Just looking to buy my first MUni from UDC to learn on and am trying to choose between the Quax QX-S26 and the Nimbus Oracle. Both have similar specs with 26" wheel and brakes but I don’t know enough about the detailed build to be able to make a useful comparison.
The Nimbus has a longer crank, 165mm vs 145 on the Quax but as a complete beginner I’m not sure how critical this is?
Anybody out there ride either of these and care to share their thoughts?
Much obliged for any guidance for a first time buyer,
UL
[edit] I should have mentioned that I’ve started training on a cheap 20" Uni to check that I’m going to be able to hack it first! Just having the fun of idly planning ahead…
TBH if I were you I’d go for a 24 as a first uni but the difference between 24/26 is mainly in the tyre so it’s up to you. The same goes for cranks; I’d ask UDC to put some 150 Venture2s on whatever uni you get.
As for Qu-Ax vs Nimbus, I’d go Nimbus any day. Nimbus make fantastic unis and the Oracle is just exceptional. Also, Nimbus is ‘owned’ by UDC - another plus. You really can’t go wrong with Nimbus.
EDIT: By ‘to learn on’ do you mean learn to muni or learn to unicycle?
Yeah, sorry, not very clear and noticed the spell checker changed Quax to Quad in the title
I’m learning to ride using a cheap 20" Uni (started yesterday) but the aim would be to use a Uni for cross country riding or around the local woodland trails. So I’m looking for something that I can move on to once I’ve mastered the basics and want to get on some uneven ground.
I’ve read a tonne of posts on here in respect to 24" vs 26" and initially thought 24 but many on here seem to recommend 26.
I’ve also been mulling over whether to buy a basic MUni when I’m ready or whether to find one fitted with brakes from the outset. Most of the landscape and trails here are pretty flat but there are a few more challenging slopes on some of the tracks…should I start off with something basic and try upgrading later or is it more cost effective to go straight for your end goal (even if you don’t use all the features while you’re learning)?
I have a Nimbus 26", and I like it. Can’t speak for the Quax.
If you order from UDC, you can specify either 165mm, 150mm, or dual 127/150mm (for an extra cost) cranks. Mine has 150s, and they work pretty well for my riding (mostly fairly flat streets), but the shorter ones would be better for longer distances. I would recommend the duals, I’m thinking of getting a set. (I’m relatively new at this myself.)
Just my $.02.
I got a QUaX 24" MUni for my birthday last month and I love it.
I bought it because of the extra strength features and because it has yellow parts, and the flames down the side of the frame were nice too and…
Hehe. :o
I weigh around 85 kilos, so the extra brace under the saddle and the extra spokes appealed to me. The 3" tyre just rolls and bounces over obstacles and does wonders for my confidence on a manic downhill run.
I chose 24" with 150mm cranks as I live in a very hilly area with some beautifully rough pack-horse trails to ride. My first real MUni day on it showed me I’d made the right decision and now I’m disappointed when I have to ride on a road
If you’re seriously considering a lot of off-road riding, I’d suggest you buy Kris Holm’s book from UDC - worth every penny and includes sections on selecting the right Uni and equipment.
I have an Oracle 24 and I don’t really use the brake all that much. Sure, I used it loads when I first got it but now that I’m stronger I don’t use it as much however, when I do use it, it makes a big difference. I could live without it but now that it’s payed for I might as well use it.
If you’ve got money to burn, get a brake, if not, don’t. It’s as simple as that.
Thanks for your thoughts guys.
Of course, I guess what ever one gets as their core Uni it can be tweaked and modified as one gains experience, e.g. crank length.
The comment on the breaks is a good one…it’s quite a price hike between with/without brakes
Wheelie…thanks for pointing out Kris Holms book. Order placed with UDC…
There’s no question the Oracle is a fine uni, but most people find the plain Nimbus muni to be plenty capable. The Nimbus comes with mounting brackets for Magura brakes. That’s not the very latest technology, but it’s a fine solution that some riders still prefer. There are always some listed over in the trading post cheap.
I purchased a Nimbus Muni, just the basic one, and very easily added a brake system later. Picked up the Nimbus D brake calliper mount, Kris Holm spirit 125/150mm cranks, and a break setup. Took me about 30 minutes to install and adjust with spacers and such.
I have used my brake setup less then 5 times over the last 400 ish km’s, I have found that i have improved my riding to the point that 95% of riding never requires it. If you aren’t already a well accomplished unicyclist i suggest you go with the basic Muni and try it out, if you ever get the point that a break would help your performance, invest in your unicycle.
Nimbus Oracle has a slightly wider rim (2 mm, tire fold overs & pinche flats less likely and I feel dampens out the bumps), less likely to hit your knees on the crown but harder to rest your foot for eg 1 ft riding, and better default crank choices IMO. If u get them from UDC u can fairly easily switch things like cranks & seat on either (I recommend KH double holes & Freeride). Many feel 48 spokes is overkill, increasing weight.
24 or 26? Each has it’s benefits, best determined by your terrain and riding style.
24 - climbs easier, trialsy parts are easier, easier to mount (esp uphill or in tech parts), more nimble, harder to get overwhelmed by steep descents.
26- rolls over bumps easier, faster, benefits more from brakes (many don’t use any), momentum more important, large cranks feel more natural, pedal strikes much less often, more stable (esp past a certain speed).
In the past I’d say start on a 24 (the most common size) then go up, but I’ve read of numerous people starting Muni w/ a 26 lately just fine.
Cranks- most who get 165’s on a 24 feel they are too long (I like my 170’s) and pref 150’s to start. On a 26 I’d recommend the 165’s, it would give u a similar effective gearing to 24/150’s.
Another thing to consider is Q-factor. Nimbus & Qu-Ax very little, KH Moments slight and Sirits 1 or 2 mm more. More Q can increase wheel wobble at speed, but improves controll at slow to moderate speeds (I’ve never ridden u uni w/ too much Q for me & my Muni has the most of any uni I’ve tried)
I’d remove the brake, since u wouldn’t b using it for a while and protect it from potential damage in the many UPD’s you’ll have at first.
More spokes =/= stronger wheel.
I’m no expert, but I’d take a Nimbus rim over a Qu-Ax any day. I once tried to bend one (not to destroy it - just flexing it n my hands) at UDC UK and I was shocked at how rigid they are compared to the KH XC rim and the KH freeride rim.
As for seat posts, I don’t think a brace is really needed. Loads of people ride KH and Nimbus posts and I’ve only seen one break (old rail KH post started spinning freely).
IMHO, Maguras aren’t worth it on a new uni. If you’re going to get any brake, I’d get a disc for many reasons.
"Low spoke count wheels are trendy nowadays. But let’s face it: spokes really don’t weigh all that much, and they are really what gives the wheel its strength. So you really gain very little by using few spokes.
Consider, for example, Rolf wheels. They have very few spokes, but the rims have to be heavier in order to provide structure for the wheel in the large gap between spokes."
I’d agree with that quote and hence disagree with your appraisal of spoke count, Jacob
Also more spokes ads rotating mass (Albeit not a lot or at the outermost of the wheel). W/ my 48H rim, I almost never have to adj the spokes (~ once per year for me)
Street, trials & flat riders break them routinely. I saw a pic of all of a kid’s broken parts, there were like 20 posts there. I think less common w/ Muni. Steel is stronger, in some cases even vs reinforced aluminum.
