Profiles for MUni?

Hello all,

I am going to be buying a new MUni soon. I was wondering if everyone thinks that profiles are a necesity for doing MUni. I do lots of drops and i MUni quite often, my MUni will be used only for MUni, not trials. I had decided to get profiles but i wanted to know what everyone thinks of it. thanks.

I’ve been MUni’ing for a couple years now, i’ve done 3 foot drops, urban, snow MUni, a 24 hour race, hundreds of rides over 15km, all on a sub-suzue hub.

If you’ve never bent a crank or axle before, chances are you don’t need one. I haven’t. I weight 175 with gear

My muni has a suzue hub, and I do fine with it.
I would say if you got the extra dough to get the profiles, go for it

I think it really depends on what your planning to use your muni for, more specifically, are you planning on doing drops? if not, you might want kooka cranks with a suzue hub. this setup works very well if you are going to be doing 3’ers or less, they should hold up fine. it also will cost you about $130 less than a profile.

Besides just being stronger, one big advantage I see for the Profiles over square tapered cranks, is that the Profiles will not fall off during a ride. If reliability is important for you and you don’t want to deal with a crank possibly falling off in the middle of a ride then the Profiles (or other splined setup) start to look a lot better even if you don’t do 6 foot drops.

I really like knowing that my muni is bombproof solid. When I go out on a ride I like knowing that I’m not going to have to deal with petty mechanicals. The extra strength in the hub and cranks also give me more confidence to jump off things that I might not have if I had a standard hub. No need to baby the Profiles.

I think i’m gonna go with the profiles, I have been saving for a long while and I might as well. Thanks for all the tips/input.

That’s good. I think profiles are great, i snapped my suzue with kookas off a 5 footer, so that’s not much good, also the reliability thing is a big issue, profiles are sweet too!

-Ryan

What have people found to be the strongest cranks for Suzue hubs, especially in the 135-140mm size for 20" trials unis.

-Kris.

My friends and i have thouroghly explored this problem. We came up with the conclusion that the 140mm bicycle euro cranks were probably the best, we tried: Lasco (snapped), United (bent really bad, FAST), Monty (too high of leverage, and not enough crank on axle so they kept coming off). The Bicycle euros hold up okay if your gentle on them, and they d’ont snap-they bend because they’re steel. My friend bent a pair that were on his MUni, but they were 150s, and that was 5ft drop to flat, bad technique, repeated.
that’s about all i have to say…if you d’ont mind me asking, Kris, I thought you had profiles on all your unis… Why Are you concerned with suzue hubs?

Oh, and a side note, i broke my Suzue riding with KOOKA cranks, which i feel are the strongest four taper unicycle cranks.

-ryan

I do use profiles, but since the entry-level KH20 comes with a 4 square taper hub, I’d like to put the best possible crank arms on it.

-Kris

One other thing- what is the difference between Steel Lasco cranks and steel Bicycle Euro Cranks- are the Euros a lot stronger?

-Kris

A little bit back, i talked to Darren Bedford about Monty cranks, and he said that he might be griding them down to 140mm, and then grinding down the part that attaches to the Square taper (to adress the coming loose problems). I d’ont know what happpened to this idea, but if he fixed it, then these might be a good choice.

Also, you could grind down a pair of Kooka cranks and re-tap them (maybe norco would do it for you?) those are very strong, just too long (smallest is 165mm)

i d’ont think the lasco cranks come in steel. Out of the Euros and the alloy Lascos, the Euros are stronger, but you need to keep drops very smooth to not bend them.

Hope that helps,

-Ryan

Another good option i forgot to mention in my previous post is the new Dotek Cranks. I d’ont have any experience on these (got profiles before they came out) but they look good!

-Ryan

the problem with the lascos is that they snap leaving a sharp edge, which is quite dangerous as you can imagine. i wouldn’t even consider them on a freestyle unicycle, too unsafe.
bicycle euro cranks are better, although they bend farily easily, i’ve not heard of a snaped set, and i’ve turned a couple into spagetti. and one set destroyed the hub by not having enough contact with the taper( not as bad as the montys though, see below)

the dotek cranks are actualy cut down and re-threaded mtb cranks. if i had to have a trials uni with a suzue hub again i’d get these. but they probably won’t be available in quantity because they are cnc machined. i belive roger davis is the man responsible for these nice cranks.
they are reletavly new but they seem to have got a verry good reputation so far.

profile racing make a cnc machined square tapered mtb crank, and it may be posible to convince them to make shorter ones without a spider on the rh. but again cnc is going to mean loads of cash.

although the monty cranks are probably stronger, they (as has been said ) don’t make enough contact with the taper, which kills the axle verry quickly. and they cost lots of cash too.

the kookas are probably nearly as strong as the profile cromo cranks but don’t come in a short size.

actualy you’ve got a dificult choice, good luck.

p.s. are the splined hubs/cranks going to be available seperatly?

Kris,

I dont think (could be wrong) that the Lasco’s are steel they are an alloy that is crude at best. Their manufacturing prosses has some flaws in it and although ok for kids bikes and other non stressfull uni riders, but will fail in time with the stress of trials. I have heard of 2 breaks caused by this kind of failure. Including on my trials uni.

The Doltec cranks and the BE’s seem to be the best steel tapered cranks on the market in my opinion although I have yet to hear much about the doltec’s. I currently have some 125mm BE’s on my Trials uni. They are ok but too short for trials (my opinion once again)

As far as if profiles are needed for Muni if you know you are going to be riding really hard and doing drops of anything bigger than 3 feet. I would say that a splined hub is needed either the Onza, KH/Norco, or profile will all do.

Chex

i agree, 125 is too short for trials,
but then again it does make them a bit stronger. i loved the lenghth of 150 be cranks when i first got them but they didn’t last log without bending, so i got a profile hub.

beware the massive lever and fulcrum that archemedies promised to move the earth with, it will quickly bend your cranks

Are the bike euros better than the united? cause i think thats what i’m using now (127mm) and i can easily bend them

Back to the original question, no, you don’t need a Profile axle. Today there are three different splined unicycle axles available for unicycling, the DM, the Profile, and the ones on the Summit and new Kris Holm cycles.

Profiles might be the only ones available separately, though.

You will be better off with a splined setup, but you can still do plenty of riding with a Suzue hub or similar. They are just more likely to break eventually. My carbon MUni still has a Suzue hub. At the rate I ride it, it’ll never break! Poor thing.

All this talk about crank comparison is very useful. Most of my cranks are older types, some of which are no longer available. The old IDOL cranks from Miyatas were very good. I have a pair of 150mm IDOLs on my carbon MUni. I have 125’s on my Trials uni. Yes, they’re a bit short, and a bit bent, but otherwise they’re holding up well.