Red loctite on spokes

I’m having to stop too many times to tighten up spokes on my Impulse 36er.

It has a dished wheel. I’ve used medium strength glue which subsequently failed. So now I’m going to try using red Loctite to stop the spoke nuts from unravelling.

Has anybody ever tried this ?

Wow, that’s brave! I would recommend at least doing a couple experimental attachments first, to see how long the joint remained flexible before solidifying. I would be afraid of not being able to finish the lacing job and truing the wheel, before the nipple could not be turned at all.
Good luck!

Are you certain they are properly tensioned? I constantly battled loose spokes each ride on my 36er until I tensioned them up to 22 on the Parks TM-1 gauge. Haven’t touched a spoke since and that was a couple hundred miles ago.

Thanks Lance

I did a test on a spare spoke earlier this evening and I was still able to turn the nipple two hours later.

I am still new to uni’s but as a mechanic I am no stranger to loctite and I can say I would not use red on the spokes. try the green or blue
red once cured requires heat to loosen it back up again
if you ever need to go back and adjust the spokes you would most likely round the outer nut then after that get the vise grips out and then snap off the spoke while trying to get it loose
Just saying

Thanks T… No, I don’t think the tension is quite right on them, but I don’t have a Parks TM-1 gauge :frowning:

I read somewhere that the tension on one side of a dished wheel is different to the tension on the other side, so tensioning a dished wheel is not so straight forward.

It’s no big deal to go around and give them all a half turn (or a quarter turn), if it the wheel gets pulled to one side by a millimeter you would never notice it. Chances are it’s out of dish anyway. A loose wheel will flex from side to side a centimeter or more when you ride it.

loctite is bad for spokes, next time you have to adjust them the whole spoke will twist instead of just the nipple… that is a problem.

Yep, I understand what you are saying. I’ve tried a medium strength glue equivalent to blue Loctite but it didn’t work.

The gamble is that I get the spokes reasonably well tensioned and hope they stay that way. If ever I need to re-tension a spoke I just simply apply heat and loosen the nipple with a spoke spanner.

The test spoke that I mentioned to Lance will be used to see how effectively I can use heat to loosen the glue bond. I’m leaving the glue to cure for at least 24 hours before applying any heat to the nipple. If this works out then I will consider going ahead with my plan.

Linseed oil

I use linseed oil.

Linseed Oil can be found at a local hardware store or Art shop (its used to thin oil paints). The point of spoke prep is to provide some lubrication when lacing and truing the wheel and then to act as a bit of a thread-lock to keep spokes from easily loosening.

Usually I can get away with using a tooth pick to place a drop on the spoke at where it enters the nipple and let linseed oil wick into the threads after building the wheel. You will not have a problem later re-adjusting spoke tension.

You can purchase a couple different “spoke prep” solutions made for dealing with your problem.

I also turn my spokes a half turn past and then back them off a half turn as I true my builds to remove spoke twist and preload the spoke with tightening twist/tension.

Joe Myers

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It’s not the wheel being perfectly centred that concerns me it’s more to do with the tension dynamics.

I’m hoping that the glue can be loosened so that the spoke doesn’t get twisted, as you mention.

Thanks bungeejoe. That sounds like good advise and less risky too. I might try your suggestion before proceeding any further with the red Loctite.:slight_smile:

Yeah, more specifically, boiled linseed oil. Came highly recommended by Silva Cycles in Campbell , Ca when I built my Schlumpf wheel.

If a thread lock is really needed and there is no consensus that it is needed, there is one that is designed specifically for spokes.

DT Swiss Spoke Freeze was developed in conjunction with Loctite. This threadlock solution prevents loosening of the spoke-nipple connection.

Spoke Freeze locks nipples in place, but allows for up to five adjustments before the compound breaks down. The 10ml bottle will freeze approximately 100 wheels.

Seems quite expensive but is widely available.

Jim

Most of us refer to them as spoke nipples, but I guess it depends on what gender you assign your unicycle.

I rebuilt my 20" a couple of times, only using a drop of bicycle chain oil on each spoke. The second time, when I had done it correctly, I trued my wheel and tightened it up a couple of times after the first couple of rides, and that was about two years ago. Since then it has never gone out of true, even though I do plenty of stairways.

I would never put loctite on my spokes, especially red loctite. A dished 36 is more complicated, and probably more subject to loosening than a 20, but my guess is still that if you true it and get it tight enough, you won’t need any thread locker.

Spoke nipples that cannot be twisted with a spoke wrench are annoying. I associate them with cheap or corroded wheels, and I definitely would not create such a situation deliberately.

Thanks UPD.

[QUOTE=JimT;1687705]
If a thread lock is really needed and there is no consensus that it is needed, there is one that is designed specifically for spokes.

DT Swiss Spoke Freeze was developed in conjunction with Loctite. This threadlock solution prevents loosening of the spoke-nipple connection.

Spoke Freeze locks nipples in place, but allows for up to five adjustments before the compound breaks down. The 10ml bottle will freeze approximately 100 wheels.

Seems quite expensive but is widely available.

Jim[/QUO

Thanks JimT

I never heard of it but it looks promising. I’ll read up on it. :slight_smile:

Thanks Song. :slight_smile:

The two leading causes of spokes chronically working loose are:

  1. Insufficient tension. You don’t necessarily need a tension gauge to test tension - Compare the plucking noise between your wheel and a known solid wheel to get a rough ballpark of where you need to be. If in doubt add a 1/4 to 1/2 turn to all spokes.
  2. The outbound spokes (those with the heads facing inward) did not have the J-bend adjusted so the spoke lays flat when the spokes were being laced. You need to back off the tension so all the spokes are good and loose, then push down on each outbound spoke with your thumb 1/2" past the J-bend.

Your second point is very interesting. I will check that before doing anything else.

Thanks RHankey.:slight_smile:

there is a third…the most common at trials…deformation off the rim. you wont see it but double walled rims, especially with holes give in by time.
hard ridden muni rims do the same, at the end the rim breake in the middle between the holes.
thats the reason trial and muni wheels need some review by time…