Q on the subtleties of freemounting

Yeah - what I’m busy trying to nail at the moment. Also how you ride away from a side mount which I can nail most of the time, and am using to try and sort out that bit of my kick-up as it’s where I’m mostly failing now. I actually hardly ever roll-back mount, side mount a lot more but mostly static mount (kind of - I tend to use a very slight forwards roll which allows you to put just a tiny amount of weight on the back pedal).

I also first learned to mount using a tyre grab - though not sure I could do that any more - and that was actually on a 20. Managed to move on to a static fairly quickly though. One of the exercises which helped me was I think from a video by Unigeezer - set up a block to jump up to, put the foot which is going on the back pedal in the air to the side of the block and jump up to the block with the other foot whilst keeping the in the air foot still. Much of the principles involved in a static mount, but no unicycle to think about.

In the UniGeezer 36" mounting video, the technique of jumping onto the block…takes about 1/3 second. I have practiced this technique before. The problem I have with it is: it is done quickly and may result in improper foot placement on the second pedal, which could result in a bad fall.

Contrast the above method with a very slow static mount. Near the end of UniGeezer’s tutorial, he is pictured mounting the 36" a number of times. Those mounts lasted longer, in time duration, than the 1/3 second demonstration with the paper plate.

I think everybody learning to static mount should practice UniGeezer’s technique. However, it seems like a “bridge” technique, rather than a real reflection of how static mounting is performed. Jumping onto the second pedal is a rather abrupt technique. As the rider learns to apply downward force on the seat, they will be able to slow down the static mount and make it safer and smoother.

Maybe a car backs up into your lane out of no where. Maybe you turn a blind corner and see a biker zooming towards you. These situations will help you enter the world of idling. I ride through college campus and face situations where I need idling or one back pedal all the time. Seeing these situations out in the real field will help you gauge where you are at in your idling journey. If you come across a time where you wish you knew how to idle (waiting for stop light), you should go to your practice grounds and trial and error for an hour or two. It will come naturally with time as all similar things do.

On mounting, static mounts are the most useful. I learned with a roll back and now only use it to spice things up when I am on flat lands. As for the physics of jumping up without applying pressure to the pedals, you just have to find the sweet spot where you mount and are sitting up there just waiting to learn forward and go. After a while, you won’t have to think about how much you push off with your grounded foot, you just know how to get on the uni without falling backwards or forwards. That’s a lot of rambling but I feel like I can relate because I just had to relearn this essentially to adjust to my 36er.

I end up with bad foot placement fairly often from static-mounting, I tend to just adjust as I’m riding. A bit scary when you’re in the middle of a main road setting off from a traffic light, but it’s easy enough once you’ve done it enough.

Holy Shiite! Just back from a very successful morning practice session, and I’m still high from the excitement of having learned a great new skill!

I covered myself in protective gear, and after a lot of “psyching myself up,” I really WENT FOR IT. I landed Static Mount after Static Mount, only missing 1 of about 40 attempts. (I got carried away, attempting it over and over, because I was so stoked with my repeated success!) Nothing but net! Can’t miss! It’s even more reliable than my Tire Grab “cheat.” I should’ve tried this last year, after learning to ride and before the snow began falling.

What worked? Three things, I think: learning to ride last year with the 2X4 behind the wheel, as it turned out, was also good Static Mount practice - I’m using the same motions really, but without the block of wood as a safety net; using the directional forces suggested in UniMyra’s video in another thread; and lastly, giving the wheel a bit of a forward roll while making my hop, to counteract any notion the wheel gets about wanting to roll back on me. ; )

Thanks for the help, everyone. I guess I just needed an encouraging push. I’m all set with Static Mounts; now it’s on to idling!

1 Like

Idling

You can definitely learn idling on a 24", but I think it’d be easier on a 20".

I started learning to idle holding onto a fence. The problem with that method was that it inhibited the wheel from pivoting. When you’re learning to idle, you have to let the wheel go left and right in a crazy, uncontrollable way. Later on you will learn to control it.

Probably my biggest breakthrough, regarding learning to idle, was when I rode forward,stopped suddenly into a momentary still-stand, pedaled back a half revolution, then rode forward. I had to practice that a ton to get it the first time.

Something which is unnatural about idling to the sensibilities of beginners: You have to get the unicycle in front of your center of mass, prior to the backwards pedaling. Beginners like to focus on keeping their mass “in front” of the unicycle, in order to keep from falling backward. So, your chances of falling backward increase while learning to idle, which is another reason I suggest learning on a 20". FYI, I never personally had a bad fall learning to idle; I’m not trying to scare you.

I am okay at idling, which means, with focus, I can idle 100+ times on either foot. However, I have not practiced idling enough to be able to “do it in my sleep”. My arms are still too involved in idling…for me to think about juggling or playing the guitar while idling. So, from a performer’s standpoint, there’s a huge difference between being okay and being truly good at idling.

Keep us posted on your continuing successes, GeddyRulz!

Very nice! It’s really not a hard skill once you are willing to put in some effort. :slight_smile:

Idling might take a little more time but it’s totally achievable.

The static mount only came to me after learning several other mounts. What did it, which I never saw on this forum, was putting the near pedal in a position significantly above horizontal- call it 10:00. That way, when I jump and my other foot comes down on the other pedal at 4:00, I start rolling forward automatically. I can only do this on a 20, though, and only on one side. On anything larger, I am unfortunately stuck with a roll-back mount, which gets difficult if I borrow a 36.

As a beginner, I saw people mounting this way on videos. It made no sense to me, and it seemed dangerous. Later on, however, I started doing it. I wouldn’t necessarily recommend to beginners that they try mounting this way. One has to be more in control of the isometric forces of static mounting…in order to pull it off. Mounting in this way, as you said, seems to more effectively launch you into forward riding.

Partly as a result of the discussion on this thread, today I managed 2 static mounts for the first time ever on a large (29") uni.

It can be surprisingly helpful to go back and discuss the basics now and then. Now I’ll have to see if I can manage the SIF mount that you mention, or that crazy one-footed stillstand. I have been able to idle on either foot for about 18 months, and learned to ride on one foot about a year ago, but going from the former to the latter, according to John Foss, is a much more advanced skill. Maybe it’s time to give it a shot…

Let me understand, going from one-footed idling to one-footed riding is supposed to be harder? Just to clarify, when I one-foot idle, it is with the other foot on the crown. Having a foot out in the air seems impossibly difficult to me. And when I transition from one-footed idling to riding forward one-footed, my foot stays on the crown. That is much easier, to my way of thinking, than riding one-footed with the other foot dangling in the air. Also, I consider it easier to start with no foot on a pedal, rather than removing it from the pedal. I guess that, for all of us, the easiest way is the way we learned.

Let me describe the technique I’ve been using: I grab the seat handle with one hand. I place the opposite foot on the pedal at the 3:00/9:00 position. I try to align my sit bones with the very back of the seat; I find it helpful to be further back on the seat for this. I mount, placing my second foot on the crown. I find it helpful to stand on the one pedal and the crown closer to the toes; that, along with sitting on the back of the seat, helps keep my mass further back, so it can be shifted forward during the dead parts of the pedaling cycle. The hand which is on the same side as the pedaling foot flails in the air to keep balance. The opposite hand, holding the seat, and its corresponding foot, between the two of them, act as a rigid column, along which small changes in the pitch of the unicycle are created. There is also a relationship between the hand on the handle and the sit bones on the back of the seat. The sit bones are pulling the seat back, and the hand on the handle is pulling the seat forward. Between the sit bones, the hand on the seat and the foot on the crown, there’s a lot of stability, and the ability to make adjustments to the pitch of the unicycle. Anyway, I idle one-footed until my idle has straightened itself out, and until I feel all the points of connection with the unicycle are sharing my weight, then I ride forward out of the foot-idle. Describing what happens exactly at this point, is tricky, and I am not consistent enough to be able to describe the specifics. Sometimes I ride a few revolutions, other times I ride a single revolution, transitioning back into the one-footed idle and starting the process over again. More times than not, the unicycle ends up on the ground. I practice this on some hard-packed dirt, and on a slight downhill.

Sorry for the long-winded explanation. I consider this “easier” because I have more points of control than someone with a foot flopping out in air. This process has been pretty tedious, involving practicing it hundreds of times. My progress is slow but steady. It feels a little bit like starting over, except that I think I’ve got way more concept, now.

In closing, anybody who can idle but doesn’t know how to one-foot idle…needs to know that one-footed idling is 5 times easier to learn than regular idling, particularly if you do it the quasi-cheater way which I described above, with the foot on the crown. Maybe one day I’ll learn to one foot idle, foot out; it currently seems impossible.

The method I described also seems more suitable for a middle-aged guy who doesn’t feel like learning by falling on his rear.

Falling on the ground has actually never been a problem in my one-footed “work.” 99% of it so far has involved always pressing my non-pedaling foot firmly against the fork, and 99% of my one-footed rides end in a UPD, but never a fall.

One strange thing about one-footed riding has been the ease with which I lose ground. In December, I once rode 25 revolutions on one foot, and had many other rides that approached that number, but nowadays I’m lucky to get 10 revs. With other tricks, it seems that once I learn them, they are more or less here to stay, but not this one.

I’m continuing to successfully use my newly acquired Static Mount; the “Tire Grab” is dead. I’m giving the wheel a slight roll forward as I mount, as I indicated above, to counteract any ideas the tire might get about rolling back on me. I’ve also been mounting QUICKLY, before the pedals/wheel have a chance to do this, but I’ve noticed on several of my recent mounts that the pedals/wheel aren’t moving at all… so I’m probably getting better at the mount and it’s become truly “static.” Maybe I can calm down and mount more slowly; there appears to be plenty of time.

I want to find some time to work on idling in a concerted way. I’ve been watching videos of people idling and noticed what elpueblo said above – that you allow the wheel to come forward of your body (in a way you’re “leaning back”!) before you rock the pedals/wheel backwards. That should be alarming to my senses – I don’t want to fall backwards off the unicycle! But I’m learning anything and everything is possible with practice, so I’ll get there.

To learn idling, just interrupt your forward rides by stopping your pedals at 3:00 and 9:00, then, little by little, try to turn these stops into backpedaling- first just 1/8th of a revolution, then more and more.

Some people learn to rear dismount when they first start riding. I didn’t, but once I started trying to idle, it worked out immediately.

I was dismounting to the rear (out of preference) way, way before I learned to idle. Meanwhile I’ve now been capable of idling for ages (~2 years?) and can also idle a big wheel - though not very well, and should probably practice more - but only just learning to ride backwards. Have only recently managed to get my head around the sustained leaning back - have also been able to “super-idle” (1.5 revs back, then forwards again) for ages, but doing that you only momentarily lean back.

Hopefully you guys will get these things quicker by the simple method of practicing more than me!

I learned to ride backwards almost immediately after I learned to idle. As I got more comfortable idling, I idled 1/2 rotation, from the 3/9 to the 9/3 position. Once the pedals are horizontal, it only takes a bit more impulse to continue riding backwards a full revolution. So, my advice to anyone who idles but doesn’t ride backwards is: just focus on opening up your idle to where it approaches a horizontal still stand at either end. At that point you’ll be primed for riding backwards. The first idling and backward riding I did was on a 26" muni. That was rough, and falling backwards was pretty intense. Luckily, I have baseball diamonds in my neighborhood; falling and sliding a bit is much preferable to falling on the street. After struggling on idling and riding backwards with the 26", I bought a cheap 20" and those techniques got way easier.

Just learned to mount SIF thanks to this thread! It wasn’t hard to do because I SIF hop all the time, but sometimes what you can learn quickly and easily will help get you ready for more difficult tricks, so suggestions can sometimes be very helpful.

Mounting SIF helped me learn how to forward-jump SIF. Using the 6:00/12:00 starting positions, I was able to start out in a crouched down position or with my abdomen on the seat. I would then start riding in the direction of a curb, still crouched down. As I approached the curb, I started rising up in anticipation of the forward-moving jump. This exercise allowed me to slow down the act of springing up for a jump. I learned a while back that I suck at jumping, and to remedy this, I decided that I would have to self consciously crouch down before jumping. I’m not doing a great job increasing the height of my forward SIF jumps, but I’m finding that the same jumps take much less effort than they once did.

Yeah, forward jumps are strange. They sometimes happen unintentionally when I’m approaching a set of stairs that I want to hop up. It would be nice to do them more consciously.

I’m wondering if any of you have more insights after a few years. I started riding 6 months ago, and now I can static mount 90% of the time on a 24" and 29", but I’m looking to perfect my static mounts.

In the discussion above, there are two types of static mounts: fast and slow. Feel free to correct me as I’m still figuring this all out myself.

Fast Static Mount
@UniGeezer’s method of using paper plates promotes zero pressure on the non-jumping foot. So in practice, there’s only a split second you can mount. (I won’t be surprised that UniGeezer can transition between the two types, but if you follow his advice–as I did–you’ll get the fast static mount, not the slow one.)

Slow Static Mount
@UniMyra 's video focuses on a balancing pressure between saddle and non-jumping foot. In practice, if you can one-foot still-stand, you can take a few seconds (or a few minutes) to put the other foot down.

I can only do the fast static mount with no hands, but because of the split second reaction you need, it requires a lot of mental energy and preparation. Moreover, foot placement is all over the place; I can adjust my foot position afterwards, but that’s not always possible on rough terrain.

Tomorrow I’ll start practicing a one-foot still-stand to get to the slow static mount. I’m not sure stillstand is the right thing to do at my level (practicing hops and idle), so I’m keen to hear your thoughts on perfecting the static mount.