosion on ISIS hubs hasn’t been a problem so far (only 3 years). I avoid riding in salt water as much as I can, and spray the uni off softly with the garden hose. Fresh water is 1/10 as damaging as salt water. Or maybe 1/100 th as damaging as salt water. My numbers aren’t so good, but believe me, salt is bad. Damp plus salt is worse. Damp, salt in a hot place can rot boat parts, uni parts, super fast. So don’t fear the water, rinse your uni off with a hose often, if that may remove salt or dirt.

I took some parts off just now since I was hearing some water slushing, turns out that it was trapped in the double walled KH 29er rim.

I normally don’t care about my unis getting wet, but riding through that much flood water didn’t seem like the best thing for it. I don’t think water got in the hub surprisingly, nothing came out of the slot screw when I removed it, pretty amazing piece of equipment!

@feel the light: I had added the schlumpf oil a while back, but it was about due for another syringe of oil. Now seems like the perfect timing after its recent bath.

I learned my lesson though…next time I won’t take the cherry creek trail to work if it rains…unless I am on a 36er with short cranks =]


I know a few good mechanics that swear by WD-40 on pretty much everything. The logic seems to be, that a product that is good enough to protect multi million dollar rockets is probably good for bikes, wrenches, dirt bikes, shotguns, sewing machines…everything. No idea if this technically sound thinking but it may displace water and add some corossion resistance, it seems true in my experience.

I’m curious what you have settled on for a seat? Find one that you are good with for your long trips? I am making pretty good friends with the 2010 KH Freeride. I read these forums and try things…curious what you settled on for a seat. I rode a 24 guni in Florida just a little, (thanks again John) really liked the idea of it and the performance. A 29 guni seems a good combination.

I had the 2010 fusion freeride on my geared 36er with the T-bar, I hated it. The foam is too hard in the back, and it is just uncomfortable on the road. It may be a good muni seat, but for me, it was just bad.

On the 29er I will be using my carbon fiber KH base, 2008 freeride foam on top, and GB4 handlebar. With a KH rail adapter, and some bar ends on that for brake placement. I was going to just use the KH adjustable post, but the bolts stick out a little bit and it doesn’t seem like it would be a secure fit against the CF base.

I never had an issue with saddle soreness with the geared 29er/125s because I was out of the saddle a lot. That is part of the reason I am going back to a geared 29er from a geared 36. I will soon have a lot of comments about geared 36 vs geared 29 after I ride some more with the geared 29 again. I did RTL with the geared 29, then have been using it in a geared 36 for over 1,000 miles, and now I am going back to the 29er for a change of pace.

2010 Free Ride

I kinda felt like the foam was too soft on the 2010 Free Ride which made the base seem harder because I could feel the base through the soft foam. In any case my first impression was the 2010 Free Ride was too hard. It surprised me how hard it felt just after 20 miles I stayed with it only because I wanted to give the flat saddle that more closely mimics a bike seat supporting the sit bones theory a thorough chance to work. I did a 45 mile ride on Sunday and it was the least of all evils I have tried so far: ). I did’nt like shorter cranks at first but I’m glad I hung with them now. I’m hoping this saddle is it I’m running out of experiment time. I keep reminding myself there is no one size fits all and try and make the best choices for me and it sounds like you are doing quite well and having a good time. Post in Pics. of Latest Ride thread and I may try some of your ideas if you change things up and it resonates.