Are they strong? Do the pins stay in? To they stick to the feet well? Are they worth the coin? Any other questions that need answering?
i’ve got a pair of jim c oddessy pedals and i love them.
i haven’t broken them, and don’t think i ever will.
the pins stayed in for 3 months, without tightening from when i got them, then i undid them which was hard and loc-tited them just in case. they are great pins cause they don’t come out at all. (for me anyway)
they have plenty of grip for what i do now (Muni).
i also like that they are designed so no matter how you put your foot on it it always goes to the flat part cause of some parralelogram design or whatever it is.
they cost 100 in australia, but igot mine for 50 because of a nice lady at the LBS.
they’re worth every cent.
they have plenty of grip and they are still soft enough you can ride them barefoot as long as you don’t do anything hardcore.
I found that too. I think with the pins taken out they’d be perfect barefoot pedals. The concave makes your feet really stay put.
seriously dude, buy them, a beter pedal hath not been made.
I wouldn’t go that far. They’re good, but not that good.
They’re great pedals for trials and street style riding. Enough grip to keep your foot on the pedal, but not so much grip that you can’t easily reposition your foot on the pedal.
They don’t have enough grip for muni use. You can use longer screws to get more grip, but the layout of the pins on the pedal is still not optimal for grip. When your shoes get dusty or wet you’ll be slipping on the pedals.
I think I’ll get some JC’s for street/trials/flatland, because the distortion ones are too grippy and my plastics suck.
Hell Yes, I’ve not broken a set and I’m bad on equipment.
From the manufacturer you can hardly undo them, they’re really beefy (compared to V12 grubscrew pins) so won’t warp or become impossible to remove with abuse.
Yes, except in the wet when you could do with some slightly longer pins (I think you can get them).
Yes, definitely. Don’t bother with sealed bearings, the unsealed ones have lasted me for months, they’re tougher than most sealed ones.
They make an excellent pin-free grind/pedalgrab pedal, as the knurling keeps your foot on if you fluff the mount onto the wrong side (at least until grinding wears it away), and there are no ‘cast’ pins, so when you remove the pins from one side, thats it, its totally flat.
Definitely the best for Trials and Street, the big platform is easy to land on after no-footing or unispinning.
for Muni, a pair of DMR V12s is the way to go.
if you read the little card that comes with them, jimmy c himself explains that they’re grippy but not too grippy. perfect for bmxing where you need to get your foot off the pedal to do tricks. because of this they’re good street pedals but kinda suck for muni. i want to be able to come off a bump/drop/other muni obstacle, and have less than half my foot on the pedal and still feel attached. snafus are good for that. the jimmy c’s are designed to do pedal slides on a bmx biek so they’re pretty tough, also quite heavy.
they are awsome and are fully replacible pins which is neat. Grippy pins but you can go bare foot as long as you dont jump to much because they are hard.
I’ve had them on my bmx bike for almost a year now, best pedals I’ve ridden on anything. I have the unsealeds (cause I had to have me them dayglow orange special editions!) and they’ve held up better than the various pedals my friends have had on their bikes. I’m not extremely abusive to my stuff but they have held up to some fairly unkind bike throws and falls.
just rode my brand new jc’s today,
wow, nice change
what do you guys think about sealed vs unsealed bearing versions? the unsealed versions will tend to spin like crazy after some time. will u have problems landing an unsealed bearing pedal?
sealed ones on the other hand is pretty ‘tight’ and wont spin like crazy on no footing tricks…
Sealed bearing pedals typically rely on things like o-rings to add friction to minimize the free-spinning. If the pedals start to free-spin too much you can replace the old worn o-ring with a new one.
You can adjust the free-spin on unsealed pedals by tightening up the bearings. Pop off the end cap (dust cap) on the pedal, and tighten down the nut inside (which squeezes the ball bearings tighter between the cup and cone), and you can reduce the free-spin. Doing a full overhaul with new grease in the bearings is also a good idea occasionally.
Unsealed pedals are more durable for things like crank grabs and such. Sealed bearings can literally fall apart due to abuse. When that happens the pedal body can fall off the spindle. If you use sealed pedals for muni or trials you should replace the sealed cartridge bearings occasionally before the actually fail.
ive had my jim c’s for about a month now, i got the fluro yellow ones, they got really good grip and you can move your foot around on the pedal to get it right without getting off. The paint on mine on the side come off really easy when i stack but there definately worth the money and the fluro yellow looks awesome
I’ve had my JC’s for almost 2 years now. They are great! Very strong! I need some new pins now because they are getting worn. But what do you expect after 2 years of riding everyday?! OH yeah, and the pins have never came loose on me.
Is there any way to put grind plates on jim c’s? It doesnt look like it
Anyone complaining about grip should know that they come with a set of short and long pins, the long pins could be filed pointy for way more grip.
I do notice the powder coating does chip away pretty easily, that’s my only complaint.
Yes you can, they have tons of room for a grind plate.
This is a very good design for a grind plate that will work on these pedals.
No…to use those on Jimmy C’s you either need to modify the pedal (take a little chunk out) or modify the grind plate. The long pieces will not go through both sides of the pedal. If you have a set go look at them and you will see what I mean.
ok sweet, thanks