Quick fix for cranks and good ones to buy?

The explenation:
My mom took my unicycle to her class about four weeks ago and i guess they took it apart a bit (it is a kids mechanical type class) i checked it out when i got it back and it seemed fine so i have been riding it with 0 issues.But lately i have been hearing a clicking sound and was dumb enough to ignore :angry: it thinking it had to do with a new tire. anyhow one pedal had been re-screwed and over tightened so now my crank is shot it is a Torker LX 24" we went camping yesterday so i started to muni and then my pedal fell out proving that the crank is truly toast ( i saw it was crooked but tightened it straight before riding thinking it had just come unscrewed).
the question(s):
is there anyway to fix it temporarily? and what type of cranks should i buy i want to get good ones but do not want to spend tons of money.?

My mom is willing to pay half because it is half her fault that it is ruined. I am going to camp i a week and a half for the summer so i need something that will last at least till i get back and possible buy a new uni any help would be nice:D

p.s. i learned my lesson if it make a noise something is wrong:(

Well a kris holm wheel crank and hub would be the best, but that costs a lot too…
Is the hub broken or just the crank, and, are you sure? on my old unicycle i bought new cranks and it turned out to be the hub that was broken!
(the hub is the thing between the cranks holding the spokes right?) :o

You may as well get a whole new unicycle as then you will be able to trust that it won’t break.

The nimbus ISIS 24 is one of the best out there and is cheap in comparison to the other top level Munis.

it is the crank what happened is some kid overtightened the pedal so much that it shredded the threads, but because it was so nice and “tight” i unwittingly kept riding every day and so the crank is truly dead, it it almost smooth inside :frowning:

dude, get a wheelset, or a new unicycle, the nimbus 24" isis that jamessd talked about is after what i’ve heard, great, and the kh 24" is of course awesome, but anything KH and K1 costs a lot… :frowning:

LX isn’t splined, is it?

If it isn’t, new square taper cranks are 12 bucks at UDC
Shipping shouldn’t be too bad if you really are in Alabama, I think they’re based in Georgia.

EDIT: Sorry, common abbreviation.
Here’s the LINK

THESE if you want some exactly like the one you broke :smiley:

yeah i want to get the nimbus at the end of the summer right now i am short on $$ because i just bought a car so i am hoping after my job ends this summer i can get one…

i am thinking about just getting replacements because it only takes like two days to get here, i will probably end up doing that and then getting a new unicycle at the end of the summer

Buy em from the home page of this site to help cover the costs of running Unicyclist.community

Nimbus X isis 20" is awesome, I have one.
'course, if you’ll be doing mostly MUni then the 24" is the way to go.

will do thanks i did not know that :slight_smile:

I can totally relate to that, since that is the condition of my unicycle right now! I’m trying to clean the remains of the crank out of the pedal threads right now. Does anyone know an easy way to do that, so I can still use the pedal? :slight_smile:

Why not just order new cranks from udc You’ll be rollin again in 4 days.

I think 152mm are the std size for 24" wheel.

Why won’t your mom pay all? you would not have had this problem if her class didn’t mess things up.

use an old toothbrush, twig or something of that nature, my dad cleaned my pedal off by banging it with a wrench so the slivers came off. just be careful of the bits of metal or you will stab yourself (like my dad did)

only one cranks is messed up she is hoping that the bike shop will just sell one. i don’t blame her i just want it fixed because all i can to is wheel walk and i am bored ! :angry: :stuck_out_tongue: that and i am going away soon, and school is out so i can ride all day once i fix it

Call up UDC and see if they have an extra of one side;)

Chrashing, I beat you to it

Are you sure that maybee they put the pedals on backwards? Pedals are marked R & L. The right pedal tightens clockwise and the left, counter clockwise. If that is the case your cranks are still toast but may las a bit longer if put on properly. Also, make sure the cranks are on tight. I use 45 ft.lbs. w/ blue loctight.

So you can still ride while you’r waiting for your new cranks, try putting them on w/ blue Loctite. Clean the treads first w/ rubbing alcohol. If that doesn’t work, reclean the threads and use red loctite. Be wearry of the red as it’s “permanant” (not enough to keep my cranks on where the thread hadn’t been cleaned though). I’d let it sit overnight before riding it to let the loctite set.

Never ride w/ anything loose, and if something is making noise, make sure it’s benign. (Some splined cranks squeek a lot.)

My pedals click once or twice a rev if I’ve been hopping a lot :smiley:

EDIT: Maybe it wouldn’t be so bad to have a spare crank either, eh?

I use 45 ft.lbs. w/ blue loctight.

Never ride w/ anything loose, and if something is making noise, make sure it’s benign. (Some splined cranks squeek a lot.)

what is loctight glue? and yeah i learned my lesson about the noises. are the cranks you linked to good ones (they are cheap to buy) ? if so i might get those

I never use loctight, but it is true that I spend a lot of time tightening things up, mostly the bearing housings because I prefer those on the loose side. Spokes also when I’m truing the wheel. [I like those tight though :)]

Regarding those cranks, they are designed for lightness/minor flatland and have a disclaimer at the bottom of the page.

If you get the same cranks as your old ones they are only $3 more and you’ll have a spare.

i have yet to get to more than rolling hops/drops so i am not to worried but i am trying to learn hopping so i will consult my higher-ups (parents) and go from there :smiley: