The Park crank puller will work fine if you use the right end for the axle you’re trying to remove the cranks from.
Thanks to all the great help on this thread, I’m back up and rolling again.
Extra kudos to Siddhartha_Valmont and Goudurix for getting me a replacement hub so quickly. I laced the wheel 3-cross, then realized that the spokes were way too long, so I unlaced it and re-laced it 4-cross and now I think it’s dialed.
Got it mostly true and round and built it all back up.
The spokes on one section of the wheel are super tight, though. The wheel was a bit egg shaped so I kept tightening one side and loosening the other to make it a bit more round.
Do I need to worry about overtightening spokes on a 48h hub / rim? Seems to me like there should be a relatively even distribution of tension given the number of spokes but would love any advice.
Edit: The spokes near the rim label are crazy tight - I basically can’t get them any tighter with a spoke wrench and all of the spokes basically have almost no flex / give. I couldn’t get my spoke tension meter on to the spokes since they’re so small – the meter won’t fit.
Thanks again everybody!
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All the spokes should be about the same tension. If some are too tight, loosen them a little and just keep working with it to get then all the same and have the wheel running true. If it is egg shaped, loosen the ones that are too short before tightening the ones that are too long.