Qu-ax 26 Muni minimum inseam

Hi everybody. I am new to unicycling, I started learning 2 weeks ago averaging an hour a day and I am already free mounting with a success rate of 25% :sunglasses: I can also turn right and left but it’s mostly easier for me to turn right than left ( maybe it has something to do with the dominant leg idea ??? )
I decided for my second unicycle already, I ordered a 36 because I was mostly going to do work commutes and back but when I went semi off-road with my 20" this one time in the park, I found it lots of fun and full of Challenges :smiley:
I called the dealer and asked him to switch the order for a Qu-ax 26" muni and he agreed :):slight_smile: and since Quax it’s a local product here in Germany I trusted it and it was cheap as well 223EUR including shipping.

While I was doing some photoshop I did some scale measurements on the uni photo to find out if my inseam 33-34" was going to be fine with it and I discovered that I would barely make it with the lowest seat post setting. Did I calculate it right? has anyone tried this unicycle with an inseam similar to mine and has it worked for him ?

http://www.einradladen.com/webshop/559mm-26-Zoll-Qu-ax-Muni says: minimum inseam length 79 cm (31")

http://www.unicycle.uk.com/unicycles/muni-24-29/26-qu-ax-muni-unicycle.html says standard seatpost: Minimum - 89cm (35"), cutdown seatpost: Minimum - 81cm (31.9")

So there’s no problem. Youl’ll just have to cut down the seatpost. Btw, if you order at municycle.com, they even offer to shorten the frame for you. But you don’t need this with the 26" Muni.

What crank length did you order?

I have about 80+ cm inseam length (also in etwa wie Du) and had no trouble riding my 26" Muni (Nimbus frame, quax-saddle) with 165mm cranks and there was still room enough to lower the seat further.
So i think you will have no problems with your order.

Have fun and enjoy (i’m sure you will)



I have a 33" inseam and am able to ride 29ers and 36ers with 150mm cranks with no problems…

I already bought it from another store :frowning: I guess shortening the frame is the only solution for this specific unicycle because I noticed that the seatpost has a triangular brace which will limit it’s downward travel. I’m also not a fan of cutting frames as well also I have done similar stuff before. I think the only way I’ll know is by trying it when it arrives.

I am not sure, I ordered it with standard equipment which means I’ll probably get 145 quax cranks

That’s bringing my spirit up already :smiley: I was already thinking I am a hopeless case when it’d come to bigger wheel upgrades

Just change the Seatpost!
Take one without the gusset
Standard Seatpost (less stiff)
Aluminum Seatpost (less stiff)
Kris Holm Seatpost (stiff and light)
Kris Holm Adjustable Seatpost (stiff, light and adjustable)

Stilkus, you’re the same size as me and I have the Qu-Ax (Series) 26er. I’m tall compared to the average but I haven’t bought a single unicycle that I haven’t had to cut the seatpost down on…it’s quite normal.
Measure up well before you cut and, if in doubt, just cut a bit off to start with and then a little more if needed. Only takes a minute or two with a big hacksaw…recommend a file to smooth off the edges after you cut.
You’re going to love the Qu-Ax 26er once you build up your confidence…it’s great for trails and I’m slowly building the skills/confidence to attack more extreme terrain. You’ve chosen well… :slight_smile:


PS: Mine came with 150mm cranks…

Thanks a lot, you saved me a lot of searching time. For now I guess I’ll swap the seatpost that’s already in my 20" trainer " Lidl B-square " to the new muni and experiment from there :slight_smile:

I tried to cut pipes with a hacksaw before and it took ages and the result is always looking not professional :slight_smile: . I guess for this time I’m getting a pipe cutter for a change. As for the 26 decision it came actually from motorcycles, I used to ride sport bikes for speed but every time I tried an off-road bike It never had the speed thrill but it was always fun knowing that the off-road terrain is always new and changing unlike paved roads so I decided not to miss on off-roading this time and live with the 26 instead of the 36 :smiley: I just hope to build the required skills really fast cause I’m not the patient type of person

It arrived

It has arrived earlier today and for sure I tried it :D:D . The inseam wasn’t the biggest problem but I am sure now that 33" inseam is the lowest this unicycle can go without shortening the seat post and I attached a picture showing the clearance between the seat post and the tire and by measuring it I found 5mm (0.2in) to be the separation at this point. I am going to shorten the post in the future because I don’t feel safe driving like this.

The driving experience is just AMAZING, I feel like I am on top of the world :stuck_out_tongue: I can see the streets better now and for my surprise it wasn’t that difficult at all. I only felt scared after the first mount because of the height, otherwise the controls and balance are almost the same and I still have my body twisted to the left side just like with my 20". I don’t feel the road irregularities that much anymore.

I tried freemounting with it and I succeeded from the first time also I was never good in freemounting the 20" ( success rate 10%) but I am sure I was able to mount for 2 reasons 1.beginners luck 2.I was excited.

The quality of the unicycle is overall good but there is a remark though, the crank-to-frame clearance isn’t the same on both sides and it’s visible by eye :frowning: and the box of the uni had MADE IN TAIWAN written in bold also I thought it is a german product and the taiwan part is what steered me away from the nimbus already but It’s cheaper than the nimbus anyways so I don’t care, I’ll just have fun and when something goes wrong I’ll replace it with KH :wink:


Congrats! :slight_smile:

Nearly all frames (unicycle as well as bicycle, lowcost as well as high-end) are made in Taiwan. Taiwan has been the worlds leader in frame production for many years. I would wonder if KH frames are not produced there. Qu-Ax has very good quality and one of the best cost-performance ratios.
As it comes to crank clearace I would ask you to test, if one of your bearings is loose on the axle. This is a problem that sometimes appears. If it is loose you’ll have to use spacers.

Have fun!

So after cutting my first seat post and it not being completely square when I came to do the next one I tried a pipe cutter. The seat post in the Qu-Ax is alloy if I remember correctly and therefore reasonably thick. You may struggle with a normal pipe cutter. I ended up having to finish the job with a hacksaw.
I always finish the cut edge off with a fine file to make sure it slides in the frame smoothly and, to be honest, you could make a right pigs ear out of the cut and no one would be any the wiser as you can’t see the end of the seat post once it’s in the frame anyway :roll_eyes:


Agree with that, with the pipe cutter I have at least.

I thought the the same thing. No one will see it when it’s back in the frame. However I have been using one of these to guide the saw blade and keep the cut square–which helps my peace of mind, because I’ll know:

Yes, and file it nicely after cutting for better sleep after ride :roll_eyes:

For sure. Uni Lateral had already mentioned it, but yes I always clean up with a file after cutting. The post slides into the frame more easily, and it also prevents nasty unexpected finger cuts later on.

But do you take your seatpost to bed with you? :smiley:

No, not the seatpost :stuck_out_tongue:
But if I know that something done not perfect - my conscience together with my brain will organize sleepless night for me. I would say - You cannot see it but I know that it is there and not neat! :smiley:

Sounds like you nailed a common aspect of unicyclists here… we’re not obsessed, we’re details oriented! :smiley:

As already mentioned by others, frames made in taiwan is quite normal, the uni itself is a german product (most of it’s “value” created in germany).

Regarding crank clearence, check your bearings. There have been several threads about this issue with qu-ax unicycles not using spacers.

Cut your seatpost, i used a dremel to do it, file it, and everything will be fine.

Body twisting can be because of incorrect seat height (maybe higher is better in the beginning).

And, welcome to “bigger wheels”, now on to a 36" !



well, that’s actually true :slight_smile: I even decided for a yellow pipe cutter to match the unicycle :stuck_out_tongue:
I attached some of the process pictures. The pipe cutter is a Rems Cu-INOX 3-35mm which cost about 31 eur inclusive shipping. The device feels like Snap-on quality but cheaper for sure.

the crank clearance turned out to be a problem with the crank itself in the area where it meets the hub, the crank teeth which should fit the isis teeth of the hub aren’t 100% symmetric. I don’t know if those cranks are cnc milled or casted but it looks like a defect to me which also caused this specific crank to come loose yesterday and that’s how I discovered it the imperfection when the pedal came out, but I just reattached it with some generous quantities of loctite and did a 9km drive afterwards and nothing came loose again :slight_smile:

I tried different seat heights yesterday along the 9km drive and the body twisting seemed to come and go, I guess it has something to do with me being tired or maybe because when I freemount I don’t always end up centered on the seat although I do some minor adjustments when I start rolling but maybe it isn’t enough. I think only time will tell what my mistakes were.

I feel the 36er upgrade will come very soon because I already like sitting so high and pedal less for distance travel :slight_smile: