> Is it really possible for two to ride that thing at once?!?
I have a picture of Sem Abrahams and Ken Fuchs riding a tandem unicycle that
Ken brought to the USA Nationals in 1995. They could do it, but I don’t know
if they made any progress on steering the thing. Apparently it worked best
if one rider did as much of the controlling as possible, while the other
remained as passive as possible.
I think that was the only time I saw that unicycle at a convention.
“I was burning his dinner when I was 17, and now I’m still burning it when
I’m 52.” – Brett Bymaster’s mom Rita, at Brett’s wedding reception on July
13, talking about how she met her husband
>
> OK, calling Mr. Drummond!
>
> Here’s the dealer-contact info:
>
> *******
> Becker Vertriebs GmbH
> Industriestr. 12
> 33750 Schloß-Holte-Stukenbrock
> Tel. +49 (0) 5207-926340
> Fax.+49 (0) 5207-926341
>
> info@qu-ax.de
> *******
>
> Can you get the Muni saddle and the “48-Loch Nabe” with the threaded
> axle? The “Muni-Gabel” might be another nice addition to Unicycle.com’s
> catalog, too…
>
> By the way, how do you say “Qu-ax”?
>
> … Quacks?
>
>
> –
> sendhair - Winking. Never blinking.
>
> Rick
> ____________________________
> “Don’t pity me. Pity my creditors.” – James McNeill Whistler
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> sendhair’s Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/1019
> View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/19921
>
>
It also says it’s aluminum. I’m not sure how much abuse an all aluminum hub and axle could take.
One of these days standard unicycle hubs will get out of the dark ages and use internal threads like the bikes have been using for years. It’s a better system and you don’t have to worry about loosing dust caps.
ALLUMINUM???no-way thats got to be a typo on there part.unless there selling these to be hung on a wall or on the mantle,they better be steel.
but with Rogers post about them knowing about it already,im gonna relax and let it work it self out.sure is a good looking hub though.
Harper,
male threads come on all cheap MTbikes.anything say $300 on down has these so i would think its historicly cheaper to do it that way.on the other hand the Coker i sold had internal threads…i was flabbergasted.
Thanks. If it’s on the low end stuff it’s probably cheaper as you say but I doubt if it’s as good.
The Coker hub with the female threads is the first commercial unicycle hub I’ve heard of. The females can be drilled fairly deep into the axle for more thread grip. I drilled mine 3/4" deep. The standard is to use fine thread which is inherently not as strong but it can be made so by the increased length.
no there not as good,but the threads are stonger because (12 grade education) they havent been chromed like uni hubs.the chroming seems to make the threads brittle and alot weaker than they are already
another cool feature of a internaly threaded hub/axle (besides the cranks staying put without using a mallet) is it can be hollowed out all the way though,making it stronger and alot lighter.
> another cool feature of a internaly threaded hub/axle (besides
> the cranks staying put without using a mallet) is it can be
> hollowed out all the way though,making it stronger and alot
> lighter.
I question the strength of internally threaded hub/axles. How can they be
stronger if they have a hole through them? I don’t know about the rest of
you, but every unicycle axle I’ve ever broken has broken in the same place,
for the same reason. So if there’s a hole going through there, assuming the
same kind of material with same heat treating, I would expect it to break
sooner.
Do I think this is the reason these hubs are not used on today’s unicycles?
No. Though it might appear logical, I know most unicycles tend to be made
from inexpensive versions of bicycle parts. I only believe unicycle hubs are
still of the male variety is because they must be slightly cheaper to
manufacture.
But these types of hub are becoming increasingly rare in bike-shop bicycles
(as opposed to discount store bikes), to the point where it’s sometimes hard
to get the axle nuts. So I hope there is not an engineering reason not to
switch to this type of hub, as long as it offers the same ability to hold
the cranks tight, and not break between the crank and bearing.
“I was burning his dinner when I was 17, and now I’m still burning it when
I’m 52.” – Brett Bymaster’s mom Rita, at Brett’s wedding reception on July
13, talking about how she met her husband
In article <jagur.a09gb@timelimit.unicyclist.com>,
jagur <jagur.a09gb@timelimit.unicyclist.com> wrote:
)
)John Foss wrote:
)> *
)> I question the strength of internally threaded hub/axles. How can they
)> be
)> stronger if they have a hole through them*surface area,thats how.
)
)take two steel bars of equal lenth,one hollow,one not hollow.then see
)for your self which one is easier to bend over your knee.
)
)maybe someone with more education than me can put better words to this
)fact.i dont know the science behind this.i just know its true.
You can’t make steel stronger simply by removing material. A solid
steel bar of a certain diameter will be harder to bend over your knee
than a hollow steel bar of the same diameter. But if you take the
same amount of steel and make into a tube with greater diameter, it
will be stronger than the bar.
Using a drilled taper on a crank is not analagous to a using a tube
instead of a bar; you’re only removing material from the solid taper,
so it can only get weaker. However, I doubt it’s a problem. First of
all, the taper will get some of its strength back when you screw a
bolt into it, and second, I think it will still be much stronger than
the other parts of the system. I’ve never heard of a taper breaking
in the drilled section, while I’ve personally broken three bike frames
at the bottom bracket, not to mention a Phil Wood hub and a couple of
pedal axles. We also know a lot about crank breakage.
-Tom
I chose to make the axles with outy threads because I wanted them to be as strong as possible. I reasoned that since I couldn’t make the diameter any larger than 3/4", I had to maximize the cross sectional area at the place where I thought the axle was most likely to break - just inboard of the crank. The hole I would have to drill for inny threads would have been deep enough to end about where I thought the axle would break, thus decreasing the cross sectional area right where it’s most needed.
Making outy threads one at a time on a lathe is much more difficult than drilling and tapping inny threads, but it’s kind of fun! However, the very first threaded end I made turned out bad so that particular axle ended up on my personal MUni since I knew that it was likely to strip out eventually.
And it did. With the axle laced up to a rim, I cut the outy threads off and drilled and tapped inny threads. To date none the outy or the one inny threaded axles have broken or twisted that I know of.
I think the reason that cheap axles have outy threads is because of the manufacturing process; With heat and pressure the axle is formed, or forged, to it’s final shape and dimensions. The outy threads are simply part of the forging process. I invision a giant hellish red hot machine belching out forged axles with completely formed outy threads by the hundreds per hour … or maybe not!
Anyway … I don’t think outy threads have to mean cheap or weak. Just look at the Suzue hub - it’s pretty cheap but it’s not weak. Likewise, an axle with inny threads might be more expensive because of the cost of the additional manufacturing steps to drill and tap each end but weaker due to the reduced cross sectional area.
>The standard is to use
>fine thread which is inherently not as strong but it can be made so by
>the increased length.
I think you will know this, Harper, but there is a limit to increasing
strength by increasing length of thread. This is because of the
elastic properties of the material. The lower k is, the fewer threads
actually contribute to taking the load.
