Profiles...Worth the $$$?

Ok first off. I want this thread to have valid opinions only…If you havent ridden Profiles for at least 6 months solid then dont bother replying because theres no way you ve had a chacne to really test them.

Ok now for the real questions. I really want to get a Profile wheelset and use my Old KH setup as a backup wheel. So ive got a few questions a need to ask.

  1. Ive heard that Profiles are prone to creaking and sqealing under even minimal use. Is there any truth to the rumour?

  2. I kno that they must be cleaned and maintained regularly. How often should i do it and what is involved?

  3. Have you ever bent or twisted your Hub/cranks? If so how did you do it?

  4. Is it really worth the $560 for a new wheelset for a quickly advancing Trials rider? Or is it going to be a purchase i will quickly regret?

Thanks for your time.

-Phil.

It seems odd that you wont let me reply or dont want to hear my opinions even though I have extremely valid points. I have been around for a bit and I have had experiance with some very hard riders.

Meh.

Mike

Profiles always creak. If you maintain them regularly (taking them apart, degreasing and applying anti-seize), they creak less, but they still creak. It’s annoying, both the creaking and the having to mess with them. Also, the older models had terrible problems with keyway slop; some have said that they’ve made changes to address the issue, but it’s quite annoying and not covered by warranty.

I don’t see any real benefit to a Profile setup over one of the solid cheaper splined setups.

I’ve been riding Profiles for 3 years, KH for one.

Sorry if this sounds rude…But i really wanted people with extensive personal experience only…I kno that there are a hundred people on this forum who could say"Oh well my buddy said this" or " I heard this" But i want completely factual straight from the horses mouth data wether for or against Profiles.

I never washed mine adn they only make a sounds for like 1 hour… I bent my cranks once and I did NOT get the warenty to replace them.

I have almost 6 years experince with the same profile set.

  1. my cranks creaked after a few months of riding, I took the cranks off, re-greased the the axle and the only time they ever creak is when they are reminding me to tighten the axle bolts, problem solved.

  2. :thinking: i don’t know why people think that. I havn’t touched my cranks in years.

  3. i’ve twisted my cranks and my axle, and i have a little slop. came from a bad landing on an over head drop (flywheel drop in defect, not the one you saw). I think that years of abuse stressed the steel till they just bent on a poorly landed drop. In the past I had landed an 8 foot drop onto hard pack dirt, with horrable form and no rollout, weighing over 230lbs at the time. I rode away with my cranks as strait as the day i took em out of the box.

  4. That said, save your money. Even though you won’t regret the purchase, (a lifetime warrenty does amazing things for your confidence). wait till you bend up your kh cranks, buy the hub set and a set of spokes. lace up to your exhisting rim.

profile sets are only expensive at first. If you are going big, you’ll end up spending more money replacing parts on anything else.

This hits it home. You go big, you will break stuff. End of story.

Note that the Profile warranty is only good for broken spindles and cranks, not bent.

So if i get em and they bend ill just make em eat shit tilll they snap

I have only been riding profiles for ah…maybe a month now, and the creaking thing is BS. They dont creak at all, just keep them lubed up and in good working condition.

The only problem with profiles that i see now that i have them is taking cranks on and off. They are very stubborn at times, especially when u dont have a puller to get them off properly. It takes many hammer blows to get them on aswell.

Overall they are not bad. They have a life time warrenty so u can pretty muck keep a profile hub and cranks… for life! I like them over all and am happy with them. Most things about them are exaggerated.

Virtually everyone in the Santa Barbara Muni Club rides Profile because they’re the only ones (for us) that last. When we all switched over to KH alum. 24 inch Munis (nearly two years ago now), we went with the KH hub–but all the crank arms bent in no time and we went back to the Profiles (which most of us already had). But no Muni part (in our experience) is good for more than about two years, not if you’re riding hard and are often on rocks. I think it’s called metal fatique . . . Hans is, I think, the only person to have so far busted a KH alum. frame. The KH rigs are almost there.

JL

I have heard KH cranks creak too, so you can’t win. :wink:

Profile cranks shouldn’t creak if they are properly maintained. Some of the older Profile cranks seemed to have a creaking problem, but the new ones shouldn’t (I suspect the keyways were actually the source of the creaking on the old ones). I have never had a creaking problem with my Profile cranks. I also lather them up with lots of anti-seize.

Maintenance needs depend on the conditions your ride in. If it’s a muni that gets ridden in wet conditions you are going to have to overhaul the cranks more often. If it’s a trials uni that doesn’t get ridden through water or out in the rain it will be able to go longer between overhauls.

I replace the bearings on my muni once per year. It’s the winter time riding in the wet that kills the bearings. I regrease the Profile cranks when I replace the bearings. I’ll also regrease the Profile cranks a couple other times during the year. But that’s for a muni that gets ridden in the dirt.

Maintenance is easy. Lots of anti-seize. Put anti-seize anywhere there is metal to metal contact. I put anti-seize between the individual spacers, on the bolt threads, on the bolt shoulder and under the bolt head, on the concave washer that goes under the bolt, on the splines, everywhere and everywhere there is metal to metal contact. Put it all back together. Tighten it up. Ride it around and then tighten it up one more time. Then it’s good. No creaking. Everything is tight.

Same would apply to a KH hub.

The complete wheelsets at UDC are a bit on the expensive side for the wheel building. If you know a good local shop that does good wheel builds you can save some money by having the wheel built yourself. A Profile hub with a KH rim would be a nice wheel.

Something I find interesting is that the Profile cranks are $99 versus $125 for the KH cranks. It’s cheaper to replace a bent Profile crank than a KH crank.

I wouldn’t rely on the Profile warranty too much. It’s nice that it’s there, but there is a point where you just have to suck it up and realize that things are going to break and you’re going to need to pay to replace them.

The advantage for KH cranks is that you can get them in 127mm and 140mm. The shortest Profile cranks you can get are 150mm. If you want the shorter lengths you have to go KH or cut down the Profile cranks and reweld them (which voids any warranty).

What’s the point of getting new stuff if there isn’t anything wrong with the setup you have now? Unless you want longer cranks or more q factor…

Im starting to go alot bigger with my drops and gaps… NA di am no means a small guy. I just dont want to have a situation where i am left without a uni cuz i was stupid or cuz i pushed it to far.

You currently have a KH right?
Buy a backup set of cranks and keep them on hand. If you do manage to bend a set of cranks you’ll have replacements right there and won’t have to have any down time while waiting for UDC to ship you new cranks.

On the left, we have team Profile. For the most part, they take care of their equipment and it takes care of them…

On the right, we have Tom Holub. Tom hates Profile with a passion. Tom also appears to hate maintenance. Perhaps Tom is cranky 'cause he hasn’t realized that keeping good gear requires taking good care of it.

smellslike.jpg

I have Gen 1 KH…I guess i could just buld up another KH wheel to have on hand…It wouldnt cost as much…Ill have to decide when ive got the money all together for it. Thanks all you guys for your opinions.

An interesting note is that, like many of us, I broke in on an old Steel KH 24. The crank arms had no Q factor and I never heard of any of them ever bending or breaking. The Q factor (on Profiles and the newer KH’s) places an oblique torque on the weld at the axle, which lamost certainly causes crank breakage. But once you go Q there’s no going back.

JL

I don’t hate Profile with a passion. I have ridden Profile more than any other hub (well, except my Suzue on my 24" freestyle). At the time I bought my Profile setup, it was clearly the best available.

But, it creaks, no matter how many times I take it apart, degrease it and apply anti-seize. The bolts come loose, no matter how many times I Loctite and crank them down. (My funky-sized Allen key, required for Profile riders, is bent from torquing the bolts). My keyway slops; I just took the whole thing apart and epoxied the keyway, so maybe it’ll stay in there now, but that’s not the sign of a solid piece of equipment.

And I’m sure I maintain my unicycles at least as well as you do. Twerp.

145mm are the shortest u can buy

JC gave the best advice. Don’t bother with profiles, you don’t need them until you break what’s already out there.

I have almost the same story as Mike Clark, except I have only bent my right profile crank on my muni slightly… That’s after Kris Holm rode it for around a year, and me riding it for ~2 years of hard muni. Over the course of those 2 years, i bent 3 pedal spindles.

My keyway is a little loose. I’ll epoxy it or make myself a new hub eventually. My bolts never get loose.

Another plus is the chrome cranks. Chrome cranks will show far less damage from missed pedalgrabs, etc.